- City
- Allen Park
- State
- MI
Congrats on getting back into a CJ. 
1982 "Vintage Red" CJ-7 Renegade
- Thread starter spankrjs
- Start date
- City
- North Dighton
- State
- MA
Many Thanks!!! Its been years, so I am very happy.Congrats on getting back into a CJ.
Chamba
Not obsessed: focused.
- City
- Vero Beach
- State
- FL
I wondered if this could be the 7 to which you were referring; the timing seemed uncanny. Sweet score! Glad it's gone to a great home.
Had to chuckle at the story of the driver.... sounds like the same fellow who took my last FJ40 to Connecticut...
..
Had to chuckle at the story of the driver.... sounds like the same fellow who took my last FJ40 to Connecticut...
..
- City
- Baton Rouge
- State
- La
Glad she made it safe! The rear view mirror should be in the center console. That seatbelt was figity but was catching if I have messed with it.View attachment 109788
View attachment 109789
Probably the worst-kept secret on the forum.Monday in MS, Thursday in MA, that's pretty quick. See below. For those playing along at home, that's 1,442 miles or about 22 hours straight of driving.
View attachment 109790
Showed up very late last night around 9PM EST, hard to really do any sort of transport inspection. Did the best I could. The driver flogged it pretty hard trying to start it. He didn't speak English, kept saying "From Ukraine, no English", so I wasn't able to communicate with him at all besides paying him and giving a thumbs up. The passenger door window was damaged in transport, all wrapped in pallet wrap and 1000 safety pins. Nothing keeps a door watertight like a bunch of little holes.
I will inspect more this weekend/next week. Looks like I will need to get a rearview mirror and a new seatbelt for the driver's side. Belt doesn't retract at all, and it will be tested at safety inspection. They also require a rearview mirror up here. Neither should be a big deal to address once I can get the parts. Small oil drip underneath this morning, will investigate that later too.
Extra parts in the Jeep from Tommy (JeepAddict) arrived undamaged (windshield frame, dash, extra doors, bikini top, and console) and are still wrapped in blankets.
Can't thank Tommy & Raymond (spankrjs) enough for everything they have done to get this deal done. It's been in the works for some time, but as always, the forum members here are like family and I never once had my doubts about anything. Trust is huge in deals like these.
For the record, this is my third Jeep CJ purchased solely due to, and from, this forum. That's my subtle hint at paid membership to keep it running.
Will do my best to keep the level of detail in the thread on the level that already exists.
- City
- Baton Rouge
- State
- La
That’s some serious transport time too!!
- City
- God's Country
- State
- AR
Glad the Jeep made it to you!
I've been watching this woman work on old squarebody pickup truck seatbelts for quite some time. She does AMAZING work bringing back original belts and mechanisms, but I'm not sure if she'd work on anything other than squarebody GM belts. Might be worth an ask though. I can't imagine the Jeep units being much different than GM setups at the time.
73-87 Chevy/GMC Truck Seatbelt Restorations
73-87 Chevy/GMC Truck Seatbelt Restorations. 4,712 likes · 100 talking about this. Specializes in Seatbelt Restorations. Single Cab Trucks 67-87. New Webbing required for Color Changes
www.facebook.com
If you're not on bookface, she's on the 73-87 forum under username TKCR
Restoring OEM Seatbelts - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network
Restoring OEM Seatbelts The 1973 - 1987 Chevrolet & GMC Squarebody Pickups Message Board
67-72chevytrucks.com
- City
- North Dighton
- State
- MA
Thanks wm69. I actually shipped the seatbelt to Safety Restore today to be fixed. If they can't fix it then I will chase down your lead. Many thanks!Glad the Jeep made it to you!
I've been watching this woman work on old squarebody pickup truck seatbelts for quite some time. She does AMAZING work bringing back original belts and mechanisms, but I'm not sure if she'd work on anything other than squarebody GM belts. Might be worth an ask though. I can't imagine the Jeep units being much different than GM setups at the time.
