• Notice for iPhone users: DO NOT use the image size reduction option when uploading photos to the forum. This causes portrait images to post as landscape. We have added a warning to the image insert pop-up as well.

AMC 20 advise repair? replace?

I just looked at this thread again cause I wanted to look at Bobbysjeep Scrambler again. So glad you saved that original paint. Good looking Scrambler. :cheers:
 
Interesting, in a bad way. I was just coming on the forum to look for advice on my AMC 20 problem, which sounds just like Bobby described. I was pulling out of a parking lot Thursday, let out on the clutch, hear the grind, and my jeep barely moved. Fortunately traffic was light. I reversed back into the parking lot. Tried again to go forward, this time with a lot less power. Still grinding but able to move. Tried to limp home, 20 miles away, but in the stop and go traffic that proved foolish. Pulled into a gas station, and while filling the tank thought I'd try engaging the front axle and using 4H. That got me home without incident, however I now have to figure out what broke and how to fix it. I'm up for a complete rebuild and upgrade to 1 piece axels, except I don't have the expertise to do the fine adjustment stuff, nor do I have any special tools like a press or pullers, etc. that I may need. I am also up for replacing it with a wide track 30, but what would be the best donor vehicle. I live in Grand Prairie, TX if anyone is close that I can spend some time with and get educated and or call on when I get in over my head. Full disclosure, it didn't just all of a sudden happen. I have been hearing the grinding noise off and on for a while, but couldn't really locate the problem. Although I have taken my jeep off road for hunting, I use it mostly as a daily driver back and forth to work, and it's been reliable up till now. I hope to get time to take things apart to see what broke and post an update. In the meantime, Bobby I’ll be interested in how things go for you.
 
PetesCj-8 said:
I just looked at this thread again cause I wanted to look at Bobbysjeep Scrambler again. So glad you saved that original paint. Good looking Scrambler. :cheers:
Click to expand...

Thanks! It came real close to getting painted right after I bought it.
 
lascrambler,

If your problem is just the axle, you shouldn't have to much trouble tackling the job. Pressing bearings can be done at machine shops, napa parts stores, repair shops and it doesn't cost to much.

Glad the thread is helpful, these are a good group of folks.

I am working long hours the next few days, but I will post an update once I remove the traclok.
 
Well, pulled the other axle and the carrier. The carrier bearings did have some hazing on the races. The only gear damage is the single tooth on the spider gear that broke. So, I will replace the spider gears and clutch packs, along with the carrier bearings. The ring and pinion gear looks good.

Axles, I can replace the drivers side 2pc with a kit that includes seals and bearing, then just seals and bearing for the passenger side for $107 for everything.

OR

I can get a set of 1pc Moser axles for $277. I hate to spend the extra $170 but I'm leaning that way.

Does anyone recommend G2, Alloy, Crown or any of the cheaper 1pc kits? Again, street use only...

Spankrjs, Thanks for the comment about being a pain to remove the carrier with a 20 gallon tank. Before I even tried, I moved my jack stands to the frame, allowing the pumpkin to droop just enough to BARELY clear the tank.

bigwalton, you had a feeling it was gonna turn out like this, didn't you....

Thanks again for the comments so far.
 
That sounds like a good plan (including 1-pc axles).

I inherited the set I had in a used axle before I went to the HD20 I have now, so no significant personal experience to share on brands but I can say that I don't think I've ever heard of issues with any of them on here or elsewhere. Simply the significant difference in construction gets you to the point where the weak spot moves elsewhere I think. They don't have to be ultra-exceptionally well made. :shrug:

Again, street use can be as bad as much offroad abuse and I really think you have the perfect opportunity to build a rear axle that should last forever with your usage here. Sell the decent 2-piece shaft off to recoup some money so someone else can score a spare. For what you do, I can't see holding onto it long once you go to 1-pc axles. Something else will be what snaps. ;)

As for any feeling I had, I just want you to come out of this set for years, however it played out.
 
Getting the one pc axles is putting your money to good use (instead of spending good money on bad). What happens when the other 2 pc axle goes bad then you've spent the same yet never improved the jeep. I have the moser in my cj7 and just installed in the cj8. Never did off road yet and would never really go off road to test them. But I do have a 350 chevy (330 hp) so the extra strength of the axles will hold up to the v8.
 
