Meet Red, my 81 Restomod Build

[Randyzzz]

Can you show how the warn hub engages this?

What is the difference between intenally and externally splined hubs?

I have superwinch hubs; I know what those look like (I seem to break the little springs)

I went with ARP studs and ultra high end locking washers...

The factory installed CJ hubs perform locking duties within the hub body, torque is transferred from the axle shaft to the hub body. The hub body is secured to the bearing hub with 5 or 6 bolts. All the torque is transferred through these bolts. Without the bolts the hub would rotate freely on the bearing hub. That’s why the bolts tend to loosen and break. Here’s the CJ hub.



The hub conversion kit replaces the bearing hub with one that mimics the stronger design of a D44, for example. The bearing hub has internal splines, and is about 3.5” in diameter. The locking hub has a body with external splines that mates with the bearing hub internal splines. The hub also has an internal splined piece that mates with the axle shaft. There is a third piece that locks the outer body with the inner body when engaged. All torque is transferred through splined components. This is a lot stronger and more secure arrangement. Here’s a cutaway of the Warn setup. In the second picture, 86 is splined to the bearing hub, 87 is splined to the axle, and 89 locks them together when engaged. The first pic is how it all goes together on a CJ axle.

 

[tower210]

Wow!!! That helps alot.

Where does one find that whole assembly? 70s ford dana 44?

 

[Randyzzz]

To use the Ford parts, you would have to swap from the knuckle out, and then change the outer axle shaft. This is a special kit that Warn made. Yukon gear is now making a reproduction.
Also, to use the Ford outers the tie rod ends are different. I have a set of the Ford parts from the knuckles out, just no axle shafts. I had considered going that route but I really wanted to keep the D30 steering. Getting the D44 style steering right on Copper was a bear, I didn’t want to go through that again.

 

[tower210]

Interesting....

https://www.amazon.com/Yukon-Gear-YA-W37132-International/dp/B0078UA8DE

https://www.amazon.com/Yukon-Gear-YA-W61650-International/dp/B0078U9TZM

Only $5 difference... why would someone go internal vs external?

 

[Randyzzz]

Interesting....

https://www.amazon.com/Yukon-Gear-YA-W37132-International/dp/B0078UA8DE

https://www.amazon.com/Yukon-Gear-YA-W61650-International/dp/B0078U9TZM

Only $5 difference... why would someone go internal vs external?

So- both those kits you list do the same thing. The first kit, 37132 is similar to the kit I have. It fits the 27 spline stock D30 axle. The 61650 fits a 30 spline front axle. The only difference is in the locking hub itself. Those are both internal hubs.

 

[Randyzzz]

Just got a picture from the painter- they are going all out!

 

[RRJeep]

Looks promising!

 

[Randyzzz]

We’re getting to my favorite part- reassembly! The frame was painted with black satin epoxy. Over the rolled on base coat it has a texture I really like- not smooth but not really rough either. Next I painted and installed the skid plate adapters. These allowed me to be able to keep the stock skid. And finally the skid plate. It was part of a purchase from a while ago, it is powder coated along with the front axle (and the rear that I’m not using.) the trans mount is the big Energy Suspension GM unit, 3 bolts across the bottom plus 2 for the spacer. Not overbuilt much...Lastly I installed some UHMW spacers for the top front fuel tank support. That’s all for now-

 

[Randyzzz]

I bolted up my MORE shackle hangers this afternoon, and found that the drivers side was about 1/16 from clearing the rivet. No problem- just open up the hole a bit. But, being never satisfied, I started measuring. Long story short- everything is square but the drivers front shackle hanger is 3/16 further forward than the pass side. I remember my dealership days-“ if it’s within 1/4” it’s good.” Well, not to me. I drilled out the rivets- that allowed the hanger to sit back a bit more. Then I slightly notched the passenger side, and the measurements came out equal. Added an additional bolt where the rivet was, and all is well.

 

[CJ7Pilot]

I hope your main hangars are even....

 

[Randyzzz]

I hope your main hangars are even....