73-87 Chevy/GMC Truck Seatbelt Restorations
73-87 Chevy/GMC Truck Seatbelt Restorations. 4,712 likes · 100 talking about this. Specializes in Seatbelt Restorations. Single Cab Trucks 67-87. New Webbing required for Color Changes
If you're not on bookface, she's on the 73-87 forum under username TKCR
Restoring OEM Seatbelts - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network
Restoring OEM Seatbelts The 1973 - 1987 Chevrolet & GMC Squarebody Pickups Message Board67-72chevytrucks.com
- City
- North Dighton
- State
- MA
Got my seatbelt back from Safety Restore. Mailed on Tuesday and was back to me on Saturday. Belts works as it should now. Pretty quick service in my book. Got it mounted and ready to go. I have some small things to finish before getting it to inspection.
Last edited:
- City
- North Dighton
- State
- MA
Update time....
So I've been driving Vintage Red on and off this summer. I probably only have put a couple hundred miles on her. A noticeable issue was the "extra" fuel filter in advance of the fuel pump (Thank you Raymond for putting that on there to protect the pump) was consistently getting filled with rust. So much rust to the point the filter would clog and the Jeep would fall flat on its face, basically starved for fuel. Looked like a lot of cinnamon in there, well at least that's what I call it anyway. Change the filter, and boom she'd come back to life. Gas tank and sending unit were relatively new, so was confident rust was not coming from those items. Had to be the 41 year old original steel fuel lines. So, the first project this winter was to replace all the fuel lines. The CJ7 has three long fuel lines: Main Line (runs down the passenger's side frame and cuts across the rear cross member), Retun Line (down the driver's side frame), and Vent Line (down the driver's side frame). There are some metal lines in the engine compartment. One goes from the fuel pump towards the actual fuel filter and then the carburetor. That was almost new on this Jeep, so it wasn't getting replaced. There's also one metal line on the return side that goes from rubber fuel line at the fuel filter to a hard line and back to a rubber fuel line before connecting to the steel fuel return line. I couldn't find a good replacement for this, but I was sure to blow it out well with compressed air, no rust came out so happy for now that won't be an issue. It is short.
So I've been driving Vintage Red on and off this summer. I probably only have put a couple hundred miles on her. A noticeable issue was the "extra" fuel filter in advance of the fuel pump (Thank you Raymond for putting that on there to protect the pump) was consistently getting filled with rust. So much rust to the point the filter would clog and the Jeep would fall flat on its face, basically starved for fuel. Looked like a lot of cinnamon in there, well at least that's what I call it anyway. Change the filter, and boom she'd come back to life. Gas tank and sending unit were relatively new, so was confident rust was not coming from those items. Had to be the 41 year old original steel fuel lines. So, the first project this winter was to replace all the fuel lines. The CJ7 has three long fuel lines: Main Line (runs down the passenger's side frame and cuts across the rear cross member), Retun Line (down the driver's side frame), and Vent Line (down the driver's side frame). There are some metal lines in the engine compartment. One goes from the fuel pump towards the actual fuel filter and then the carburetor. That was almost new on this Jeep, so it wasn't getting replaced. There's also one metal line on the return side that goes from rubber fuel line at the fuel filter to a hard line and back to a rubber fuel line before connecting to the steel fuel return line. I couldn't find a good replacement for this, but I was sure to blow it out well with compressed air, no rust came out so happy for now that won't be an issue. It is short.
- City
- North Dighton
- State
- MA
I purchased the prebent lines from Inline Tube. They were the steel main, return, and vent lines. I opted not to get the stainless steel replacements as I heard they were very hard to bend, and I'm glad I opted for this route. I must first say that I do not believe that a CJ's fuel lines were ever intended to be replaced without removing the body tub. Tub off, this is a simple job. Tub on, this is a maddening job. I have avoided this job on other jeeps I've owned because I knew it would be a fight. Anyway, that's my two cents.
First, step was to locate and remove all the fuel line clips. Each got blasted with PB buster daily for a week or so before even attempting to turn a bolt. This was a southern jeep, oh boy I love southern jeeps. Just not dealing with cancerous rust and broken bolts is worth the cost of shipping and premium price. I did not break any bolts on this job. For reference, the picture below shows the clips or bolts that hold on all the fuel lines, working from front to back on each side (left to right in the picture). The driver's side clips really hold both the vent and return line, albeit in maddening and confusing ways.
