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Fuel System

D

Dutchmcl95

Member
City
janesville
State
WI
Does anyone have information regarding the rollover check valve and the liquid check valve in the fuel system. My question is do I need to run these systems for the fuel system to operate properly. I am in the middle of a frame off project and have swapped to a Chevy V8.
 
I have always left them installed along with then charcoal canister. That way the fuel vapors stay captured and don’t stink up the garage. If you eliminate them, I think you need to run a vented gas cap to allow for vapor expansion.
 
Thank you Randy. now to just find all of the parts for that system. I checked out your thread great build you have there!!!
 
20 gallon tank or 15 gallon?

15 Gallon, MTS Company - JLCV-1

20 Gallon, MTS Company - EMSV-1

The 15 gallon is not like the OEM, just the best alternative currently available. The 20 gallon is like the OEM.

MTS COMPANY, L.C. - Jeep Accessories

Liquid Check Valve
www.mtscompany.com
 
Im planning on running the 15 gallon stock tank. I may upgrade to the 20 gallon since have to weld a section in that area anyway.
 
There is no frame difference between the 15 gallon and 20 gallon OEM tanks. Just different skid plates that hold the tanks.
 
Dutchmcl95 said:
Does anyone have an opinion about solid gas lines vs. steel braided lines?
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I went stainless braided PTFE lines. They are not damaged by the current fuel blends and they’re really easy to work with. Stay away from rubber lined stainless braid.

I have also used OEM style nylon lines. Really easy to work with.

Steel is great but a pain to get it “just perfect”.
 
Interceptor said:
What about aluminum lines that summit sells?
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If I'm not mistaken, ethanol corrodes aluminum pretty fiercely, especially if water or high temps are present. I'd say no on the aluminum hardline, personally. I'd stick with a stainless or ni-copp style for metal hard line.
 
Read up on the PTFE line, seems to be the safe easy route.
I had use the aluminum kit on a 88 Mustang years ago.
 
I will use 3/8 nylon fuel line. Easy to work with and fittings are over the counter. Have the tool that pushes the fitting into the tubing...for me it can't be easier than than that especially if going the fuel injection route.. Just need to consider exhaust and hot temps when determining a route. Also looking into middle 90's OEM Wrangler fuel lines. SS and rubber set up, factory fuel filter, etc. Guess work has been done.
 
Interceptor said:
What about aluminum lines that summit sells?
Click to expand...
Aluminum has several weaknesses. Like 93_Fummins said, ethanol corrodes it. But the worst issue, especially on a Jeep, is that vibration and flexing can cause it to crack. I can’t remember if it work hardens or what the issue is, but although it’s easy to work with it’s a big no-no on a driver.

I used the nylon lines in Copper. 30k miles and no issues, they’re super easy to work with, and with pressed in fittings and o-ring connections they don’t leak. And, the tool to put them together isn’t that expensive- but if you have a flaring tool block and a caulking gun you can make your own tool.

On Red I went with stainless braid PTFE. I measured and ordered the lines pre-made. They were not that much more than doing it myself, and the fittings looked great. Plus they are pressure tested before being shipped. Had them in a week. I can’t remember the name of the place, I’ll check my build thread. They were super easy to install. They have better heat resistance than the nylon lines, but you still should sleeve them with heat shield close to the exhaust.
 
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