I measured from hanger to hanger both straight and in an X. Then I ran a line along the sides of the frame and measured distance at the front. Everything is within 1/16”. What I think happened is something shifted on the jig when the frame‘s threaded inserts were welded in. The distances from the front rivet to the inserts right behind it were off a little from side to side. The easiest solution was to remove the rivets in combination with enlarging the holes. Everything is square now. But in retrospect I can guess this is why the drivers side engine mount sat a bit lower. Maybe the arch of that section of the frame is off a hair.

 

[Randyzzz]

Blown budget...yep, appropriately named. I really didn’t want to cut the frame for the hoses on my power steering. (I have the MORE 1” forward mount.) Instead, I ordered banjo fittings from Pure Choice Motorsports. Just looked at my gearbox and it uses flare type hoses instead of O-rings. Of course, I ordered the CJ O-ring style fittings. So...Just ordered a reman power steering gearbox. Went with the J-truck variable ratio style. Ugh. I’m going to have to start selling some of these spare parts I’m accumulating.

 

[Randyzzz]

Started reassembly yesterday. First the tank, then the rear springs and axle. Those BDS springs are soft! Should ride nice. I forgot how downright nasty that special poly bushing lube is...
I do think either I miscalculated my pinion angle or the axle builder measured different than I do. I had a difficult time explaining that I wanted the pinion offset 1” to drivers, but that came out perfect. However, I wanted the pinion 12* up, and they measure using perch angle not pinion angle. Somehow that translated into the pinion pointing at the trans mount instead of the yoke. Looks like I’ll be adding shims and be putting the longer set of shackles to the back.
This is the part I really enjoy.

 

[Belizeit]

Looking like you are right there on the old AMC assembly line ! Looking beautiful.

 

[Randyzzz]

Not much progress today. There was a retirement party for one of my co-workers. I was informed I might be called back to work June 1st. We shall see.
Anyways, got the front axle mounted up. Also swapped the longer shackles to the rear- they’re only 3/4” longer. Tomorrow I’ll pack the bearings and install the front hubs, and hopefully get the engine back in!

 

[Jeepskate]

Coming together nicely...nice touch with the UHMW spacers. Are those the MORE shackle hangers (I have the old ones from when they were rebadged JKS units)?

 

[jpnmaine]

Very nice. Can't wait to see it rolling. Where did you order the J truck steering gear from? Something I will be looking into. Axle U-bolts bent locally? Your build just persuaded me to center the 9 inch I am working on.

 

[Randyzzz]

Coming together nicely...nice touch with the UHMW spacers. Are those the MORE shackle hangers (I have the old ones from when they were rebadged JKS units)?

Yes, they are the MORE shackle hangers. I like the way they fit, although I did end up drilling out the rivets on the frame in the front and putting a 3rd bolt through the bigger hole with a thick washer.

 

[Randyzzz]

Very nice. Can't wait to see it rolling. Where did you order the J truck steering gear from? Something I will be looking into. Axle U-bolts bent locally? Your build just persuaded me to center the 9 inch I am working on.

I ordered the gearbox form an EBay seller, United Power Steering Plus. He had the best price and was willing to get me a 4 bolt box while everyone else wanted to sell me a 3 bolt box. He also offered a lifetime warranty and provided a shipping label for the core return. I started out with BuyAutoParts but they were trying to tell me a 3 bolt box was stronger than a 4 bolt. However, Borgeson only makes 3 bolt boxes for all applications. Who knows. I feel better with 4 bolts. It will get here next week.

When you do your 9”, be specific about the pinion placement. It took a couple of phone calls to make sure that my pinion was 1” offset from centerline to the drivers side. “Centered” can mean a centered housing with equal length axles- pinion to passenger side, or centered pinion-with unequal length axles. They had a hard time understanding the pinion to the drivers side, it sounded like they built axles mostly for newer Jeeps with the front shaft on the drivers side.

 

[Belizeit]

Oh man, that's a bummer. Work is going to get in the way of " Real ( Jeep ) Work.