1982 "Vintage Red" CJ-7 Renegade

[spankrjs]

Got the replacement case(s) cleaned up first thing this morning:



Reference picture:



Removed and reinstalled all 6 of the skid plate bolts individually, no issues:



Pulled both driveshafts, will install new u-joints, the rears are meh:



Speedometer was nonoperational, here is why:



Lot's of dirty stuff to clean up, but no damaged or missing components:



Three hours to get it on the ground, I have pulled way too many T5's!!!!



It was fun getting to the five nuts/bolts that hold the Dana 300 to the T5, lots of crud:



I took the skid plate and both driveshafts to the car wash to clean them up, the mix of oil/mud was like concrete!!!



The Dana 300 was pretty nasty, too. BUT since I don't plan on rebuilding it I did not want to pressure wash it and risk damaging seals or blowing the crud inside of it. It appears to be in great shape, both yokes turn free and smooth, no odd sounds or excess end play.

 

[spankrjs]

I could not leave the Dana 300 all nasty, so a bunch of scraping and hand cleaning was needed:



Took some time and effort, but got all the parts cleaned up and ready for reinstallation:



I disassembled the T5 that was in this Jeep, I have not thoroughly inspected everything yet, but I am confident all the internal parts should be good to go:



Quick picture of the inside of the cracked case, the crack is above the drain hole, running left to right:



Will finish disassembly/cleaning/inspecting the T5 components tomorrow, should be able to get the transmission reassembled tomorrow. With any luck, maybe reinstalled.

That's if for now

 

[John N]

You don’t have a dishwasher for cleaning parts?

 

[ag4ever]

I highly recommend a steam cleaner with brass brushes to clean the oily parts. I use this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DF0RB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Happyyami-Replacement-Accessories-Hairbrush-Assorted/dp/B08VN43GWF/ref=sr_1_13_sspa?crid=34298RHU4GLJF&keywords=Steam+mop+brass&qid=1685242217&s=home-garden&sprefix=steam+mop+brass%2Cgarden%2C191&sr=1-13-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTzFJMDFDUVIxNE1UJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjMyMDM1NDdNNFJJQzJGWlI3JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2MzUxMDkzQUdPWEJUODIxSFk2JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I hit my D300 pretty hard with the 4,000 psi washer after taping up the input. Seams to be doing ok so far, oil looks good, but I will probably drain and replace it soon.

 

[spankrjs]

You don’t have a dishwasher for cleaning parts?

No way Jose

 

[jpnmaine]

Not familiar with the T5. Is it aluminium or a magnesium alloy. If aluminum, degreased and gouged properly, it looks like a straight forward tig repair.

 

[spankrjs]

Not familiar with the T5. Is it aluminium or a magnesium alloy. If aluminum, degreased and gouged properly, it looks like a straight forward tig repair.

Pretty sure it is just cast aluminum.

 

[ag4ever]

Not familiar with the T5. Is it aluminium or a magnesium alloy. If aluminum, degreased and gouged properly, it looks like a straight forward tig repair.

I had a neighbor tig weld a NP241 case. He said it glowed a strange blue color while welding. I don’t think you can ever degrease a transmission or transfer case. But I still think minor cracks can be welded. Not sure a T-5 case is a good candidate for welding, not the best transmission and I would rather spend the money to upgrade to an AX-15 or one of the heavy duty 4 speeds. Or throw all caution to the wind and get an nv4500.

 

[jpnmaine]

Can't argue with that logic. Guess it depends on the circumstances and mods. It's a s÷@t box transmission but can serve a purpose. Guy up the road from me would charge me less than 100$ and he is a wizard with a torch.Torch. Depending on circumstances..I would probably fix it.

 

[spankrjs]

Cleaned and inspected parts this morning, front bearing retainer was damaged, had a good used spare in the T5 parts stash.



Contents of the rebuild kit:



Disassembling the main shaft kicked my butt:



Chaos:



All parts cleaned and inspected:



Minor scuffs on face of some of the input gear teeth. Fingernail would not catch them so not concerned, especially since this case has a complete matched set of original gears. I was able to clean/polish the seal surface on this shaft.



