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Hayduke's Operation: Scrambled Scrambler

Hayduke said:
(y) Warm crotch air !!!

I'm thinking of starting over with a Vintage Air system or the like.
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I'm installing a Vintage air system in my build, and I know Dennis has one in Stump Jumper that he is happy with. If you install it centered you pretty much need to close off the cowl vent, and there's no room for a radio unless it's one of those Retro Sound thin ones. Or just remote mount the tunes in a console.
 
Should I attempt part of the body work myself?

Has anyone used a 'straight line air sander'? I heard online they can be tricky or require skill to use, but I can't find decent instructions on how to use one?
 
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Got the welding pretty much finished I think...

I'm prepping the bottom inside of the panel for POR-15 to seal it up now.

CJ8 weld.jpg

Rough ground down and did the backside:

back weld.jpg

My concern is if I have to much empty space in the flange joint to fill with body filler. Should I add weld dots here or try to burn in tiny strips of metal? I'm not sure how one is supposed to work this? I don't want thick pieces of bondo to pop later. The section that concerns me is at the red arrow.

back weld 2 arrow.jpg

Anyone know how best to handle this?
 
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I have used an inline sander, wasn't much of a fan. They will help you flatten an area. I think a DA gets the surface flat enough for a jeep.

On the seam, I would fill with weld until it is at least level to the surface of the panel. Then grind flat with a flap disc. Its hard to tell depth of the seam from pictures. The trouble with butt welding is that if it isn't solid you will likely get cracks.
 
I am NO expert by any means but have glued seams and used filler with no issues...don't think it would crack and flake off unless something was being attached to it that would cause pressure to the seam. Found using masking tape staged out top of and bottom of repair helped fill and then help taper the bondo out.
 
Thanks, I filled the trench with spot welds so it will be closer to level. I then started painting the bottom of the tub with POR-15. Then I'll start body work. May try tiger hair followed by body filler.
 
Had a big weekend Jeep project parts wise, I picked up a 2003 Chevy 5.3 LS (L59), it has 167K on it. Also got matching 4L60 trans and transfer case.

5.3 L.jpg

I don't want to tear into this too far before installing it, but I was told I should reseal to I don't have leaks. What do you think I should do before install it? (oil pan, valve covers, intake?)

5.3 RGT.jpg

I want to install it and see what power it makes before rebuild, so can determine if it needs more power (cam, etc.)

5.3 torq Con.jpg

If I tear into it too far I'll get carried away and it could look like the 4.0L I built for my Comanche:

4.0L.jpg

Or my daily driver I had to replace a rod in:

3L MB.jpg

What do you think I should do before installing it? Hopefully someone who's done a 5.3 will respond...
 
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I had a 2001 or 02 5.3 in a Tahoe for years. The only thing I would consider replacing would be the intake manifold gaskets. Early 5.3s did have issues, but were corrected with a felpro replacement gasket. Symptoms of this leaky intake manifold gasket was rough idle on startup, would go away as it warms up. It would probably be easier to do on the stand than in the jeep. The other thing people recommend changing at the same time are the knock sensors that sit under the intake plenum. I didn't change mine, your mileage may vary...

The only other issue I had with that engine was a high hot idle caused by a chunk of carbon holding the EGR slightly open.
 
Thanks, I'm planning on doing the intake gasket because I can see some oil in the intake. I'm eager to get peoples feedback on what should be done on the stand vs. in the vehicle, as I will likely do a refresh/rebuild down the road as a winter project.

Is there a specific intake gasket I need, or just any one for a 5.3?
 
Great project. About 20 years ago I was in Moab, rented a Scrambler. Loved it. I previously had a CJ5. I love that there was room in the back for my dog and all our camping gear! Took it on some gnarly trails. I decided I wanted one. Got home, bought someone else's pile of parts and rolling chassis. Now been driving it for about 8 years! Still upgrading, in fact right now it's going into "Phase 2"..!
 
On the 5.3, I wouldn’t replace anything that’s not leaking. As far as the intake gaskets, IIRC the orange gaskets were the leakers, the green ones were the good ones. But, on the stand the intake gaskets are super easy, so why not. And do check the knock sensors while you’re in there.
 
Hello, it's been a long time! Frame is complete and body is near complete. Almost all in green primer. Tub bottom is all in POR15 and then primed. tub Internal channels are all coated in eastwood internal frame coating. I'm trying to finish this in amateur show quality. 100's of hours in on this now with not much left to go.

I have not been making much progress as I have a eye not working well. Really slowing down progress and takes the fun out of working on it. I'm thinking about selling the project as I'm not sure I can complete it.. I have not deceided yet, but may be asking the best way to sell the project or part it out... :cautious:
 

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I sure hope you finish it versus selling but only you can decide
 
Hayduke said:
Hello, it's been a long time! Frame is complete and body is near complete. Almost all in green primer. Tub bottom is all in POR15 and then primed. tub Internal channels are all coated in eastwood internal frame coating. I'm trying to finish this in amateur show quality. 100's of hours in on this now with not much left to go.

I have not been making much progress as I have an eye not working well. Really slowing down progress and takes the fun out of working on it. I'm thinking about selling the project as I'm not sure I can complete it.. I have not deceided yet, but may be asking the best way to sell the project or part it out... :cautious:
Click to expand...
Where is it located?
 
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