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Another Waggy/J truck D44 SUA steering thread.

sdsupilot

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
City
OKC
State
OK
I am inching closer to installing my narrowed J10 dana 44. Steering is apparently quite an issue with this setup. I have read all kinds of threads about different options.

I am planning on running a Y link steering setup similar to a stock waggy. I will either run a factory waggy pitman or an Astro reamed to stock waggy/gm taper.

I want to avoid the issue of tie rod/pitman arm contact. I think with the MORE mount moving my steering box 1 1/4” forward, plus some tie rod bending should alleviate the issue.

I think something like this might work. I don’t think I would need

73E09010-B92D-4C2C-9A7C-05314ADDFEFC.jpeg

Obviously it might take some strength out of the tie rod, but this is 1” thick solid steel.
67B79EC3-DFF8-4592-A15D-5F6FD43F7A8D.jpeg

Am I crazy, or is this plausible?
 
I am SOA on GM D44, thicker high steer arm, MORE 1-1/4" bracket, waggy pitman, 1 ton TRE, drag link and tie rod are perfectly parallel to one another. I think you would be happier with crossover steering than Y-link.
 
sdsupilot said:
I am planning on running a Y link steering setup similar to a stock waggy. I will either run a factory waggy pitman or an Astro reamed to stock waggy/gm taper.

Am I crazy, or is this plausible?
Click to expand...

To get the best answer you should tell us what size tire and how much lift? There is more than one way to skin a cat and your personal info is what makes on way better or worse.

Jeeper_4_Life is right that you will be happier with a flat/parallel set up. However on my current build I'm planning on starting with a similar setup. The waggy axle is already 4 inches narrower than the J10 that will be narrowed 4.5 inches, so it is close. I'm staying SUA and not that much lift; space will be an issue. Finally, is just a personal reason, I run around with people driving Grand Wagoneers. I'm familiar with the parts and being able to share a spare part is nice too. Same reason I'm switching to 6-lugs.
 
I have a 4” lift and a set of 33s and 37s. Probably will end up with a 33” for street and 35-37” on H1 double beadlocks for trail duty.

I do think a high steer/crossover would probably be best. But I priced it at $750. Not trying to be cheap at this point. At the same time I have also just got done completely rebuilding both axles.
 
On Copper I did a crossover. Pass D44 drilled for a steering arm, straight to an Astro pitman. No bump steer whatsoever. Only issue was I was still spring under and once the RE springs sagged a bit, the crossover rod would barely rub the bottom of the frame on full compression. SOA or spring over would have eliminated that issue. EB4FA62D-96DE-46AB-94F3-1E4BC796529B.jpeg8E95F149-2270-4854-8FE4-0D4E4365A7D4.jpeg
 
You could do a setup like Randyzzz and just do the passenger arm with single hole. Parts mike sells the arms for $90 $120 depending on what type you might need. Why Not Customs in Wichita can machine the knuckle. I don't know what he charges, but it is probably <$100 or you could ship your knuckle to parts mike and they would machine it for $55 according to their website. You might have someone there local that could do it as well? If you do a local place have the arm to give them with the knuckle. If doing true high steer then it is a lot more $. I think if you are going to stay SUA then that would be the way to go. If you are going to ever do SOA and want full high steer you may want to buy the arm with both holes. Parts mike is pretty helpful if you call them up and tell them what you are wanting to do and they will know what to sell you.
 
Jeeper_4_Life said:
You could do a setup like Randyzzz and just do the passenger arm with single hole. Parts mike sells the arms for $90 $120 depending on what type you might need. Why Not Customs in Wichita can machine the knuckle. I don't know what he charges, but it is probably <$100 or you could ship your knuckle to parts mike and they would machine it for $55 according to their website. You might have someone there local that could do it as well? If you do a local place have the arm to give them with the knuckle. If doing true high steer then it is a lot more $. I think if you are going to stay SUA then that would be the way to go. If you are going to ever do SOA and want full high steer you may want to buy the arm with both holes. Parts mike is pretty helpful if you call them up and tell them what you are wanting to do and they will know what to sell you.
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Pretty much what I did. I even sent my right knuckle to Parts Mike.
 
Crossover is a good option. Unfortunately since my J10 dana 44 is a 1978, it doesn't have flat top knuckles. By the time I would source, ship, machine and return... I think the estimate parts mike gave is pretty reasonable.
 
