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Brake line time now, lots of choices!! From top down: OEM sized NAPA lines Spare set of Rubicon Express extended lines InLine Tube extended lines Some O'Reilly's lines for another application Ended up using these lines from O'Reillys, about $130. Same lines from NAPA were close to $200, so...

Not too terrible, old front caliper brake fluid. Pulled each caliper off, left bleeder screws in, filled caliper up with brake parts cleaner, drained, repeated, clean calipers. That's all the piddling for tonight.

Piddled some tonight. Triple checked all five line connectors for tightness. The forward, vertical fitting is the PIA. It takes a 9/16" wrench, but when the valve is bolted to the frame rail you can not get wrench around the fitting. So, loosen valve, tighten fitting, rescue valve. Ran the...

I've been knocked out of commission the last few days with cold/flu/covid/sinus infection, will wrap this up once I'm better.

Pecking away at it. Fished the mounting plate behind the valve, loosely started valve mounting screws, started the clip bolts. Once the clip bolts were started I tightened up the valve mounting bolts, then the clip bolts. Those clip bolts are fiddly, leaving the valve/plate loose from the...

Put the original clips on the new master cylinder to proportioning valve lines: Dropped them down from above, threaded them into the proportioning valve. NOTE - I have kept the proportioning valve loose, NOT bolted to the frame. I just let these two lines run wild up top for now. I...

Used this hole to run the line through the frame rail on the passenger side. Line looks good under/behind the grill, bends and length look great here. Too bad it won't be seen here! So, four lines installed, three to go. Re-attached the front grill and fenders, happy with this progress...

Ended up removing the under engine tube brace to make routing the new line easier. Reference pictures for me. Routed the passenger wheel well end out first. Not too fiddly, not easy, meh. The bends and length here will work out perfectly. Line fits tight at the passenger front corner...

Got the passenger side front hard line installed tonight. Not as much as a PIA as I thought. Original line unclipped, fairly easy to pull it up and out the front. Quick reference picture for me, this brake line runs under the PS lines. Removed the front frame cover, grill body mount and...

Ok, time for the PIA passenger side front hard line. This little Phillips head screw can be fun to remove! Came out no problem. Two clips that hold this line to the frame, front cross member, under the radiator. I used a flat screw driver and hammer to pop the line upward and out of the...

And just for @bigwalton, not a tree, but close, @Bad Karma favorite Harbor Freight trailer/ mobile paint booth!!! Primed and painted the plate, because it just wouldn't be a Spankrjs project without painting something!! Back to the proportions valves last stuck fitting, bolt cutters to cut...

Close up of the wrench around the fitting, no bueno. Jumping to the other valve to master cylinder line, I need to remove this clip that holds it to the steel plate that the proportioning valve attaches to. Yep, that bolt head is fun to get to!! Hammer and punch will not work here to cut...

Pictures and narrative are going to bounce around some, got a pretty good amount of work completed and no collateral damage, so happy about that. Thought about how to cut the old brake lines in place, without throwing sparks around. Pretty tight area to work in, quick experiment, worked...

Can't remember exactly, but the factory used some brackets like that down low on the passenger side to route the "charging/starting" portion of the harness. There also are some brackets like that on the driver side, valve cover, over the intake/exhaust manifold to route the "feedback carburetor"...

Too nice a weekend to stay cooped up in garage underneath the Green Scrambler all weekend long!

Decided to swap out the two lines that run from the master cylinder down to the proportioning valve next. Next pictures are just reference shots for me. Lots of zip ties! I have swapped these lines out before, on my red Scrambler, when I swapped from manual brakes to power brakes...

Started at the rear axle and worked my way forward. Rear axle mounted lines were easy enough, and surprisingly the long line from the proportioning valve to the rear flex line was easy to change. Pretty good match. Wasn't even that bad snaking it behind my fuel injection plumbing back here...

So I could have just bled out the brakes and called this job finished, but nothing is ever that easy. When I was taking the brakes apart I noticed the fluid was pretty nasty. Partially my fault, I haven't flushed out or even messed with the brakes in quite a few years. The other issue, these...

Time to reassemble the drum brakes. Certain parts are specific to a certain side. One side components. Note to myself so I keep it straight. The self adjusters have a stamp on them below the removable end. The hardware kits come with two different length pins, CJ's use the shorter...

Repeat for the other side, finished. Quick note about the centering block used with the original two piece axles. In the picture below, you can see how far the Moser axle shaft splines into one of the differential side gears. Not a lot of splines showing past the end of the axle shaft...