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82 4bt build

I tried not to cry myself to sleep when I read about the Grandpa's Truck the other night. What's going to become of it?

For the spring pad you'll need a larger u-bolt just like stock was. The driver side and outside passenger are all the same size but the pumpkin side u-bolt was larger. Spring plate may either need to be re-drilled in the proper location (you can't get away w/ simply making the holes larger, they need to "move") or get the matching spring plate for 4wd's off-set perch.
 
I tried not to cry myself to sleep when I read about the Grandpa's Truck the other night. What's going to become of it?

For the spring pad you'll need a larger u-bolt just like stock was. The driver side and outside passenger are all the same size but the pumpkin side u-bolt was larger. Spring plate may either need to be re-drilled in the proper location (you can't get away w/ simply making the holes larger, they need to "move") or get the matching spring plate for 4wd's off-set perch.

I gave the truck to a buddy of mine to use. He has a old 3500 dump bed that was his grandpas so he's going to use my truck for parts to get that one together.

I would have bought a u-bolt for a bigger axle to fit the diff housing size, but I'd rather use what I got now and see if it fits and if it doesn't fit then I'll do my best to make it fit.
 
So this weekend I thought I would get a lot accomplished, but it seems like I am really close to getting a lot of things done, but other items stand in the way. That's just how it goes I guess.

So far this weekend I've mainly got sun burnt and cleaned up and organized with a little bit of progress.

First thing I see when I open the door of the jeep is a manual for me. I don't know who left it, but I sure am grateful!
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Isn't that a pretty sight!!
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I cut and offset the perch and we made the u-bolt fit. If you work on airplanes you are well aware of what safety wire is and I always have a roll in my car. I've done a lot with a roll of safety wire and now I can add this to the list as well.
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Put the engine together some more to see how it sits in the Jeep and make sure everything fits
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Lots of room under there!
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Measure twice cut once. Well I measured probably 5 times and I learned it does not matter how many times you measure. If you don't have a press to get your drill perfect then it's going to be off. Well at least for me it will be. I managed to be off by 1/4". Oh well I'll just make a little adjustment and it will work.
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I have no regard for my own safety at times. haha
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Tomorrow my buddy and I "plan" on installing the gas tank and the lines. All the gas has been drained out so it should be good to go. If I can find a fitting for the lift pump I will try to start it this weekend. Looking forward to hearing that engine run!
 
Here are a couple random pics just from today. I always have my phone ready to snap a good pic.
These trucks are way too common in Oklahoma and not too practical.
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Speaking of practicality, I found this beauty of a knife at STEVES WHOLESALE TOOLS! haha.
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This is what I enjoy seeing the most.
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Cleaning up I found this 30mm round I cut down and grooved out while in afghanistan. We get really bored there and there is no shortage of these 30mils.
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I need mesurements when you are set to weld up everything, I have my bread van and i am considering just swaping the motor and the allison trans and run it as a two whell drive so I can keep driving, Then put the nv in when I collect the parts up.
 
Coming along nicely! FWIW, you could take your "made to fit" Ubolt to a spring shop and have one made that size for about 5 bucks. *shrugs* Not sure if reheating and bending does anything to the bolts strength?
 
Coming along nicely! FWIW, you could take your "made to fit" Ubolt to a spring shop and have one made that size for about 5 bucks. *shrugs* Not sure if reheating and bending does anything to the bolts strength?

I second that thought. Great to see the progress!


 
I need mesurements when you are set to weld up everything, I have my bread van and i am considering just swaping the motor and the allison trans and run it as a two whell drive so I can keep driving, Then put the nv in when I collect the parts up.

Thats not a bad idea. I thought about running 2wd for a while when I had the 2wd NV4500 housing, but ultimately decided against it. I already welded up my motor mounts. Is that what you wanted for measurements? I'd like to tell you, but I couldn't give you an honest answer and in my opinion I think everyone should just fab up there own bc it will change based on where you set up things. Hit me up on a PM though and I'll help you out with whatever you need and answer it the best I can.
 
