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It's time to start making some changes.....

That exhaust looks "fun"

What size TK1 did you get? I've got a 7/8" front and a 48" long 1" in the rear. 2 years abuse and still love them.
 
I am using a 42" long 1" diameter bar with 16" arms. I have not flexed it yet and hope that it will not effect the flex much. I'll find that out this weekend after I finish the exhaust system and get done building the shocks. Yea, I have VERY little room for the exhaust. I can't tolerate turn downs so I have to run a tailpipe too. :)
 
I keep cranking away at it and it keeps getting closer. I got the aux trans cooler remounted after displacing it with the link mounting. The exhaust is all done except for the tailpipe hanger. There really is no more "spare" room underneath now. I have about 1" of room before and after the muffler when the suspension is compressed. I didn't like how it was routed previously next to the driveshaft so I started over with much better results this time. I can't do turn downs either because I don't like smelling the CO and getting blowing dust everywhere. Previously, I had a 20" glasspack in front of a Magnaflow muffler before and it was just a touch on the noisy side for me. Because of room, I put a pair of 100CPI non-coated metallic substrates(cats structure but with no chemicals) in this time. In reality, I probably should have gone up to at least some 200cpi's because the noise levels now are pretty loud. It's funny though, we have a LJ in the shop right now with a 6.0L and the same exhaust and it's pretty quiet. Mine is easily 30-40% louder and my guess is that the camshaft is bleeding off some cylinder pressure. That really is the only difference. I'll make some changes in it when I get back from EJS but for now it will have to do......




















While i was doing all of that, I put my dad to work building my shocks for me. That's now one more thing off of the list to give me time to get the rest of the stuff done..... :headbang:


 
Looks cool, actually looks like you had a heck of a time routing it. So where in the current system is the cat material located?
 
They are located in the front straight section about 20" apart from each other to disrupt the sound waves. The OD of the substrates are an exact fit to the ID of my 3" pipe.
 
mysunnshine said:
They are located in the front straight section about 20" apart from each other to disrupt the sound waves. The OD of the substrates are an exact fit to the ID of my 3" pipe.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I'll be looking into that.
 
I decided to order a driveshaft from Tom Woods this time to give them a shot since I have not had spectacular luck with driveshafts here in town anymore. As an update, the rings that I used to space out the rear axle bearings 1/8" ended up setting the axle shaft seal lip right in between the shaft and the ring so I not have an axle shaft that leaks oil. Lucky me, I took the axle shaft measurements while they were out and ordered a new "correct" set which will be here for next weekend's installation. I'm so close to driving this thing it's killing me........
 
I've been running Tom's drive shafts for years in just about everything I've built. They've held up to over 850 horsepower. :wave:
 
I had a chance to bleed the rear brakes and take it out for a little ride on Saturday finally. To me, it's as soft as my RE springs that were on there which is good. It's definitely a tighter feel too. Now if I can get this passenger rear shaft to stop hemorrhaging oil I'll be OK. I'm not sure if the reatainer isn't compressing the axle seal enough to swell out the OD of the seal to the housing or what. With the E-brakes in the way it's pretty hard to tell. It's always something..... Since my front axle has some oil tracking from the tubes and my knuckle joints started turning in the shaft ears, it's time to get some good shafts into this thing. I came across a set of shafts with CTM joints this past week for cheap so they are going in before I wheel the snot out of this thing in Moab in April. Now that the list is getting shorter, I need to quiet down this exhaust some more....... With the rear sway bar in place now, my spring rates are all whacked out too. Now it will not transition smoothly and will not flex completely either. Fortunately I have some coil springs to try and hopefully have the rates correct. One last issue is that I have a coil spring separator that is catching on the shock body as the springs compress. It was exciting to drive it the first time and hit a "good" bump and then about a second after the compression I get a loud bang as the coil slider releases and lets the spring back. There are some cool-guy sliders out there from All German Motorsports but they are $120/each...... crazy........
 
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So I decided to just bone up for some new shafts from Moser to save some time to fix my seal "modification" for the axle flange offset. As usual with anything that I have somebody else do for me, I get jammed. Moser decided to not drill an access hole into the flange to tighten the bearing retainer. With the Explorer style E-brakes, the shoes are all up in the way so there is no access from the side. So thanks to Moser, a two hour job turns into 3.5 hours because drilling a 1" hole into hardened shafts is no fun by hand.

I also lightened up the spring rates to hopefully get the sway bar to work with the suspension but that was a no-go. The bar feels great for normal street driving but limits my travel at the wheel well to about 6" which is a deal breaker. For now, I'm going to just build a disconnect for the link so I can wheel it for EJS and deal with this issue later. I also have some 14" springs now and I'm going to put them on this weekend to hopefully get away from the coil bind I'm running into. Other than that, it drives pretty nice. I have to shorten the travel for the bump stops because they hit way too early on "normal" driving. When they hit the pad, they make lots of noise too. I'll shorten the travel form 4" to 2" and it'll be all good. I also have to build some angled pads at the side of the existing axle pads so I can control the up travel with the hydraulic bumps instead of shock "bumpers". Crawling is super slow speed but I really don't want the shocks to be the travel limiter.

My list is getting shorter but EJS is around the corner so I gotta really get cranking. With me only working on the Jeep on Saturdays, I really only have about 4 days to finish this thing. The weekend before we leave to go to EJS, I have an out of town wedding to go to also......Grrrrr Bad timing....... Oh well. It's just about wheelable as it sits other than putting a cat in the exhaust to quiet it down and install my steering box bracket to move the box forward since my tie rod hits the pitman arm at flexed compression of the front end. That's this weekends Pandora's box to look forward to........
 



 

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The additional cat converter is now installed and the entire exhaust is now out so I can drop it off to get ceramic coated to dissipate some exhaust heat and get rid of the header wrap.


 
I also took apart the front end to replace the inner axle seals and install the CTM joints since the other joints were spinning in the ears. Unfortunately I found out that the initial builder had some stock shafts narrowed and resplined. What screwed me up is that this is a Currie housing and I assumes that they started with hardened shafts but apparently not. Now I have to get some custom shafts ordered tomorrow (31 spline 9" inner/D44 outer) so I can take the front end apart AGAIN to install them. The shafts also are not cut for full circle retainer clips too.... I guess it'll be easier at the shop and not in the parking lot in Moab. I did machine up a cool-guy seal installer however...... :) The money hemorrhage needs to stop........ I'm running out of time too...... After pulling the exhaust at the house today, I have a new appreciation for you all working at your houses. Holy crap this sucks laying on your back working above your head. To add to it, I have sub-standard tools at the house........







 
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