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^^^ This is the big problem....

I will recommend that you use the original ECU because it has good logic in it and a replacement harness is only about $600.

I don't know that I have ever seen that part sold separately from the grill itself-

It looks cold outside-

Or the throttle blades are open too much

The springs on your red Scrambler have been worked so much that you should feel like it has coil springs on it. 8-)

You can understand it but it takes quite a while.... The learning curve is pretty steep. :)

If I forgot to reconnect my swaybars, I'll roll my stuff over. When I was on leafs, my Jeep drove like a Trophy truck with the swaybar disconnected. I'd guess that your springs are a bit too stiff which is acting like a swaybar-

Buy a HpTuners interface so you can pull codes, see data, and make changes to the calibration.

Just have someone turn the steering wheel. That generally is enough to raise or lower the front end. If it's a long way off, just have your co-pilot hang out the door.

I don't believe that the FAST EFI has the capability to run an EGR or ignore the O2 readings while it is open and the smog pump can not inject air before the O2 sensor-

I have seen a few fuel senders lately that the resistance when checked during a float arm sweep are not linear and smooth at all. They will drop out or have dead spots. The best I can tell is the wiper arm does not make good contact thru out the sweep.

Sorry...I thought those were truck manifolds that you put an O2 bung in on the front leg....

You can not run that O2 sensor between two exhaust ports in that manifold. The exhaust gas reversion is going to really screw with it-

That is not a tap and die set. That is a thread chaser kit. What you have will not cut threads-

I figured that it was time to put the Jeep up on the lift to look for things that need attention. I almost feel bad for taking this out wheeling and driving it around for a couple of years now without working on it.....

I highly suggest running PTFE hose due to the ethanol eating the rubber hose from the inside out. Then you only have to build them one time instead of replacing the braided hose every 5 years.

It's not the cams that have manufacturing issues. The lack of zinc additive in the oil, improper break in procedures, or poor initial start up kill the lobes. We start up a new engine about 1 a week without issues.

You need to verify where they connected the switched ignition wire to. Out of the hundreds of systems I have either installed or tuned, I have not seen a unit indicating a wrong voltage. The indicated voltage has nothing to do with it being in the learning mode. If anything, the indicated...

This is what happens when you do not add oil to your rear axle and go out and run it. I'm sure that this pinion bearing and the housing in that area was somewhere between cherry red and translucent to melt the originally straight steel rollers to a diagonal.