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It's time to start making some changes.....

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I like the pink string. [emoji7]

I was wondering if the coils were gonna get tossed in favor of coilovers. [emoji41]


 
I was already talking about doing some pro-street burnouts with it today. 😆

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Dennis, this pic is just for you-

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Father in law hoards low mileage LSX engines.

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Forgive me if you already covered this.....

Why did you link the back first?

Ore you dong the front too?


 
I will eventually link both front and rear on the Jeep. I started with the rear first because it's probably a little easier to deal with for clearances than the front end. The issues that I had with the leaf springs is that they grew in length as they compressed and to get suspension travel you have to offset the axle forward so the tire will go into the wheel well. With soft leaf springs, you also run into rear steer because when you go around a turn one spring compressors as the other one unloads and that causes some weird driveability issues especially if you have a locker in the rear. Here's a pic of how much the rear axle is pushed forward to get the travel that I had.

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It sure looks a lot better without the leafs hanging out the back side now.

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I'm a noob on links, besides installing Meatalcloak on my LJR.

So... Why is the axle bridge not closer to third member?

Pics look like could get it 2 to 3" closer so U would have more clearance to body tub on full bump.

I moved rear axle forward 2" on Mud Scrambler but haven't tested to see if I will have to lower bump stops. I'm already wanting 35" as my buddies have 35-40" on their night hunting stuff.

Really liking your low stance 35" dual purpose rig.
Already nicest one that I ever remember and getting so much better !

Oh, BTW did it handle decent at freeway speeds?
 
It always handled well at speeds without any issue. With the front out another 2" and the rear the same, the longer wheelbase was always nice.

The axle truss really needed to be on the tubes and not necessarily on the third member. I had to talk myself out of welding some tabs on the top of the housing to take the easy way out but I couldn't do it. The Ford housings are only 1/8" thick so I really didn't want to take any chances on shredding the housing apart. The Rock Krawler truss really worked perfectly for what I had going on with mine. You need as much verticle separation between the upper and the lower links as you can get because that is the only thing keeping the axle from twisting from the tires rotating and getting traction. The best way to think about it is that it's like having a 2ft pry bar trying to keep something from rotating and having a 5ft prybar doing the same. The more HP you have(and the usage of it), the more separation you need. The problem is that there are space constraints because of the bed floor above it. I gave up a little up travel but not really. The chances of my Jeep seeing full compression on both sides would be extremely rare since I don't jump it. It will see full compression on one tire at a time though. When that happens, the axle will travel in an arc off of the bump stops so being 3" off of the wheel wells should be about perfect. The problem is that I'm eyeballing some 37's which is going to mess EVERYTHING up.......
 
mysunnshine said:
Dennis, this pic is just for you-

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Father in law hoards low mileage LSX engines.

Sent from my SM-G920V
Click to expand...

I'm thinking about buying me two of those lifts to go with my 2 post lift.
Looking at those engines made me...you know.
 
This is the truss I installed on Stump Jumper on my stock rear end with 4.10 gears. So far after almost 4,000 miles it's still holding up to the 400HP LS1.
 

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After a couple of beers and some staring, I have found a solution for the coilovers. With a little bit of tweaking and creative modifications, I'm pretty sure that I can fit these 12" travel coilovers in there and retain my up travel. The up side is that I'll figure out how to mount my hydraulic bump stops while I'm at it. The pic as it sits now should be about where the compression stop will be.

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Limit droop? It should flex like a hooker on muscle relaxers.... 😉

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mysunnshine said:
Limit droop? It should flex like a hooker on muscle relaxers.... [emoji6]

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Click to expand...

Lol... or maybe yikes!?! I'm not sure if that's such a good visual. At least I'm my head. Haha. And yes, it should flex well, I was just wondering how much down travel your expecting since most of this glorious chance has focused on stuffing?


 
I just don't want to give up the up travel so I'm going to concentrate on making sure that the tire goes into the wheel well when it articulates. Besides, it looks cool with the tire stuffed up in there. About 4" down travel from here will be ride height so I'll still have 8" more droop at the shock before it tops out. Because it's on an arc, I'll have a bit more travel than that at the tire. My guess is that I should be able to get a tire at least 32-36" off the ground when articulating. I dunno.....We will see.... Just remember that I'm building a Jeep that is 90% street use and not a rock buggy.
 
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