First, step was to locate and remove all the fuel line clips. Each got blasted with PB buster daily for a week or so before even attempting to turn a bolt. This was a southern jeep, oh boy I love southern jeeps. Just not dealing with cancerous rust and broken bolts is worth the cost of shipping and premium price. I did not break any bolts on this job. For reference, the picture below shows the clips or bolts that hold on all the fuel lines, working from front to back on each side (left to right in the picture). The driver's side clips really hold both the vent and return line, albeit in maddening and confusing ways.
- City
- North Dighton
- State
- MA
I'm not sure I got pictures of every clip/bolt location, but I'm close. Here is the main line.
Skid plate looking back towards engine bay. There is a bolt and clip up by the fuel pump which is not pictured.
The passenger side looking back towards the gas tank. There are two here, one is hidden behind the axle vent tube.
What you can't see here is the line runs along the cross member and does a left-hand turn towards the tank when it meets the driver's side. It shares a clip (actually a nut and a wrap-around clip) pictured on the right with the brake line. Also, the slide clip (retainer clip) on that rear brake line will need to be removed so the fuel line can be snaked out behind the brake line. I had to pull the brake line forward and there was just enough flex. Otherwise, I'd have to remove the brake line and open up the brake system. Glad I didn't have to do that.
View looking up the body at driver's side near the gas tank. This top side cross-member bolt and clip will make you wish you never attempted this job. It holds a large metal clip that retains all three lines near the fuel tank. There is not enough clearance to get the bolt out with the body sitting on it, not to mention enough room for a wrench. I ended up having to loosen every body mount bolt until it was just barely threaded. I did this in order to maintain body alignment and hopefully, not have to fish for capture nuts later. Southern Jeep, all the mounts did free up, luckily. I ended up carefully jacking up the body on the driver's side rear, and got an extra inch or so to get my hands up in there and get to this bolt. It was a 1/16th of a turn at a time, but I eventually got it out. This is the reward for all that work.
That's the main line clips/fasteners.
Skid plate looking back towards engine bay. There is a bolt and clip up by the fuel pump which is not pictured.
The passenger side looking back towards the gas tank. There are two here, one is hidden behind the axle vent tube.
What you can't see here is the line runs along the cross member and does a left-hand turn towards the tank when it meets the driver's side. It shares a clip (actually a nut and a wrap-around clip) pictured on the right with the brake line. Also, the slide clip (retainer clip) on that rear brake line will need to be removed so the fuel line can be snaked out behind the brake line. I had to pull the brake line forward and there was just enough flex. Otherwise, I'd have to remove the brake line and open up the brake system. Glad I didn't have to do that.
View looking up the body at driver's side near the gas tank. This top side cross-member bolt and clip will make you wish you never attempted this job. It holds a large metal clip that retains all three lines near the fuel tank. There is not enough clearance to get the bolt out with the body sitting on it, not to mention enough room for a wrench. I ended up having to loosen every body mount bolt until it was just barely threaded. I did this in order to maintain body alignment and hopefully, not have to fish for capture nuts later. Southern Jeep, all the mounts did free up, luckily. I ended up carefully jacking up the body on the driver's side rear, and got an extra inch or so to get my hands up in there and get to this bolt. It was a 1/16th of a turn at a time, but I eventually got it out. This is the reward for all that work.
That's the main line clips/fasteners.
Attachments
Last edited:
- City
- North Dighton
- State
- MA
Vent and return line is a bit more straightforward, well because they are straight! This one I will work from back to front of the Jeep. Again, these two lines were captured by that turd of a cross-member bolt/clip removed for the main fuel line.
Then you have a bracket at the rear shock mount pictured above. There is another one further up across from the muffler not pictured.
This view is looking up at the exhaust hangar bracket. You can see the threads of the bolt holding another bracket like that found at the rear cross member. Again there is very little room to get into this location with the body on, and the bolt is threaded down. With the body mounts loose I was able to get a little more room by carefully jacking up the body at the rear. The bracket also captures the brake line at this location.
Looking down the skid plate towards the engine on the driver's side you can see the fuel lines up at the top. AMC used these "S" clips that you can see on the left to hold the lines together. Also, there is a wrap-around clip with a bolt that is shared with the brake line on the right.