Cutting the outer cages/rollers off the old bearings so I can use them as press pieces.



A few things to talk about here. Used primer/bearing retainer on the front bearing to case seal/fit. Supported the case with steel when I pressed this bearing into it's bore.



Rear bearing installed with 3mm sticking out, which causes a lot of end play on the counter shaft. I tightened this up some, will revisit in the morning. There is a large thrust washer at the front of the countershaft between the case and the front face of the forward gear. At the rear of the shaft there is a spacer between the bearing rollers and the rear most gear on the counter shaft. If you drive the rear bearing all the way into the case it will bind up the countershaft and you can not turn it by hand. If the bearing sticks out too far, the counter shaft floats excessively inside the case. The only thing that holds this bearing stick out in place is the friction fit between the bearings outer shell and the case bore. I don't like this, but that is how it was engineered/designed/built. But, the main shaft gets preloaded, so I guess you need a little fore/aft play with the countershaft so all the teeth mesh/turn nice and smooth. The main shafts almost stationary gears help locate the countershaft inside the case. What is interesting is that I had to heat the old rear bearing/case for about 20 seconds with my little MAP torch to get the bearing out of the rear bore. It is not mentioned in any of the rebuild manuals, I wonder if this bearing should have sleeve retainer on it like the front bearing?



Counter shaft and reverse gears installed in the bottom of the case:

 

[spankrjs]

Used this sealant on the reverse light switch and the reverse/5th gear support bolt:



Broke this spring, good thing I have a T5 parts stash.



The reverse/5th gear shifter thingy installed. No real reason to remove this for a normal rebuild, and I would advise not removing it. It is a huge PIA to reinstall this spring.



Using one of my previously made press spacers to install the input shaft bearing:



No pictures, but assembling the main shaft is easier then installing that stupid spring!!!



Little 5th gear installed, with snap ring; thrust washer and thin snap ring installed on the rear of the counter shaft.



More rear case stuff installed, not all:



Left it like this, ready to measure output shaft end play and add shims behind the front bearing race.



Going to revisit/check countershaft rear bearing stick out/play. Just curious. I do not think bolting the rear case on does anything for this bearing/play. Long day, that's it for now.

 

[spankrjs]

Relocated the T5 work bench from the floor to the Gladiator tail gate, much better!!! Went ahead and pulled the rear case back off to reset the rear cluster gear bearing stickout. I went back and looked at my green Scrambler T5 rebuild posts and figured this would be best. Hopefully those Borg Warner engineers knew what they were doing!!!!



Checked for 3mm stickout at various locations:





This bugged me all last night until I fixed it this morning. Very happy with the ease of rolling and the mesh with the main shaft gears.


Reassembled all of the rear case components:



Standing the transmission on end, input shaft down, checking output shaft end play which was .040:



Sorting, marking shims, coming up with a .045 stack, good thing I have lots of these shims floating around from previous T5 adventures!!!



Installing the shim stack into the front bearing retainer before installing the bearing race, don't forget to install the new input shaft seal!!



Applied RTV to the front bearing retainer and torqued the four mounting bolts. The Helicoils held perfectly.



Don't forget to install the new plastic clips on the shift forks:.

 

[spankrjs]

I must have hit the shift rail forward while the cover was off and knocked out this front plug. Cleaned it up, put some Permatex Hardening Sealant around the edges, tapped it back in with a hammer, good as new.



I always dry fit the top cover a few times to make sure the forks are in neutral and to get the "off center then pull back to center install move" down pat before applying RTV.



Install the rear case seal before installing the rear case:



Sometimes the shift shaft will get dinged up near the roll pin hole, or the end. Make sure you can slide the shifter block freely over this shaft. Test fit this before trying to do the final install. This shaft took a little file/emery cloth work to make it right. You want a tight fit BUT you also have to be able to install it by hand.



