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Dammit! Transfer Case is leaking like a sieve. Please help me as I remove it.

DirtyB said:
You don't need to pull all of that apart to change the seals. If you don't have a problem with the gearing or bearings, don't mess with it. You can change the seals from the "outside" of the box.
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I'm pretty sure that I m only leaking at the rear output seal and the where the Tcase and trans hook together. If other seals are working, why would I mess with them?
 
I'm afraid that if I remove all the silicon around the intermediate shaft, and then tear the Tcase apart I'll find out that for whatever reason the o-ring wont seal properly and that short of a complete rebuild or a complete replacement housing I'll just end up siliconing the outside again and be back where I started. Besides after sitting all night, it doesnt appear to be leaking. I think I am only leaking at the rear output and the where the transmission and Tcase couple together.
 
bobbysjeep said:
Are you recommending a transfer case up restoration. You gotta start somewhere.
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I just saying there is a "might as well" option. I certainly don't pull my transfer case everyday, but if I do, "might as well" get rid of the wire nuts and put in something better like http://www.weatherpack.com or "might as well" change the oil in this thing, and the transmission while I'm here, probably the diffs as well. If I've pulled the drive shaft and forgot to index it, "might as well" upgrade it. Might as well replace the seals, check the u-joints, fix any rust hanging around, drink a few beers, and keep working on this thing on my picnic table.
 
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While you have the shifter off I would go ahead and twin stick it. Mine is from JB Fabrication and was around $100 including the new boot. So simple to install and it allows rear wheel low range and front wheel low range in addition to your normal 4hi, 4lo and 2hi. It took less than fifteen minutes to do compared to five putting the old one back on, plus my old shifter was so sloppy it was kind of embarrassing.
 
rustycrawler said:
I just saying there is a "might as well" option. I certainly don't pull my transfer case everyday, but if I do, "might as well" get rid of the wire nuts and put in something better like http://www.weatherpack.com or "might as well" change the oil in this thing, and the transmission while I'm here, probably the diffs as well. If I've pulled the drive shaft and forgot to index it, "might as well" upgrade it. Might as well replace the seals, check the u-joints, fix any rust hanging around, drink a few beers, and keep working on this thing on my picnic table.
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What do you mean by index the drive shaft? Did I not do something tht I should have when I disconnected them from the Tcase?
 
Indexing just means making marks on both the drive shaft and yoke to be sure you attach them the same way they came off. They're kind of harmonically balanced after 30 years on the jeep, and to misalign them might cause chattering.

Don't worry about it too much, it might be a good time to replace the U-joints which would alleviate the problem. $25 a pop x 4. Easy job, piece of mind. Welcome to Jeep CJ 101: any problem immediately leads to 5+ new problems to address.
 
HAHAHA You started off with a leaking seal and you're in for over a $1000 worth of upgrades. It always happens this way.

Change all of the main lip seals. If one was leaking then you can imagine that the others don't have much life left. Pull the covers and put some black permatex. I hear what you're saying about the little o-ring. Might not want to open that can of worms.
 
You really want to use an arbor press to service the internals of your D300 (press fit bearings).
If it's working okay in general, I'm with you about just fixing the evident leaks and calling it a day (if it aint broke...).

As for the reverse wires/plug, it should plug into the transmission (probably on the top near the shifter). If you pull out the tunnel access cover you should be able to see the posts that it connects to. BTW, removing the access cover plate is standard procedure, it would have probably made it easier to remove the TC and shifter.

Also, I was wondering how you have the transmission supported with the skid-plate removed (don't see any jack stands, blocks, etc...).
 
jims chop shop said:
I have rebuilt two ax15 transmissions
gyvedemu-1.jpg

u2u8adeg-1.jpg

But have not tried to open up a 300 yet
I paid a transmission shop $100 to do my last one

I really think your major leak is at the back of the Trans. !
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Got you beat - I have 4 blown up T5's in the garage right now:crazy::crazy::cheers:

I gots one of them thar fancy Ax15's on the floor, need to get it in the Jeep:D
 
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The black plug with two brass pins should be the reverse switch that your plug just pushes onto. The bolt above and just forward of the reverse plug is NOT a drain/fill plug. It has a clip inside that will break if it's unscrewed.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1392402333.757819.jpg

I believe THIS should be the same with your T5.
 
This is why I don't do mechanical stuff, I didn't know to mark the drivelines (and I did notice they have some weights on them) and I didnt know to block the transmission. Anyone want to buy a jeep? Can't promise it will run right, but I think I'm just going to screw it up.
 
looks like a transfer case, I dont see an wear or chipping on any of the teeth and how the heck do you get the yokes to come off!20140214_120626_resized.jpg20140214_120656_resized.jpg
 
maybe you should buy a haynes or chilton manual and do some research so you have something to go by. im not saying there the best books but they do help...
 
Now that you have the main shaft nut off, the yolk should come off pretty easy. Tap it with a rubber mallet. A steering wheel puller (Jim) works also, but really shouldn't be necessary.
 
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