I thought I had a picture of this but I don't. Not pictured is the wrap-around clip and long bolt that holds the return line only on the upper left corner of the brake proportioning valve.
That's the vent and return line clips/brackets.
Then you have a bracket at the rear shock mount pictured above. There is another one further up across from the muffler not pictured.
This view is looking up at the exhaust hangar bracket. You can see the threads of the bolt holding another bracket like that found at the rear cross member. Again there is very little room to get into this location with the body on, and the bolt is threaded down. With the body mounts loose I was able to get a little more room by carefully jacking up the body at the rear. The bracket also captures the brake line at this location.
Looking down the skid plate towards the engine on the driver's side you can see the fuel lines up at the top. AMC used these "S" clips that you can see on the left to hold the lines together. Also, there is a wrap-around clip with a bolt that is shared with the brake line on the right.
I thought I had a picture of this but I don't. Not pictured is the wrap-around clip and long bolt that holds the return line only on the upper left corner of the brake proportioning valve.
That's the vent and return line clips/brackets.
Attachments
Last edited:
- City
- North Dighton
- State
- MA
Removing the fuel lines after the clips/brackets were out required some added effort. First, the rear axle tube breather hose needed to be disconnected. Second, the exhaust needed to be dropped/loose at the rear bracket near the tailpipe. Third the muffler hangar shown below needed to be loosened. This gives space to push the lines forward towards the engine under the body so that they can be free of the cross member in the rear. Also, the E-brake cable hangar at the mid-body needed to be removed (not pictured).
All lines went towards the front and then out the rear of the Jeep. And for all that effort, I got this:
Note I capped the lines to keep the fuel in the lines from spilling all over me when getting them out. I also plugged all the fuel lines at the tank and the engine to keep any vapors from filling the garage.
After 41 years these lines were SOFT! Almost no effort to bend them, and they broke through in places.
All lines went towards the front and then out the rear of the Jeep. And for all that effort, I got this:
Note I capped the lines to keep the fuel in the lines from spilling all over me when getting them out. I also plugged all the fuel lines at the tank and the engine to keep any vapors from filling the garage.
After 41 years these lines were SOFT! Almost no effort to bend them, and they broke through in places.
Attachments
- City
- North Dighton
- State
- MA
Now the fun part, new fuel lines. Honestly, I was hoping for pre-bent lines they'd be close, but I will let you judge for yourself.
Main Line
Return Line
Vent Line
In some places it is close in terms of bends, others not so much. I'm glad I opted for the steel over stainless steel lines so I could "massage" them a bit. I did reconstruct that rubber end on the vent line and cleaned and re-used the green line to go to the vapor canister. Trying to keep it "as it was" as much as possible.
OK, re-installation was basically the reverse of removal so I'm not going to go over it all again. Went in from the back, and into the engine bay, and then back up over that cross-member. There was a lot of massaging to get these lines into place and go where they needed to go, plus a lot of money into the curse word jar. This is not an easy job with the body on, did I say that before
? I'm not super happy with the end bends on these lines at the tank. They tend to bend up towards the body, making it harder to get the rubber fuel lines and clamps on. I did my best, and "massaged" them enough to not break them (hopefully). Also, the bends and flex of these lines are so stiff (Maybe sprung is a better term) I couldn't capture them all with the factory brackets on reinstall. I ended up not reusing the exhaust hangar and cross-member bolts/brackets. They were the two most difficult to remove because they threaded down. I have them zip-tied together for now and may seek out a couple of better brackets to tighten up those sections. Honestly, it's not going anywhere and I checked for any rubbing or chaffing when I tightened up the body mounts.
Also, I did end up reusing the old brackets and hardware. Just cleaned them a bit and soaked them with this stuff. This stuff was OK, probably wouldn't use it again.
Upon installation on the Jeep, I removed the endcaps and blew out the lines before hooking up the rubber fuel lines. Wanted to make sure no junk in the lines. The instructions that come with the lines say to do that as well.
Reattached the axle breather tube on the rear axle, tightened up the exhaust brackets and e-brake hangar, and tightened the body mounts.
Took a while to get fuel up the carburetor but she fired off just fine and had no fuel leaks. yay!
