
Randyzzz said:Jeepskate- those are some brackets I built myself, pre plasma and bender days. I am going to redo the whole thing sometime. But...I basically copied the Rockhard design- http://www.rockhard4x4parts.com/
I ran the windshield hoop into some brackets on 3/16 plate (that's as thick as I could go and still close the hard doors, behind the dash is a matching plate sandwiching the dash plate and cowl lip, and a tube going down to a floor plate. Eventually the floor plate will bolt into my rocker guards, tying the whole thing together. And, the JP dash is 3/16 thick, so if you used a stock dash the plates could be 1/4 and still fit.
jscherb, been looking for this kinda deal. Do you have a link to the guy's eBay site?Basic dash plate is stainless steel, made by a guy who sells stainless dashes on ebay.

ibscrmbln said:Warning. An issue is that behind the dash is duct work for your defroster. That is why there is kind of a void or blank area above the guages. You can not keep the original defroster and use that area for guages.
Later, Ken
Randyzzz said:I had to build custom ducting to accomodate my gauge placement. I used a shop vac hose and pvc fittings. It works great, although I do have a blazer blowewr motor upgrade. One of my favorite mods was to put seperate knobs from a Waggy on my steering column bezel. Thses knobs(and cables) now control the drivers side vent and the passenger side airbox vent seperately. I can get cool air from one or both sides, or by opening the pass box vent partially without opening the cowl vent, I can get true recirc air to the heater, and really cook!