Got the Flywheel on and the starter installed as well.
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Since I won't be using the intercooler right now I used the metal hoses to make one hose. This was a pain to weld for me. I've only been welding since this project. haha.
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Starting tearing down the front end to make way for the high steer and bigger steering rods.
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Here is the difference of the old and new steering rods.
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I lucked out on the right side that I didn't need the spindle nut socket. I just tapped it with a screwdriver and it spun easily. However the left side would not budge so I ordered the socket. I also ordered new seals, bearings, and u-joints. I remember having a heck of a time taking off the u-joints for my TJ so I said I would just wait to remove them until I can get to the press on base. Well my buddy grabbed them shafts and with a hammer knocked out the u-joint without a problem. I was pretty impressed.
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The axle is turned up so it's not going to be like this when I am finished.
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I was filling up the oil with Rotella T and it started leaking at the power steering pump. I looked up the kit to rebuild the used power steering pump and it's about $25. Instead of going through that pain I'm going to just buy a new pump. They are only $60 and then I'll have a warranty as well.

If the oil leak wouldn't have happened I would have tried out starting it for the first time. My buddy started it up when he picked it up, but I haven't heard it run and I rebuilt the engine so I'll be hoping for the best. Pretty much everything I need is ordered besides drive shafts and shocks.

Good and bad news. I'm having knee surgery wednesday. Bad news is I don't know how long I'll be out. Good news is I'll have at least 2 weeks off so when I do feel up to it I'll be out on the jeep. I had ACL reconstructive surgery 2 years ago and developed scar tissue that needs to be cleaned out so I don't expect to be out for long.

I hope the next update will be a video of the engine running!
 
Dose that set up keep you transfer case close to stock? Got any pics of your mounts? I think I am holding out to get the nv instead of putting the allision in.
 
Dose that set up keep you transfer case close to stock? Got any pics of your mounts? I think I am holding out to get the nv instead of putting the allision in.

I can't imagine owning a diesel and not having a manual tranny. Almost seems like it should be a law or something? :) And don't be surprised if it takes him a while to get back to answer you... I think he just had knee surgery...
Wishing him the best on that by the way!!!!!!!!
 
Dose that set up keep you transfer case close to stock? Got any pics of your mounts? I think I am holding out to get the nv instead of putting the allision in.

I never measured my Tcase location prior to removal. However, the rear driveshaft length is 33.5" averaged and the front driveshaft is 34.5" averaged. I can do more measuring if you'd like to get you in the right area.

Angles for driveshafts.

Rear diff to ground is 110degrees
Tcase rear yoke to ground is 90 degrees
Rear diff to tcase yoke angle is 70 degrees

This sets me up for a double Cardon drive shaft. Basically the rear yoke is pointed at the tcase yoke. If you want a normal driveshaft you don't want this angle setup.

Front Angles

Front diff to ground is 95 degrees
front tcase to ground is 90
Tcase to front diff is 110 degrees. I guess the degrees depend on how you are referencing for your base line. You can make it obtuse or acute. haha.

I've got pics of my mounts. I'll load pics later.
 
I can't imagine owning a diesel and not having a manual tranny. Almost seems like it should be a law or something? :) And don't be surprised if it takes him a while to get back to answer you... I think he just had knee surgery...
Wishing him the best on that by the way!!!!!!!!

Hey thanks for that. Knee surgery went well and I feel pretty good so far. Still taking it easy.

Yea sorry I haven't been on. I'll answer PM's soon. Found out that the city has a law against working on vehicles in the driveway. I'll be moving my jeep to a friends place this week, but good news is everything is on the way!

Awaiting my driveshafts ordered from Tom Woods. Only business I've ever dealt with where I talked to the man himself to get my part. Tom woods is a good guy!
Also awaiting new filler hoses and my shift tower.

