I am wrong. I looked up what a stock Dodge NV has and it's 29. However, I did not get the shaft shortened and the Tcase mated up fine.
82 4bt build
- Thread starter AllxHeart
- Start date
I am wrong. I looked up what a stock Dodge NV has and it's 29. However, I did not get the shaft shortened and the Tcase mated up fine.
- City
- Colorado Springs
- State
- CO
The regular, gas NV can have either 23 or 29 while the diesel (and sometimes the Hemi) "HD" got 29. The circular aspect of the mounting area should be the same though some (myself included) have run into an issue where the bolts all line up except one (of 6).
And to add a little more...Jeep used two different types of input shaft bearing retainers on the Dana 300. One is fairly smooth looking and the other kind of blocky with what kind of looks like webbing/gusseting? My t-case was the later and it didn't want to fit despite looking like they are physically the same depth. Weird, yes. But when I added the clocking ring it fit fine. My problem may have been the gear reduction box between the two though...
And to add a little more...Jeep used two different types of input shaft bearing retainers on the Dana 300. One is fairly smooth looking and the other kind of blocky with what kind of looks like webbing/gusseting? My t-case was the later and it didn't want to fit despite looking like they are physically the same depth. Weird, yes. But when I added the clocking ring it fit fine. My problem may have been the gear reduction box between the two though...
I need your help!
Been messing with the wiring all day and this is my weak point. I got most of it narrowed down, but I ran in to a problem. When I hook everything up my parking lights are on without the key even in.
Here is the wires and what they are.
Two Eyelets: Went to CJ external start solenoid.
White Wire: Goes to starter solenoid
Green wire: No idea
Red wire/white wire quick disconnect: power back to interior/accessories.
Red wire wrapped on alternator post: Goes from + on Batt.
'
I'm not sure how I am getting power to my parking lights.
Well other than the wiring issue things are going well. I got my gear oil for the tranny. 26 bucks a quart is not awesome, but once a year is not bad. I also got my shock towers. Got 4 88' F350 towers. I ordered my shocks and they should come in this week.
Made a shift handle with scrap metal. Going to look at a junk yard to find a real shifter. My buddy keeps telling me my jeep build is overkill so I made a ridiculous shifter.
Here is the jeep as it sits now.
If anyone that is good with wiring could point me in the right direction as to what could possibly be my wiring problem. Otherwise when I get the hydraulic clutch hooked up, i'll just drive it down to the shop to get it fixed.
Been messing with the wiring all day and this is my weak point. I got most of it narrowed down, but I ran in to a problem. When I hook everything up my parking lights are on without the key even in.
Here is the wires and what they are.
Two Eyelets: Went to CJ external start solenoid.
White Wire: Goes to starter solenoid
Green wire: No idea
Red wire/white wire quick disconnect: power back to interior/accessories.
Red wire wrapped on alternator post: Goes from + on Batt.
I'm not sure how I am getting power to my parking lights.
Well other than the wiring issue things are going well. I got my gear oil for the tranny. 26 bucks a quart is not awesome, but once a year is not bad. I also got my shock towers. Got 4 88' F350 towers. I ordered my shocks and they should come in this week.
Made a shift handle with scrap metal. Going to look at a junk yard to find a real shifter. My buddy keeps telling me my jeep build is overkill so I made a ridiculous shifter.
Here is the jeep as it sits now.
If anyone that is good with wiring could point me in the right direction as to what could possibly be my wiring problem. Otherwise when I get the hydraulic clutch hooked up, i'll just drive it down to the shop to get it fixed.
- City
- Colorado Springs
- State
- CO
I can't wait to see how the ford shock towers do on the rear...Haven't seen that before. Is there room to get the shock mount on the axle?
As for the wiring...sorry, no help here. Not my strong point. *blush*
That is one sexy looking Scrambler there....Hope you can get a video of you driving it around soon so we can see the huge smile! lol!
And buying the tranny fluid DOES suck! But it is a must have for our NVs unfortunately.
