Adventures with Peggy's jeep.

[sdsupilot]

There has been some discussion on 6 bolt hubs. After I broke a factory 5 bolt, I replaced that hub with a 6 bolt locking hub.

I have 3 hubs to show some differences.


On the left is from a 76-80 CJ7 with disc brakes. Middle is a 70s CJ5 with drum fronts. Right is my 81CJ8. The only difference I’ve seen is the back of the hub is machined flat for disc brakes. Drum hubs will not work, that is unless you have them machined.

From the inside, the above 3 are identical. Some years may use different wheel bearings, but the diameters are the same. The outside of the 6 bolt units stand about 1/8” higher from the WMS than the 5 bolt. Imagine that difference is for the locking hub itself.

 

[sdsupilot]

Its been a year since the swap was completed. I've logged right at 3000 miles. Overall, very happy with the swap/efi/auto setup. I am still running my DIY shifter for the 241. The Lokar shifter for the 700r4 is perfect for street use. I still get about the same crappy mileage as before.

This year I don't have many "big" changes planned. I need to get a new (or working) clock and tach (mine works, but is 4 cyl). The only other squawk would be the vent/heater cable is still broken. I just plan on driving and enjoying it.

Happy Scrambing!

 

[sdsupilot]

Time to start some safety upgrades. I added the rear family cage a few years ago, now I am going to add to the front. The main issue I have with front cages is access in and out of the jeep. I’m 6’2, so I need as much space as possible in an already small CJ.

I could buy one of the commercial dash mounts, but most I found were $400 before shipping. I found some 3/16 x 4” strap and fired up my grinder. Cut a notch for the windshield and added a bit to capture the windshield.


Used an old dash to use as a template for the holes. Some minor fitting and I have this:


Now I just need to add a ledge for the tubing to sit on.

 

[Randyzzz]

You might want to countersink those 3 bolt holes and use flat head Allen bolts. The factory bolts were too thick and the doors wouldn’t close when I first tried that. Nice start on the brackets!

 

[certifiablejeep]

You might want to countersink those 3 bolt holes and use flat head Allen bolts. The factory bolts were too thick and the doors wouldn’t close when I first tried that. Nice start on the brackets!

X2, running into that now... they have to be countersunk or the hard doors will not shut.

cb

 

[sdsupilot]

Thanks for the info! I haven’t had doors on in years, but would still like to have the option.

 

[sdsupilot]

I’ve done a little Jeep work during this “new normal”. Getting closer on the front cage. Still debating on tie ins to the floor. Tube is bent, front plate mounts are made and mostly welded.



The square brace was just to hold together. I cut these braces from some strap steel I had laying around.



Also moved some drum brake mid 70s CJ5 axles to a friends for storage. Towed the trailer well enough. Also got a TJ rear bumper I will need to fit eventually. My current one is ok, but this one has a lower hitch mount.

 

[sdsupilot]

Switched it up today and wired in cab winch controls from the 12v guy for my 8274.

I used bulk 16-3 outdoor/extension cord from the Home Depot. I only used the green and black wires as I wanted to use run power rather than have the winch hot with the key off. Coincidentally the 16-3 wire color matched the warns factory working of white, green and black.

I didn’t want to cut a hole in my dash, so I made a quick bolt on mount from some aluminum I had laying around. I drilled and mounted it


I wired the front using the green (in) and black (out) not using the white wire. The white wire from warn is the power wire that normally is hot all the time for the factory controller. I used the cigarette lighter to provide “run” power for the in cab winch controls only when the key is on. This prevents kiddos from accidentally activating the winch.

 

[certifiablejeep]

Switched it up today and wired in cab winch controls from the 12v guy for my 8274.

I used bulk 16-3 outdoor/extension cord from the Home Depot. I only used the green and black wires as I wanted to use run power rather than have the winch hot with the key off. Coincidentally the 16-3 wire color matched the warns factory working of white, green and black.