I've got a better update coming up when I get time. My little brother came to stay for the summer so I have been really busy lately hanging out with him. I think I've spent a total of 3 months with him in the last 7 years of the Air Force so it's nice to spend time with him.
 
Was your nv trans a three sixty gas version instead of a hd diesel unit?

My NV4500 was bought from a dealer made for a dodge 6BT. I'm actually taking the tranny back to the dealer because they put the wrong size bearing retainer on it so the Throw out bearing doesn't fit now and I don't want to buy another throwout bearing with a smaller inner diameter now or every time I change it.
 
Anybody having trouble using iphone Tapatalk app? I can't access the web page from there. Trying to upload pics from my phone.
 
You had to change the input on the dana 300 to 29 spline?>

If you have the GM NV4500 then yes, but the Dodge NV4500 goes in to the Dana 300 stock spline. I have the adapter set up for the Dana 300 if you have or find a GM NV4500. I had the GM NV4500 originally but it was 2wd setup and I didn't want to change the Main shaft so I bought the Dodge NV4500 with the 5th gear fix to save me a headache. The Novak adapter is pricey, but if you need it I'll sell you mine for a good price. I also got the measurements for the engine with pictures. I just need to get on a computer other than government so I can upload photos.
 
Here is the update I've been talking about doing.

I had to take my tranny back to the dealer and they said they gave me a gas NV4500 instead of the diesel. The input shaft is smaller on the gas and so is the bearing retainer. They are changing it out today and I pick it up tomorrow no charge.

I got kicked out of my last location. The city is not a fan of people working on cars on their own property. I really miss living in the country. My new location is an hour drive from my place, but it has power tools and everything I could ever need for this project. Wish I would have moved here long ago. Getting the jeep there was a journey. I thought I tightened my U-bolts enough but the first turn proved me wrong. Axle shifted and I dragged the jeep for 6 feet. Rolled it back, loosened U-bolts, shifted axle, and tightened them as hard as I could. It lasted the whole way. The jeeps lift was a lot more than the stock Cherokee, but I dropped a size on the hitch ball and it luckily held together.
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Here is the jeep at the new place.
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Two of the tool boxes.
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Here are the motor mounts I promised. These were done the crudest way possible probably. Unfortunately I don't have a CAD program so I just eye balled it with card board started cutting and welding.
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Got a pretty good weld burn today. Never had a blister rise up so fast. I kept working and of course tore it open within a matter of minutes.
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Drive shafts from Tom woods and 1 ton Brake kit came in from www.the-jeep-guy.com. He was great to work with and gave me a lot of information. I will be doing as much business as possible with him.
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Mocked up the Hydro boost lines. Pretty easy to figure out after I looked at a couple schematics.
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Here is the new brake kit installed. Was really easy to do. I think it was just over 300 for brackets, calipers, pads, and rotors. My jeep is going to have great stopping power.
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Hey GADUCKER! I finally got those measurements and I took pics to make it easier. I used the same frame mounting points for the engine mounts and used AMC 360 engine mounts. I cut one of the stock motor mounts and welded it back together. It made for a really good starting point. I measure the center point of the engine with the frame and put a piece of wood between the engine and the frame to keep it steady. I shut the hood and looked for clearance. The transmission was installed at the same time too. I made sure the rear t-case yoke was 90 degrees from the ground.
Firewall distance
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Front measurements
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The frame is 29 inches wide measuring from the outsides of the frame. That puts the center at 14.5". I couldn't believe how dead on I got it. Probably my luckiest point in this build. Hope this helps with your build!

To do list! In not particular order.
Weld knuckle to pitman arm steering rod.
Buy new pitman arm with 1 ton hole size
Finish brake system
Booster waste gate
Tranny installed
Hydro clutch installed
Driveshafts installed
Cross member built
Gas tank installed
Engine wired/started
Radiator/hoses installed
Measure articulation for shocks
Build shock mounts.
And of course fluids filled and misc stuff.

It's coming along!
 
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