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2tall's Scrambler Journey

Got some new grade 8 bolts with lock nuts for the steering joints, thanks for the recommendation @mysunnshine
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Decided to work on some more of the crappy work a previous builder did. These were the rear shackle mounts, cut off pieces of leaf springs welded to the frame.
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Ordered new hangers and shackles from Ruff Stuff. Got everything cut off, cleaned up, and the new stuff burned in.
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Drilled and tapped some new holes for these Daystar bump stops. The factory ones were already gone and definitely wouldn’t work with the Frankenstein suspension.
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Considering running Ford shock towers front and rear. So currently have this mocked up.
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The isn’t mounted to the axle just resting in place somewhat kicked in at the top.
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These is about 2.75 inches between the shock and tires at the closest part. I can gain a little more clearance kicking the lower mount inward more. Any second opinions on this set up?
 
I made these to fit a little tighter to the frame than the ford mounts do. Just a simple 1.5” square tube with a shock stud from the stock leaf spring plates.
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You could do the same with the ford mounts by cutting the back to angle the top of the mount towards the tub.
 
Great thread and great jeep. I want to know how that 6.0 liter runs? I feel like it should run out extremely well.

Chris
 
Great thread and great jeep. I want to know how that 6.0 liter runs? I feel like it should run out extremely well.

Chris
Thanks! It runs great, other than the spin cam bearing requiring a rebuild a couple years ago. I keep it off the interstate, but it cruises the highway no problem and way more power than I need.
 
Small update, spent some time in the shop todays. Got the factory shock mounts cut off and cut off an old mount that looked to be for a track bar where the driver front bump stop goes. Unbolted the passenger side bump stop and cleaned up both frame rails. Mocked up the new Daystar bump stops using one of the factory holes so I could drill and tap the second. Mocked up a Ford shock tower and measured for front shocks.

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Should have all 4 shocks by the end of the week., so if I have time this weekend the mounts should be welded in. Hopefully have it on the road by the end of the month.
 
Finally hopped back on getting the suspension work done the last couple days. Didn’t take may progress pics. Got the rear Ford shock towers welded to the frame. Hindsight, should’ve drilled and bolted.
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Lower mounts welded to the axle and shocks dangling waiting on lower bolts. Also notice the cutoff exhaust, next project is full exhaust.
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I didn’t take any during pics while I cut off and replaced the front shackle mounts. Used all Ruff Stuff parts here too.
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Learned from the rear and bolted the front shock towers. One of the existing holes lined up with a hole on the mount so only required drilling one extra hole per side.
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Ended up going with 12” travel Fox 2.0 in the rear and 11” travel in the rear. I’ll likely never utilize their full travel but the measured out right at 50/50 up/down travel.

So with the next project being full exhaust system redo, any suggestions from any of you other LS powered guys or gals? Found a shop not too far away that looks to do good work, so I’ll probably be bringing the Jeep there next month or so.
 
Couple updates from the last couple weeks. Added a Bestop bikini top in place of the full soft top.
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Finally completed wiring of the KC led lights on the front. They’re a little more modern looking but I feel like they fit the overall look of my rig.
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Got it out for a few cruising days.
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And in the exhaust shop for a full redo.
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Went with some Magnaflows for a little mellower sound. First time trying them on anything and so far so good. Mild at idle, quiet at a cruise, and bark when you’re in it hard.
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Bolts on the front shock mounts weren’t working out great, so they got welded in like the rears.
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Up next is gears and diffs, local shop has 5.13s, a Yukon grizzly locker for the rear and a true trac for the front ordered and scheduled for install in mid June.
 
Well been a busy couple months and haven’t driven or worked on the Scrambler much. The local Jeep shop got the gears and diffs done for me as well as ball joints, u-joints in the front axles, and a few other odds and ends. They also aligned it. It drives way better with the 5.13s and straight steering wheel.

Changed the engine oil and filter right after the other work. It’s an annual deal for me, it barely gets 1,500 miles a year.
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Picked up this gem for a few hundred bucks from a co-worker. I tried it out and it’s not working. Need to dig into more, but will probably ended up rebuilding and refinishing it later.
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Spent this morning install the M.O.R.E. steering box brace. A few of y’all recommended it and the guys at the Jeep shop did too. They said it still had some flex when they were aligning it.
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Had to get creative with drilling, tapping, and shimming due to the outboard brackets on the front frame rail ends.
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Also replaced the starter but didn’t get any pictures of that. Drove to the gas station to fill her up, parked it right out side my shop door to clean up inside. Couple hours later went to pull it in the shop and nothing but a click on the starter. New AC Delco unit and it starts much happier and quieter.