As for the wiring...sorry, no help here. Not my strong point. *blush*
That is one sexy looking Scrambler there....Hope you can get a video of you driving it around soon so we can see the huge smile! lol!
And buying the tranny fluid DOES suck! But it is a must have for our NVs unfortunately.
- City
- Cobourg, Ontario, Cana
- State
- da
Sorry I haven't given an update guys. I've been spending a lot of time with my little bro before he goes back home. I go on vacation on the 2nd to the 18th so I won't be doing much before then. Driving with a friend to California and Seattle. I'll be hitting it hard after I get back!
So my frustration and anger level is getting very high right now with the build. Things left to do.
Wiring problem still
Shock towers and shocks
bleed brakes
Buy turbo with wastegate
and minor things(tighten up stuff, torque bolts, clean up wiring, etc etc)
And now the clutch issue.
I've pulled the tranny numerous times so far and honestly with my crossmember it couldn't be easier. I unbolt the housing and just bench press it and push it to the rear. It wedges itself nicely and I can easily get to the clutch. Alright so here is the issue. I installed the pressure plate/clutch/throw out bearing/fork and it all sits nicely and seems to be as it should. I then install the hydro clutch and now I have a problem. I press the clutch pedal down and it is pretty stiff (10 pumps of it starts to fatigue my leg). I can press the pedal down til the clutch master cylinder bottoms out, but I still can't shift. Why am I not getting the proper throw I need to disengage and engage the clutch? Do I need a knew slave/master cylinder setup? I'm really frustrated with this and I'm about to take it to a shop, but that means not for a while bc money is not something I'm swimming in right now. Anyway, if any of you know or know someone who knows about this please help me out. I'm going to miss the entire topless summer and I'm really tired of seeing all these beautiful CJ's and Wranglers driving down the road and I can't wave without looking like a weirdo. haha.
Wiring problem still
Shock towers and shocks
bleed brakes
Buy turbo with wastegate
and minor things(tighten up stuff, torque bolts, clean up wiring, etc etc)
And now the clutch issue.
I've pulled the tranny numerous times so far and honestly with my crossmember it couldn't be easier. I unbolt the housing and just bench press it and push it to the rear. It wedges itself nicely and I can easily get to the clutch. Alright so here is the issue. I installed the pressure plate/clutch/throw out bearing/fork and it all sits nicely and seems to be as it should. I then install the hydro clutch and now I have a problem. I press the clutch pedal down and it is pretty stiff (10 pumps of it starts to fatigue my leg). I can press the pedal down til the clutch master cylinder bottoms out, but I still can't shift. Why am I not getting the proper throw I need to disengage and engage the clutch? Do I need a knew slave/master cylinder setup? I'm really frustrated with this and I'm about to take it to a shop, but that means not for a while bc money is not something I'm swimming in right now. Anyway, if any of you know or know someone who knows about this please help me out. I'm going to miss the entire topless summer and I'm really tired of seeing all these beautiful CJ's and Wranglers driving down the road and I can't wave without looking like a weirdo. haha.
gaducker
Legacy Registered User
- City
- Newnan
- State
- ga
I got a set of used stock hydros off of cummins forums and it took a few days of driving to fully bleed itsself but now it works fine. your angles are good under the dash so the rods not binding on the master cyl itself? I could not find a good angle so I let it rub a little when fully depressed. Are you bottoming out the pedal to metal? did you weld your stub on the pedal were the rod was resting? I welded my stub on where I had to compress the rod about a quarter of an inch and I cut my clutch pedal and pulled it so it was even with the brake pedal so I got more travel that way. If you need any mesurments to compare to let me know.
My alt had a built in reg and its truly a one wire hook up to the batt. and its got a ground.
Dont give up, I toped off when the water came in in LA for fear of fuel going up and I got one hundrend eighty six miles from 6.5 gals of fuel around town........ I think its geared just right.
My alt had a built in reg and its truly a one wire hook up to the batt. and its got a ground.
Dont give up, I toped off when the water came in in LA for fear of fuel going up and I got one hundrend eighty six miles from 6.5 gals of fuel around town........ I think its geared just right.
