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astro van pitman arm info

T

TravelnMan

Legacy Registered User
City
Granby
State
CT
Does anyone know how long the astro van pitman arm is center to center.

I would like to get one but I'm reluctant to without knowing how long it is. I did a crossover setup on a D44 and need a flat arm approx 6.25" long.

Thanks
Brian
 
It appears to be 6.25" center to center, I have one on my Scrambler.
IMG_0291-1.jpg
 
John- From your pic it looks like you've got a similar situation to mine- the pitman arm is too close to the tie tod, it will hit at full compression straight ahead. Has that been a problem or is it just the angle of the picture? I have a Waggy arm currently with a little drop, was thinking of going flat like the Astro or having a Sams arm drilled to pit the tie rod on the top...
 
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Randyzzz said:
John- From your pic it looks like you've got a similar situation to mine- the pitman arm is too close to the tie tod, it will hit at full compression straight ahead. Has that been a problem or is it just the angle of the picture? I have a Waggy arm currently with a little drop, was thinking of going flat like the Astro or having a Sams arm frilled to pit the tie rod on the top...
Click to expand...

Randy, you're right....I've tried 3 or 4 different pitman arms. The Astro arm has been the best solution. I've already moved the box forward 1.25". I run a flat top knuckle on the right side with a high steer arm for the drag link. My turn radius is great. It rare for the arm to hit the tie rod, but I know it can under the right conditions. More drop in the arm only makes it worse.

The Astro arm is totally flat and really thick. You can ream it for whatever end you're using and still have plenty of metal left. The reason for those washers is that mine was reamed for a Chevy tie rod end, I instructed them to do it to a Jeep Waggy end. They didn't think they were different. I've wanted to pick up another and do it right, but it's tight with no play.
 
Sounds like our steering setups are exactly the same. I wonder if the Astro arm could be reamed to flip the rod to the top? I know Parts Mike shows a heavy undrilled arm, but they are always out of stock...

Hmm...TK1 Racing has a totally flat arm tapered for GM for $45.00...

Maybe I'll try and redrill my stock arm from the top for mockup purposes only to see if everything clears that way before I make any decisions...
 
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if you get one from a salage yard...be sure and pull the hydraulic brake booster too...it is one of the best brake upgrades you can get
 
Just some info for those out there.

On my D44 I currently have the waggy arm (6.75" center to center with a 1" drop) with a 3/4T tie rod going in from the top. The steering box is moved forward 1.25" or so with an aftermarket steering brace but the pitman arm is still close to the tie rod.

I've measured and shortening the pitman arm by a 1/2" will not affect my turning radius

John N - thanks for the picture - is that a 1/2 to 5/8" taper tierod end going into your pitman arm? If so I'd be able to ream it from the top to accept the 3/4 - 5/8" TRE.

Thanks
Brian
 
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TravelnMan said:
John N - thanks for the picture - is that a 1/2 to 5/8" taper tierod end going into your pitman arm? If so I'd be able to ream it from the top to accept the 3/4 - 5/8" TRE.

Thanks
Brian
Click to expand...

I really don't remember what the taper is. Parts Mike did it for me and it's been several years since it was done. I did use a Waggy arm for a while, my turn radius was good, but I went shorter to try and keep it off the tie rod.
 
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TravelnMan said:
Just some info for those out there.

On my D44 I currently have the waggy arm (6.75" center to center with a 1" drop) with a 3/4T tie rod going in from the top. The steering box is moved forward 1.25" or so with an aftermarket steering brace but the pitman arm is still close to the tie rod.



Thanks
Brian
Click to expand...


So, you're running a waggy arm re-tapered from the top? That might be a low $ solution for me...
 
So, you're running a waggy arm re-tapered from the top? That might be a low $ solution for me...
Click to expand...

I am - it'll still contact when the suspension flexes though. I'll take a pic, it may be a day or so until I post it though.
 
Hmm...so a flat arm with the end on top might be called for.

Interesting...your box is moved forward an inch, mine is stock position and the tie rod interference looks like the same place.
 
Sorry for the thread necro, but does anyone have a part # or the year and model of the Astro van these come off of?

I removed 2" of lift springs for my SOA and need to run a flat TRE tapered pitman arm... and I hear these bolt onto our boxes without any changes?
 
They do require modification. The tapered end for the drag link is quite small and will need to be teamed to the size you want. The box end has the indexing splines in the wrong places for a Jeep, they’ll need to be cut and tapered with a triangle file. Nothing too difficult, just be aware.
 
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