On my sisters jeep we narrowed a j10 axle 4 inches. barnes 1 ton Y link steering to 3" drop pitman arm. Drilled out the pitman arm and put the tie rod on top of the pitman. Works good with only slight contact of the tie rod and pitman arm at full left turn.

It has a HD steering box mount but i cant remember if we moved it forward or not.
 
sdsupilot said:
Crossover is a good option. Unfortunately since my J10 dana 44 is a 1978, it doesn't have flat top knuckles. By the time I would source, ship, machine and return... I think the estimate parts mike gave is pretty reasonable.
Click to expand...
I have a set of D44 flat top knuckles. Only the drivers side is drilled, however. They came off a late 70’s GM. I would be interested in selling them if you want them.

i actually had a thread up trying to sell them a while back. I remember several conversations about them , can’t remember with who, however. Anyways, if you want them, $100 shipped in a flat rate box.

 
Sometimes it is easier to get the right parts vs scrounging around the parts stash...

Called parts mike and got the more or less standard CJ crossover steering setup. Looks pretty good overall. I may have to get a slightly longer pitman as I run out of steering box travel before hitting the knuckle stops. That said, the steering angle looks crazy compared to what I had before.

4820C578-AD48-4F7D-AB9D-F3DACA4BD3E9.jpeg
 
I took it out for the first wheeling trip of the year. I am having some light contact between the TRE at the pitman arm and the tie rod. Looks like I will need to move my steering box forward after all.

4D8C972B-E7B2-463F-80A3-9637426DADA2.jpeg

The other option would be to get a “top down” vs “bottom up” pitman. Honestly don’t know what is the best. Took it to a buddy’s place and flexed it out on a dirt pile. I would run into the same passenger side drag link clearance problem as he did.

So I ordered the MORE mount, we will see.
 
I am running a J10 also cut down 4 inches. I used chevy one ton tie rods and an astro pitman.IMG_2233.JPEGIMG_2236.JPEG
 
That is the exact setup I was thinking of running. That said, either option needs the steering box moved forward (at least in my case). My 4" springs have settled a little and are pretty flexible. It seems most of my current issue is just for big straight on bumps.
 
As an update… buying Randy’s knuckles would have been the best bet. That along with full high steer would have prevented some headaches.

I did get the more relocation mount. It helped but also hurt. In order to maintain the factory sway bar more clocks the pitman slightly down from the factory position. Hindsight being what it is - I would have been better off to make my own steering box mount.

After the more mount clearance was improved but I still had light contact between the drag link and tie rod near the differential.

As a test I bought an offset tie rod to see how much of a difference it would make.

Before
371E859E-C873-4AAB-857B-9399CE839B2F.jpeg

After
1AE15580-FF3F-4659-8D80-6FB266D9EB91.jpeg

This actually made more of a difference than I though. Might leave it this way for a while until I rotate the steering box.
 
sdsupilot said:
As an update… buying Randy’s knuckles would have been the best bet. That along with full high steer would have prevented some headaches.

I did get the more relocation mount. It helped but also hurt. In order to maintain the factory sway bar more clocks the pitman slightly down from the factory position. Hindsight being what it is - I would have been better off to make my own steering box mount.

After the more mount clearance was improved but I still had light contact between the drag link and tie rod near the differential.

As a test I bought an offset tie rod to see how much of a difference it would make.

Before
View attachment 103020

After
View attachment 103021

This actually made more of a difference than I though. Might leave it this way for a while until I rotate the steering box.
Click to expand...
I still have those knuckles, if anyone is interested. I also have the full setup from spindles out from a Ford F150, in case someone wants to change a 6 lug D44 to a 5 Lug. I think theres a couple of the small bearing GM spindles too. Weighs a ton though- shipping would be brutal. I need to start clearing out this stuff in case the house sells. But with the current market condition and interest rates, I'm not holding my breath.
 
Randyzzz said:
I still have those knuckles, if anyone is interested. I also have the full setup from spindles out from a Ford F150, in case someone wants to change a 6 lug D44 to a 5 Lug. I think theres a couple of the small bearing GM spindles too. Weighs a ton though- shipping would be brutal. I need to start clearing out this stuff in case the house sells. But with the current market condition and interest rates, I'm not holding my breath.
Click to expand...

That would be a great deal for someone. They could run 5, 6 or 8 lug options. I hope this info helps someone on their swap. Getting the steering to work well and not have interference was a bigger process than I though.
 
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