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Yea the throw out bearing has enough travel and moves smoothly. (no binding)
PM me your measurements and some pics if you can. I'd like to see your setup. Is your master/slave cylinders a complete setup that is sealed? Mine does not have a bleed port. I bought it sealed. I'll mess with the wiring again later. Instead of dwelling on the two problem areas I'm going to focus on all the little stuff I need to do. Then I'll really get angry when the two problems are the only thing I have left. haha.
That's some good mileage there! I'm hoping for 25. What size tires are you using and what is your gearing? I'm still on 31's and stock gears of 3:31 w/trac-lock.
gaducker
Legacy Registered User
- City
- Newnan
- State
- ga
thirty fives and three fifty five gears. It feels like it will pull to 90 mph if I had the cahones to let it go.
Its a sealed stock unit. I found a article that says to hold the slave cyl at a forty five degree angle and hold the master up above it and push the rod into the slave multiple times this will self bleed the unit. I could feel it bleeding while I was doing it but it still took a few days for the pedal to feel one hundrend percent bled out after I got it installed and started driving it. I will take some pics and put them here this eve. Chris
Its a sealed stock unit. I found a article that says to hold the slave cyl at a forty five degree angle and hold the master up above it and push the rod into the slave multiple times this will self bleed the unit. I could feel it bleeding while I was doing it but it still took a few days for the pedal to feel one hundrend percent bled out after I got it installed and started driving it. I will take some pics and put them here this eve. Chris
Haven't posted pics in a while so here are some.
I lucked out with how I built my crossmember. It will be really easy to change the clutch down the road since all I have to do is slide the transmission back instead of dropping it. Then slide it forward and easily grip it in to place.
My friends son was helping me out. Great to see a 10 year old have so much interest in helping.
All four shock towers are in and instead of drilling in to the frame I decided to weld them in.
Bought an inspection camera to look in to my transmission and hopefully get some information on why it is not working properly. Thanks to Gaducker I have a better idea on how to hook up my wiring. I need to get this jeep on the road. Mainly bc my daily driver Jeep Grand Cherokee is ready to die any day now and I don't want to spend any more money on it. However I am considering doing this.
I paid 700 for this Cherokee and I've been wanting a nice off road enclosed trailer. I looked at a couple tear drop trailers like Moby1, adventure trailers, etc and I'm not interested in paying 10k-15k bucks for a trailer I'll only use when I go on big trips. Also, now that I have taken on this project and learned a lot about how myself and my mechanical ability I would rather build my own. This one woud be a cool trailer conversion. Yea I know that this would be a really nice restore, but it would take a lot less work to build a really cool trailer. http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/3204553448.html
I lucked out with how I built my crossmember. It will be really easy to change the clutch down the road since all I have to do is slide the transmission back instead of dropping it. Then slide it forward and easily grip it in to place.
My friends son was helping me out. Great to see a 10 year old have so much interest in helping.
All four shock towers are in and instead of drilling in to the frame I decided to weld them in.
Bought an inspection camera to look in to my transmission and hopefully get some information on why it is not working properly. Thanks to Gaducker I have a better idea on how to hook up my wiring. I need to get this jeep on the road. Mainly bc my daily driver Jeep Grand Cherokee is ready to die any day now and I don't want to spend any more money on it. However I am considering doing this.
I paid 700 for this Cherokee and I've been wanting a nice off road enclosed trailer. I looked at a couple tear drop trailers like Moby1, adventure trailers, etc and I'm not interested in paying 10k-15k bucks for a trailer I'll only use when I go on big trips. Also, now that I have taken on this project and learned a lot about how myself and my mechanical ability I would rather build my own. This one woud be a cool trailer conversion. Yea I know that this would be a really nice restore, but it would take a lot less work to build a really cool trailer. http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/3204553448.html
- City
- Colorado Springs
- State
- CO
Great to see your making progress! Love the dog! 
Makes me miss mine a bunch!