I didn’t want to cut a hole in my dash, so I made a quick bolt on mount from some aluminum I had laying around. I drilled and mounted it
View attachment 84023

I wired the front using the green (in) and black (out) not using the white wire. The white wire from warn is the power wire that normally is hot all the time for the factory controller. I used the cigarette lighter to provide “run” power for the in cab winch controls only when the key is on. This prevents kiddos from accidentally activating the winch.


View attachment 84024View attachment 84025

Love the switch, but why is there an advanced auto parts sticker on your tach?

cb

 

[designerRob]

Switched it up today and wired in cab winch controls from the 12v guy for my 8274.

I used bulk 16-3 outdoor/extension cord from the Home Depot. I only used the green and black wires as I wanted to use run power rather than have the winch hot with the key off. Coincidentally the 16-3 wire color matched the warns factory working of white, green and black.

I didn’t want to cut a hole in my dash, so I made a quick bolt on mount from some aluminum I had laying around. I drilled and mounted it
View attachment 84023

I wired the front using the green (in) and black (out) not using the white wire. The white wire from warn is the power wire that normally is hot all the time for the factory controller. I used the cigarette lighter to provide “run” power for the in cab winch controls only when the key is on. This prevents kiddos from accidentally activating the winch.


View attachment 84024View attachment 84025

Nice setup, well done.

 

[sdsupilot]

Love the switch, but why is there an advanced auto parts sticker on your tach?

cb

My tach does work, but is for a 4 cylinder. I've left it unhooked for a while. I really need to make an order from speedhut for a tach and clock (which is broken).

Nice setup, well done.

Thanks!

 

[don87401]

I would consider putting a pair of these.
https://www.tmrcustoms.com/collections/tube-clamps-flanges/products/interlocking-id-tube-clamp-round
So you don't have to do this later.


To Do this.


to fix this.

 

[sdsupilot]

Those are really cool! I've been trying to decide how to tie my front cage to the floor. It is currently only bolted to the dash. I was then planning on having it bolt to the supports that go to the floor. If I do this everything from the dash up and back would have to be removed as one unit. Or, I could use those TMR clamps and remove above the dash. Haven't quite decided what to do yet.

 

[93_Fummins]

Pfft! What fun is that? And miss out on the classic half on the seat, half on the floorboard, cricked neck, bound up shoulder, can barely move your hands to get to what you can hardly see, flashlight in mouth, tuck and roll, ultimately fall asleep in contorted position, normal under dash routine?

 

[don87401]

I did not think about having to take it back out at the time. But as luck would have it I had to. Its a CJ6 and has full length roll cage so I decided it was the lesser of the 2 evils to cut and add the connectors to get the dash out.

The stanchions are Genright by the way.

 

[sdsupilot]

I must be getting older. I just take the seats out at the first sign of looking under the dash.

genright makes some great stuff. I will likely diy the rest of the cage as I have quite a supply of steel.

Today I reinstalled my diy NP241C skid plate. I took it off to paint a week or two ago. It’s got some trail rash from previous adventures. It’s done a pretty good job of supporting the weight of the jeep so far.

 

[sdsupilot]

The paint on the skid plate lasted a week. This is the reason I can’t have nice things.


Went to the Big Meat Run in Disney OK this past weekend. The jeep did pretty well. Only damage was ripping the rear fender flairs off and a few new pin stripes.


Post trip thoughts... links would flex better than leaf springs and it sure would be nice to have wider axles. I do have a line on a j truck 44 that I would narrow vs outboard. Then I would run a pilot or rodeo rear 44. Or build a set of CJ wide tracks.

 

[walkerhoundvm]

How did you manage to rip the rear flares off?

 

[sdsupilot]

How did you manage to rip the rear flares off?

Some of the trails are pretty narrow and off camber. I got hung up on trees. Luckily I've been using plastic washers, so the fenders are frangible. No real damage but my paint is not in very good shape so its hard to tell.

 

[93_Fummins]

... Or build a set of CJ wide tracks.

Come and get 'em!