That’s it for now, hopefully I can put some miles on her to break in the gears and enjoy the fall weather.
 
I am not sure if this was the thread or if there was another one (I looked but can't find what I am remembering)... the cross brace is really designed for a stock frame and box... I was using a TDK frame and a red head new gear and it wouldn't just bolt up. I had this problem before, so I basically cut it apart and rewelded it to make it fit correctly. I think @bigwalton did the same thing with the RHD and I did as well with the RHD CJ7 I did years ago.

Also, you need to round off the ends where the brace goes to the steering gear clamp as you need another ~1 inch of travel as the TDK frame on the other side is taller.

Didn't want to hijack the thread, but here are some pics as everyone loves em...

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I also had to wallow out the holes on the frame side to allow for it to fit... the TDK frame holes that were in there were slightly further apart.

All in all, not a huge project, but just what happens when you take a bunch of aftermarket stuff and try to get it to work together.

cb
 
Yep, I remade mine for the RHD. Nice how simple it is to make it easy to customize.

Great looking rig!
 
@certifiablejeep it definitely makes things interesting trying to make bolt-ons bolt on when it’s a mishmash of parts and brands. That’s what makes it fun to me though.

Took a ride out to a Toys for Tots cruise-in prior to Christmas. A few cool old jeeps, but mostly C10 and F100 crowd.
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Decided to de-mod a bit today. Took of the Amazon LED headlights and orange signal covers. A little more classic looking now.
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Hella glass H4 headlights with Philips LED bulbs so it still performs better than stock.
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Considering removing or relocating the KC lights. Not sure, maybe windshield pillar mounts?
 
Mock up the spacing for flipping your hood back on the windshield with those lights on those mounts if that’s something you do.
 
Finally got a small project I attempted after getting the axles re-geared. Speedometer was never really correct but close enough for my use, until the new gears went in. According to all the charts I saw online, my combo of 5.13 & 37s called for a 39 tooth gear.
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Well I attempted to swap it out but found out my speedometer gear housing was the none adjustable type and couldn’t get it to work with the new gear.IMG_5617.jpeg

Some how previous owners wedged a 34 tooth in and made it work. Teeth were a little deformed on it so it wasn’t totally correct. After doing a little research I found a Mopar unit for certain automatics works, so scooped one up off eBay.
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Slightly but noticeably different offsets and more markings for gears.
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New parts slide right in and bolted up fine. Speedometer is still a little squirrelly but close most of the time now.
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Bonus sneak peak at the next project coming up…
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Hit a car show for a local elementary school this morning. Pulled up into a line of newer JKs and JLs and one lone early CJ5 or M38 can’t really recall now.
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My bud’s 66 Mustang I help him wrench on from time to time.
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A little while later we catch a clean Scrambler pulling up. Ended up being @spankrjs in his green one.
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First time meeting him since owning my 8 even though we’re not far from each other. Great guy! Hope our paths cross again.

Ended up winning best Jeep award
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But as usual with me and car show trophies, the victory is short lived. Went to leave and no start.
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Ended up being a loose connection on the battery negative cable at the terminal. Fixed it up good enough for now, made it to my nephew’s basketball game and back home with no further issues.

So new battery terminal or replacement cable are on the to do list now.

Also for future reference, who’s the preferred replacement wiring harness manufacturer? I recall seeing Painless and another company. Any one better than another?
 
Hit a car show for a local elementary school this morning. Pulled up into a line of newer JKs and JLs and one lone early CJ5 or M38 can’t really recall now.
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My bud’s 66 Mustang I help him wrench on from time to time.
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A little while later we catch a clean Scrambler pulling up. Ended up being @spankrjs in his green one.
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First time meeting him since owning my 8 even though we’re not far from each other. Great guy! Hope our paths cross again.

Ended up winning best Jeep award
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But as usual with me and car show trophies, the victory is short lived. Went to leave and no start.
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Ended up being a loose connection on the battery negative cable at the terminal. Fixed it up good enough for now, made it to my nephew’s basketball game and back home with no further issues.

So new battery terminal or replacement cable are on the to do list now.

Also for future reference, who’s the preferred replacement wiring harness manufacturer? I recall seeing Painless and another company. Any one better than another?
Centech(in PA) makes a harness.
Congrats on the win!
 
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