I'd suggest you just build your own trailer if you really want one. You can get an axle assembly pretty cheap, the tubing for the frame and sheet for the tub isn't that expensive and you'd have what you want. Trying to make a vehicle into a trailer presents a lot of problems... between having to replace rusty metal and whatnot as well as having to make your wants fit what your working with... just easier to make your own. Not hard and with what you've accomplished with the diesel swap it should not be much of a challenge to you.
Makes me miss mine a bunch! I'd suggest you just build your own trailer if you really want one. You can get an axle assembly pretty cheap, the tubing for the frame and sheet for the tub isn't that expensive and you'd have what you want. Trying to make a vehicle into a trailer presents a lot of problems... between having to replace rusty metal and whatnot as well as having to make your wants fit what your working with... just easier to make your own. Not hard and with what you've accomplished with the diesel swap it should not be much of a challenge to you.
gaducker
Legacy Registered User
- City
- Newnan
- State
- ga
In the fifth pic up is that round thing in the pic the resovior for the clutch master cyl? If so is it up higher than the master cyl and it looks like its on its side, is it full? I ziptied mine onto the core support rod just above the master cyl/
It's above the master cylinder, full, and it's just temp installed right now. I haven't made anything permanent as of yet. I bought a 100 dollar inspection camera today and I'll check out the trans tomorrow. Hopefully I'll get some insight if the clutch is working properly. If so I'll buy another hydro setup and hope for the best.
Great to see your making progress! Love the dog!
I'd suggest you just build your own trailer if you really want one. You can get an axle assembly pretty cheap, the tubing for the frame and sheet for the tub isn't that expensive and you'd have what you want. Trying to make a vehicle into a trailer presents a lot of problems... between having to replace rusty metal and whatnot as well as having to make your wants fit what your working with... just easier to make your own. Not hard and with what you've accomplished with the diesel swap it should not be much of a challenge to you.
Yea I just might build one. I would much rather sell the XJ and have the money. I'm hoping to move to South Lake tahoe in the next 6 months or sooner if the Scrambler gets done and doesn't have any issues. My goal is to load all I need in my scrambler and sell the rest of my belongings. I'm not far from that right now. I'm big on minimalism. No Tv, no bed, no furniture, no unwanted things. Lots of outdoor camping gear though. haha.
The transmission shop looked at my jeep and narrowed it down to my Sealed Hydro master/slave cylinder setup to be faulty. They put a new clutch and flywheel in it to make sure it's not that and still had the same issue. Guess I'm on the hunt for another setup. I'd rather not have a sealed unit just in case the slave cylinder goes bad I won't have to change the whole thing.
My brother in law is doing a contract in OKC so he will be leaving with me for a couple months. He is bringing his 79' CJ7 with a suped up Chevy 350. If it was in a normal car it would put up some good numbers on the 1/4 mile. I'll post a pic of his jeep when he gets here. We are going to build him a front and rear bumper and fix some things of his. Hopefully I'll sort out this issue soon and get it on the road.
Oh and a kick in the teeth for me is that I blew a fuse on the scrambler and I have no power to the inside of the cab. Can't start it from the key or anything. I've been checking spots with the check light and I think I blew a fuseable link on the inside of the firewall. I'll be tearing in to the dash to track it down. If all goes well with the transmission and the wiring, I hope to give the scrambler it's first road test soon.
Gaducker, what year, make, and model did the sealed unit you bought come off of?
My brother in law is doing a contract in OKC so he will be leaving with me for a couple months. He is bringing his 79' CJ7 with a suped up Chevy 350. If it was in a normal car it would put up some good numbers on the 1/4 mile. I'll post a pic of his jeep when he gets here. We are going to build him a front and rear bumper and fix some things of his. Hopefully I'll sort out this issue soon and get it on the road.
Oh and a kick in the teeth for me is that I blew a fuse on the scrambler and I have no power to the inside of the cab. Can't start it from the key or anything. I've been checking spots with the check light and I think I blew a fuseable link on the inside of the firewall. I'll be tearing in to the dash to track it down. If all goes well with the transmission and the wiring, I hope to give the scrambler it's first road test soon.
Gaducker, what year, make, and model did the sealed unit you bought come off of?