This is the tricky part: You have to install the rear case to the front case while simultaneously:

1) not knocking the funnel/bearing/race off the end of the counter shaft
2) pressing down on the spring loaded shifter block while keeping the check ball in the neutral slot while lining its hole up with the shift rail
3) getting the round hole of the rear case over the new o-ring on the shift rail
4) and shove it all into place without the shift rail sliding forward

I always do a few dry runs before RTV to get my technique down pat!!!



Once you feel froggy, apply the RTV and get it done!!! Don't forget the roll pin and the plastic isolator cup:



After that, take a break, finished rebuilding the mighty T5!!!!



I temporarily dry fit the shifter to check all gears, good to go. I also left the transmission in first gear so I could twist the shaft when trying to line up the input shaft and clutch disc splines.



Installed new Spicer u-joints in both driveshafts:



Bolted the Dana 300 to the T5, bolted the assembly to the transmission jack, ready to install:

 

[spankrjs]

The picture I was waiting for!!!!



Patience, a good transmission jack, two dowel pins in the lower bolt holes to aid alignment, no problem.

Finished up down below:



Finished up top:



Still need to:

1) fill T5 and Dana 300 (24 hours for RTV to cure)
2) adjust clutch pedal free play
3) install new master cylinder
4) bleed brakes
5) pack it up and send it on down the line

Will work on it tomorrow night, a nephew high school graduation Wednesday night, hope to finish Thursday night.

I took off work Friday, so will inspect/prep my Red Scrambler for the National. Hope to drive it to Baton Rouge Friday night, then on to Texas Saturday. Nothing but non stop Jeeping, I will need a Jeep Vacation soon!!!!

That's it for now

 

[spankrjs]

After work late this afternoon/evening knocked out the rest of my work on this one:



1) refilled T5/Dana 300
2) installed new speedometer cable
3) adjusted clutch
4) installed new brake MC and bled it out

And!!!!!!!




Took it for a 20 minute successful test drive, stop and go and highway speeds. Upshift/downshifts/reverses fine, no issue with the T5

I forgot how much fun this Jeep is to drive!!! Fires right up, has great power/very peppy, good steering and brakes, transmission shifting great!!

Loaded up the extra parts JeepAddict dropped off the other day, ready to head on down the road.

Part's Monkey Approved!!!!





Hopefully I won't have this much work to do to my Red Scrambler to get it ready for the National Event!!!


That's it for me on this one

 

[spankrjs]

Packed up, ready to go

 

[spankrjs]

Earlier today, safe travels

 

[Belizeit]

Did you strap the Ps Monkey on also ?

 

[spankrjs]

Did you strap the Ps Monkey on also ?

No way!!!!!!!!!!

 

[AJ2393]

Probably the worst-kept secret on the forum. Monday in MS, Thursday in MA, that's pretty quick. See below. For those playing along at home, that's 1,442 miles or about 22 hours straight of driving.



Showed up very late last night around 9PM EST, hard to really do any sort of transport inspection. Did the best I could. The driver flogged it pretty hard trying to start it. He didn't speak English, kept saying "From Ukraine, no English", so I wasn't able to communicate with him at all besides paying him and giving a thumbs up. The passenger door window was damaged in transport, all wrapped in pallet wrap and 1000 safety pins. Nothing keeps a door watertight like a bunch of little holes.

I will inspect more this weekend/next week. Looks like I will need to get a rearview mirror and a new seatbelt for the driver's side. Belt doesn't retract at all, and it will be tested at safety inspection. They also require a rearview mirror up here. Neither should be a big deal to address once I can get the parts. Small oil drip underneath this morning, will investigate that later too.

Extra parts in the Jeep from Tommy (JeepAddict) arrived undamaged (windshield frame, dash, extra doors, bikini top, and console) and are still wrapped in blankets.

Can't thank Tommy & Raymond (spankrjs) enough for everything they have done to get this deal done. It's been in the works for some time, but as always, the forum members here are like family and I never once had my doubts about anything. Trust is huge in deals like these.

For the record, this is my third Jeep CJ purchased solely due to, and from, this forum. That's my subtle hint at paid membership to keep it running.

Will do my best to keep the level of detail in the thread on the level that already exists.