- City
- West Bend
- State
- WI
It's basically just a block off plug. It almost looks like another sensor was supposed to go there.
My Blue Jeep
- Thread starter Ron84cj
- Start date
- City
- West Bend
- State
- WI
80W90 gear oil. I have to pick some up tomorrow. There seems to be some debate on how much fluid though. I think in the stock position they take 1.75 quarts. When clocked people say 2 quarts and others say 2.5-3 so the bearings always get oiled. Can anyone that installed a sight tube confirm this?
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- City
- Redmond
- State
- OR
I always had trouble with the rear shim pack not sealing 100% without sealer, so I used the spray copper sealant. It didn’t seem to change the bearing. Adjustment, and no more drip. So if you find an occasional drip you might give that a sho.
- City
- West Bend
- State
- WI
I first tried sealing it with the anaerobic sealer but it threw off the endplay pretty bad. I thought about throwing a bead of sealer around the outside. Thanks for the tip. If this doesn't seal I'll give the copper spray a try.
- City
- West Bend
- State
- WI
I had my 7 year old helping me today getting the T case in.
I put 2 quarts of 80-90 in and went for a drive. T case is nice and quiet and shifts great.
But now I all of a sudden have a new noise intermittently. This one has me stumped. I have to be at a dead stop. Clutch in it's quiet, but when I put it in either 1st, 2nd, 3rd, or 4th (haven't tried 5th and reverse doesn't do it) it makes a noise almost as loud as a bad throw out bearing. But goes away when I either let the clutch off in gear or neutral or if I just simply rev the engine with the clutch in. Doesn't matter if in gear or not. It almost doesn't really sound rotational. Almost more of an intense rattle/vibration but it's hard to tell. It doesn't always do it and it drives great. This is pissing me off. I'm just about ready to push this thing into the pond in my backyard.
Just a thought, according to a bulletin I read Dodge said to start using 10W30 motor oil in the AX15. I used Mobil 1 full synthetic. Could this just be too thin causing funky noises? Would switching to something like Redline MT90 help this?
Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated. My stress level is through the roof.
I put 2 quarts of 80-90 in and went for a drive. T case is nice and quiet and shifts great.
But now I all of a sudden have a new noise intermittently. This one has me stumped. I have to be at a dead stop. Clutch in it's quiet, but when I put it in either 1st, 2nd, 3rd, or 4th (haven't tried 5th and reverse doesn't do it) it makes a noise almost as loud as a bad throw out bearing. But goes away when I either let the clutch off in gear or neutral or if I just simply rev the engine with the clutch in. Doesn't matter if in gear or not. It almost doesn't really sound rotational. Almost more of an intense rattle/vibration but it's hard to tell. It doesn't always do it and it drives great. This is pissing me off. I'm just about ready to push this thing into the pond in my backyard.
Just a thought, according to a bulletin I read Dodge said to start using 10W30 motor oil in the AX15. I used Mobil 1 full synthetic. Could this just be too thin causing funky noises? Would switching to something like Redline MT90 help this?
Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated. My stress level is through the roof.
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Might be the pilot bearing/bushing.
I run Valvoline MTF in my AX15.
On the front output shaft shim stack, I use the brown Aviation Sealant, no leaks.
On my red Scrambler, the intermediate shaft never leaked BEFRORE I clocked the Dana 300. After I clocked the Dana 300, it always has a little seep. I don't have my 300 clocked all the way flat, I stick 2 quarts of 75-90 gear oil in, no problems. With it clocked flatter, the rear output shaft bearing get more oil. This is also why the intermediate shaft seeps - it is now constantly submerged in fluid 100%. Before the clock, it was not 100% submerged.
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
I set up the front output shaft end play tight, then add thin aviation sealant, it will usually be in range. But, 3 out of 4 Dana 300's, I have had to go back and remove a shim or two off the front output shaft after it breaks in. No idea why. At least it is the front which is easy to adjust with the case installed, and not the rear!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
- City
- Marysville
- State
- CA
You chose wisely.
On a drawn cup needle bearing, the side with the part number (which is not always flat) is hardened, and the other side is not. During manufacturing, the non-hardened edge needs to be curled around the retainer/needles after they are inserted in to the cup.
If you press on the non-hardened side, the lip can (and generally will) crush on to the needles, and the bearing won't spin.
More than a few pilot bearings have been ruined this way....
- City
- West Bend
- State
- WI
Crap, I was so focused on the trans I never thought of the pilot bushing. That actually makes sense. Looks like I'm pulling my trans....again.
- City
- West Bend
- State
- WI
That's good news. I generally try to put things back together the same way they came apart to be safe.You chose wisely.
On a drawn cup needle bearing, the side with the part number (which is not always flat) is hardened, and the other side is not. During manufacturing, the non-hardened edge needs to be curled around the retainer/needles after they are inserted in to the cup.
If you press on the non-hardened side, the lip can (and generally will) crush on to the needles, and the bearing won't spin.
More than a few pilot bearings have been ruined this way....