Okay I got the wheels off and found the driver's side hub has spun on the axle shaft. The passengers side seems to be okay, but I plan to replace both. After talking it over with the wife, budget and all, I plan to go with and single piece kit. I can get a set from Morris 4x4 for $340 but it says they do not work with power lock differential. I assume I don't have that unless it's stock. Tomorrow I'll get the differential open to be sure nothing is busted in there.
 
lascrambler said:
Okay I got the wheels off and found the driver's side hub has spun on the axle shaft. The passengers side seems to be okay, but I plan to replace both. After talking it over with the wife, budget and all, I plan to go with and single piece kit. I can get a set from Morris 4x4 for $340 but it says they do not work with power lock differential. I assume I don't have that unless it's stock. Tomorrow I'll get the differential open to be sure nothing is busted in there.
Click to expand...

Sound like your where I am in the axle department.... I have been doing some research. Also, Power Lock is aftermarket and unlikely.

Arguably, Moser axles are the best on the market. 4WD.com has them right now for $291.99 Then use coupon code RMN5OFF to get an additional 5% off. Total with free shipping is $277.39
http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Drivetrain-Jeep-Axles-Differentials/AMC-Model-20-CJ-Wide-Trac-One-Piece-Axle-Kit.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=237&t_pt=5564&t_pn=GMECJL

On the other end of the spectrum. 4WS.com has Crown one piece kit for $199.95 plus $20 shipping. Total $219.95
http://www.4ws.com/jeep-amc-20-one-piece-axle-kit.html

Both kits have Timken standard size bearings, and according to both company's online instructions they install exactly the same way with bearing spacers.
http://www.moserengineering.com/moser/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/JeepInstructions.pdf
http://www.crownautomotive.net/assets/install/axle/AxleKit-Instructions.pdf

For how I use my Jeep, I think that either would work fine. Let us know what you decide.
 
Last edited:
jammer1 said:
Getting the one pc axles is putting your money to good use (instead of spending good money on bad). What happens when the other 2 pc axle goes bad then you've spent the same yet never improved the jeep. I have the moser in my cj7 and just installed in the cj8. Never did off road yet and would never really go off road to test them. But I do have a 350 chevy (330 hp) so the extra strength of the axles will hold up to the v8.
Click to expand...

Good point.
 
Go with the Mosers:twocents: Its not worth it trying to save a buck or two on important drivetrain components:twocents:

One important note on any pressed on the axle bearing - never use a torch to cut the bearing off, it will weaken the axle shaft:twocents::twocents:

I've installed 5 sets of Moser and Superior axle sets. Make sure you actually check the bearing stick out. Four out of the five sets I installed worked with no machining of the bearing spacer needed. The set I put in JeepAddicts white Jamboree required machining the spacers down to get the bearing stick out correct:shrug:

Yep, 20 gallon tank sucks for pulling the differential out:thumbsup::wave:
 
I order the Moser 1 piece axles. I had a problem with disconnecting the brake line from the manifold mounted to the axle housing and rounded off the fitting. What is the best fix for this?
 
The right way would be cut off about a quarter of an inch of the brake line then replace the nut then re-flare the brake line. But I must admit I have owned vehicles that required a vice grip to remove brake lines or bleed breaks. And since it is done so seldom I never repaired.
 
Last edited:
Okay I'll have a go at repairing the tube. Hope to have the axle out tonight to start clean up and disassembly.


 
Before you cut you brake line, you may want to checkout some how to videos on YouTube. There are some specialty tools required that can be expensive.
 
Got the axle off. Wasted too much time Saturday trying to find a hub puller. Nothing I borrowed or looked to buy would fit. If it was wide enough it was too shallow. If it was deep enough it was too narrow for the lug pattern. Finally I took off the slave cylinder which gave me access to the back side of the hub. From there I knock out the axle with a brass drift. Now I just have to bust off the outer bearing to get the brake support plate and axle end cap. Do I need to do anything inside the differential? I'd like to have the housing cleaned and powder coated or painted. It may not be worth all the trouble and expense. I could just take a wire wheel it and use a spray can. Other than cleaning and painting, I'm just waiting on parts.


 
So everything is cleaned up and I'm ready to install the new 1 piece axles. However, the instruction sheet that came with the axles doesn't mention the shims in the installation sequence. It that because they are no longer needed, or is this an unintentional omission? If required, do I just assume they are correct or is there an end play measurement I should attempt to achieve?
 
Thanks Bobby. I'm planning to take my axle to a local shop to get all the pressing done. I certainly don't want to pull the spacer ring if the dimension is wrong. Hope to have the axle back together by the end of next week, if not this weekend.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top