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I've designed these trays so they bolt up anywhere a Blitz jerry can tray will go (same bolt pattern), and they also have a Rotopax bolt pattern on the back so they'll mount anywhere that's designed for a vertical Rotopax container.
I picked up to .50 in the photo for $4.00 at a...
An LJ tub is 15" longer than a CJ/YJ/TJ, so if that measurement is correct an LJ hard or soft top (or Safari Cab) is the right length. But an LJ is 9" shorter than a CJ-8, not 10", so there's some discrepancy. But the good news is you're really close to LJ length.
Thank you very much :).
I try to make my drawings a reasonable representation of reality... here's a photo of my LJ with a similar configuration, this was taken in Colorado in September.
By making my drawings fairly close to reality, I can see what something will look like before I go to...
I'll be there again this year. A bunch of things I designed are being shown there (in addition to Eric's Safari Cab :)) MORryde will be showing a lot of the hardware I've done for them, this is a draft of the catalog they plan to hand out in their booth, all of these products and more will be...
My perfect beach configuration would be to remove the doors and hard sides and put on roll-up soft sides instead. Keeps the sun off but still provides an open-air experience, and the hard roof provides a place for gear or a roof-top tent :)
An extended half cab is an interesting idea - it's pretty straightforward to make one in the Safari Cab molds. Here's one I did a few years ago on a friend's LJ.
Depending on how the tub has been lengthened, it might be possible to use a stock Scrambler bulkhead mounted behind the tub...
You could always put a Scrambler half cab on it, probably would need a custom bulkhead but that wouldn't be too hard to fabricate.
How long is it? Hmmm...
Terry,
Flexible paint/plastics paint isn't needed for a fiberglass hardtop. I'd prep the top by sanding it well to give the paint a good surface to adhere to. I also always wipe down the surface with lacquer thinner right before painting to ensure there's no grease, fingerprints, or other...
Recently I sewed a "covered wagon" top for my fiberglass military replica trailer:
I was swapping it off the trailer this morning because I need the trailer configured differently for another use today. I always wondered what the Retro would look like with a covered wagon top, so I set it in...
One other dimension you should check is the height of the sides you cut off the Postal. Here's a photo I took years ago of a Postal door in the rear door opening of the Safari Cab - the door is a little short to fit in the opening. The bottom of the drip rail is the correct height to fit the...
I see two ways to go about this:
Option 1. Narrow the entire roof. The complication this causes is that the side panels will need to be modified to angle in at the top the same amount the doors angle in. This requires taking a pie cut out of the rear corners so you don't have to angle the...
Since the CJ doors angle in towards the top, having a windshield frame that doesn't angle in will cause the doors not to mate properly with the windshield. The amount the windshield angles in towards the top is the same amount the doors angle in.
I'm working on some sketches to show a...
I have a recommendation for solving the difference between the windshield and the roof. I'll do some sketches for you, might not get to it until later tonight or tomorrow though.
The flip-out windows are from a Toyota FJ40. Years ago when I was first doing the LJ Safari Cab design, I ran across an FJ40 hardtop very cheap so I picked it up to study how it was constructed. I still had the Scrambler back then, so one day I compared the FJ windows to the World Cab (it must...
I did a thread about the door fillers many years ago: https://www.cj-8.com/forum/showthread.php?10056-Door-corner-fillers-for-Postal-tops&p=346063. That thread is about adapting standard round-corner CJ doors to a World Cab that requires square-corner doors, so the corner fillers you'll need...
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