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Mikes 81 mongrel scrambler

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Turns out there's another fella doing this. He was the editor and founder of the Canadian 4WD mag for many years. He's working with aqualu to build a scrambler body to fit the JKU frame. Using an LS motor tho. We'll see how these compare at the end. I'd like to get together with him and see them side by side.


 
I am starting to wonder if Jersey's stretched body would go on a JK frame... hmmmm....

cb

That's a good point. I would allow JK frame usage because it's superior underneath but you can ditch the horribly ugly body. Tub is still for sale FYI

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What are you doing for rust prevention between the remaining body and the new outer skin.
 
The patch panels will be welded solid, no way for anything to get in between. Then I think I'll POR 15 the underside, line-x the inside, and paint the exterior orange to match the cowl, fenders and hood.


 
The patch panels will be welded solid, no way for anything to get in between. Then I think I'll POR 15 the underside, line-x the inside, and paint the exterior orange to match the cowl, fenders and hood.

If you did that in Louisiana it would turn into cancer in one year.
 
Where the metal laps over. The humidity here would form between the panels and start rusting immediately.
 
Ah!! We have almost zero humidity here, especially since it's been -20 Celsius for a few weeks already!!


 
Yeah, when my boys are grown, it'll be back to the west coast for me, where I can see the snow in the mountains, and drive to it, but leave it behind!! We get 7 months of winter in Alberta, and I'm tired of it!


 
The patch panels will be welded solid, no way for anything to get in between. Then I think I'll POR 15 the underside, line-x the inside, and paint the exterior orange to match the cowl, fenders and hoo.
I would use epoxy primer. Por 15 doesn't have the greatest bond and is hard (and brittle). Epoxy has a very good bond to the metal and has a window for painting where it doesn't need sanding. Also the epoxy can be top coated usually within a hour or two (check with the tech sheet) to get a better bond between the epoxy and paint. I've used it on my work trucks and shot the paint (on the dry side). When I wet sanded the paint because it was thin I sanded through the paint to expose the primer (can see through the paint, probably about 75% paint, 25% primer) in sections. Have used the trucks for 3 yrs. and I live in Cleveland, Oh. with all the salt and rain no break down omer, no rust. No peeling of the paint where it's thin and the primer is exposed. This stuff really has a good bond and holds up to the weather. Here's a youtube of a test on the bond I'd like to see you do this with por 15. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yA8q4K-_Bo I use Kirker, but I would believe most name brand epoxys are about the same (different manufactures have different set up times etc.) http://www.kirkerautomotive.com/images/PDF/ENDURO.pdf
 
Thank you!! Love this group!! Lots of experience, and great advice from real world situations!!


 
I've also used a coating called Weld Primer. You can spray the primer on the two surfaces and still weld through it. It's better than nothing at all.
 
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The CJ 8 body is now mounted to the JKU frame. Time to weld in the new floor, and then get the drivetrain into her. We're going to build a removable tranny tunnel once it's all in. And my boys are both hounding me to paint it plum crazy purple.


 
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And here's the brand new G2 Core D44 front end, gears and locker done, from 4wp. Free! Thanks to their awesome extreme warranty!!


 
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