I definitely would recommend that if your body is coming off your Jeep, replace all these lines at that time. It's not impossible, but as you can see, it is much more involved with the body (somewhat) on.
Unfortunately, after all of this, I now have a coolant leak somewhere around the gasket of the water pump. Only happens when it's cooling off. Not huge, but I won't turn a blind eye to it. Must start to track that down. I also have to pull the transmission and track down a leak on the input side (engine side), she's just losing too much gear oil. Hopefully, I will have time over the next few months to get at it.
Not sure if my posts are parts monkey-approved, but trying to keep the detail level similar to what Raymond started. That's all for now!
Main Line
Return Line
Vent Line
In some places it is close in terms of bends, others not so much. I'm glad I opted for the steel over stainless steel lines so I could "massage" them a bit. I did reconstruct that rubber end on the vent line and cleaned and re-used the green line to go to the vapor canister. Trying to keep it "as it was" as much as possible.
OK, re-installation was basically the reverse of removal so I'm not going to go over it all again. Went in from the back, and into the engine bay, and then back up over that cross-member. There was a lot of massaging to get these lines into place and go where they needed to go, plus a lot of money into the curse word jar. This is not an easy job with the body on, did I say that before
? I'm not super happy with the end bends on these lines at the tank. They tend to bend up towards the body, making it harder to get the rubber fuel lines and clamps on. I did my best, and "massaged" them enough to not break them (hopefully). Also, the bends and flex of these lines are so stiff (Maybe sprung is a better term) I couldn't capture them all with the factory brackets on reinstall. I ended up not reusing the exhaust hangar and cross-member bolts/brackets. They were the two most difficult to remove because they threaded down. I have them zip-tied together for now and may seek out a couple of better brackets to tighten up those sections. Honestly, it's not going anywhere and I checked for any rubbing or chaffing when I tightened up the body mounts.Also, I did end up reusing the old brackets and hardware. Just cleaned them a bit and soaked them with this stuff. This stuff was OK, probably wouldn't use it again.
Upon installation on the Jeep, I removed the endcaps and blew out the lines before hooking up the rubber fuel lines. Wanted to make sure no junk in the lines. The instructions that come with the lines say to do that as well.
Reattached the axle breather tube on the rear axle, tightened up the exhaust brackets and e-brake hangar, and tightened the body mounts.
Took a while to get fuel up the carburetor but she fired off just fine and had no fuel leaks. yay!
I definitely would recommend that if your body is coming off your Jeep, replace all these lines at that time. It's not impossible, but as you can see, it is much more involved with the body (somewhat) on.
Unfortunately, after all of this, I now have a coolant leak somewhere around the gasket of the water pump. Only happens when it's cooling off. Not huge, but I won't turn a blind eye to it. Must start to track that down. I also have to pull the transmission and track down a leak on the input side (engine side), she's just losing too much gear oil. Hopefully, I will have time over the next few months to get at it.
Not sure if my posts are parts monkey-approved, but trying to keep the detail level similar to what Raymond started. That's all for now!
Attachments
Last edited:
- City
- North Dighton
- State
- MA
Oh, almost forgot, I also did a thing.
I haven't had a daily driver Jeep in forever. 2023 soft top Gladiator. It's basic of basic, and because I'm cheap that's why I got it. Manual locks and windows, which I love. The only options were floormats, auto transmission, and spray-in bed liner. We will see what kind of quality it is in the long run.
I haven't had a daily driver Jeep in forever. 2023 soft top Gladiator. It's basic of basic, and because I'm cheap that's why I got it. Manual locks and windows, which I love. The only options were floormats, auto transmission, and spray-in bed liner. We will see what kind of quality it is in the long run.
- City
- Allen Park
- State
- MI
Awesome garage combo! Very cool. And that bolt above the crossmember does look like a huge pain in the azz. Great write-up.
- City
- North Dighton
- State
- MA
Yes sir. Others can chime in with their thoughts too.
I think it may occur more frequently in Jeeps that have sat for a long time. I believe this jeep sat for some time without the engine in it, and that could have started rust in the lines since there was no fuel in them. I had a "ranch" CJ7 from Texas had the same rust in the fuel problem. Most people just keep replacing fuel filters because it's easier.