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
I just replaced my 4.0/AX15 pilot bearing (went dry) to a bushing a few weekends ago, sucks
But, now it is nice and quiet
- City
- West Bend
- State
- WI
Good call. Mine is pretty trashed. I really didn't expect it to wear out so fast. Maybe the bad bearing in my trans killed it? Don't know. Oh well, my new bushing will be here either Wednesday or Thursday. Good news my clutch is in great shape. So I guess there is the positive in this situation. I'm feeling pretty confident that this will be the last of my trans/transfer case issues. If not I guess I will just trailer it and hope for the best. After total rebuilds on anything I'm just paranoid. At this point I have finally been through everything on my Jeep. At first I swapped everything in as is (axles, trans, transfer case, etc) and just cleaned up, replaced seals, and new fluids. I've been slowly doing things as I can afford them. The timing here just sucked.I just replaced my 4.0/AX15 pilot bearing (went dry) to a bushing a few weekends ago, sucks
But, now it is nice and quiet
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
I feel your pain.
I just put in a new pilot bushing, clutch, flywheel, and throwout bearing because of pilot bushing noise.
Changed water pump at a NAPA in northern VA on way home from PA.
Changed PS pump due to noise a little bit ago.
Just changed alternator today in my driveway, noisy bearings and erratic voltage regulation. New one works great, but starter just took a dump in my driveway!! Thank God for standard transmissions and hills, pop the clutch!!!
I changed all my belts and hoses late last year, 10 year anniversary I guess?!?!?!?!
- City
- West Bend
- State
- WI
AND FIXED! I feel unbelievably stupid for not even giving the pilot bushing a thought. But that's all it was. No noises, everything is super smooth. Other than the pilot bushing I also changed out the trans fluid. I do this after several miles on any fresh rebuild anyways. I have been reading online and talked to several people that absolutely love Redline MT90. Definitely pricey but considering all the work I did, I'm not going to cheap out on fluids. The AX15 originally called for 75-90 which is what this is. I also like the fact that it is specifically for manual trans and not just something generic.
Either way, it shifts and drives absolutely fantastic! Ok, I'm happy again. I actually feel confident in this thing again.
Either way, it shifts and drives absolutely fantastic! Ok, I'm happy again. I actually feel confident in this thing again.
- City
- West Bend
- State
- WI
So here's an update. Finished out the year and put some miles on. The trans and transfer case is working fantastic. Went up to Drummond Island in October. Other than my youngest being a crabby pants throughout the trip we had a good time. There is a lot of water up there! Even though I trailered my Jeep up there I had to repack my wheel bearings (they were full of water) at the rental house so that a fellow Jeeper could drive mine while I towed his (his timing gear stripped) back to Wisconsin.
In case anyone was wondering...the kids named the skeleton on the front of the jeep Billy. Lol
Onward to my current issue. I had started a couple threads regarding an add a leaf and the factory height. But I figure I'll put everything here. My BDS 2.5" lift sagged BAD in what I consider very short order 15,000 pretty easy miles. I measured my Blue jeep with the lift up against my red Jeep with 30,000 original miles with the original 38 year old springs. It is currently one inch over stock in front and at the sagged down the factory ride height in back. I called BDS and at first they told me it was "normal" and I should just get used to the sag.
Here is thier warranty...
As you can see it clearly says they warranty against sagging. So I called them again and they told me to give them measurements from the center of the hub to the lip of the fender on all 4 corners. For reference my all original red one was about 20" front and 21.5" in the rear. My blue one was 21" front and 21.5" in the rear. They said it was fine and the factory height on a Scrambler is only 17" and that mine is actually closer to a 4" lift. I called BS and took pictures of me actually measuring both jeeps for comparison. Plus I had a pic of the 2 jeeps side by side showing the lift when I first put it on showing that I had the right one. Plus I had measurements from several other peoples stock jeeps supporting my measurements. They eventually gave in but only agreed to warranty the back springs.
There is an add a leaf kit for this through BDS. I asked them if there was one before I even bought these springs to support the extra weight of a Scrambler. Back then they told me it didn't need it. Now they are telling me it should have had one all along. The part number is 114208. It is not listed for a Jeep on their website but they assured me it is correct.
In case anyone was wondering...the kids named the skeleton on the front of the jeep Billy. Lol
Onward to my current issue. I had started a couple threads regarding an add a leaf and the factory height. But I figure I'll put everything here. My BDS 2.5" lift sagged BAD in what I consider very short order 15,000 pretty easy miles. I measured my Blue jeep with the lift up against my red Jeep with 30,000 original miles with the original 38 year old springs. It is currently one inch over stock in front and at the sagged down the factory ride height in back. I called BDS and at first they told me it was "normal" and I should just get used to the sag.
Here is thier warranty...As you can see it clearly says they warranty against sagging. So I called them again and they told me to give them measurements from the center of the hub to the lip of the fender on all 4 corners. For reference my all original red one was about 20" front and 21.5" in the rear. My blue one was 21" front and 21.5" in the rear. They said it was fine and the factory height on a Scrambler is only 17" and that mine is actually closer to a 4" lift. I called BS and took pictures of me actually measuring both jeeps for comparison. Plus I had a pic of the 2 jeeps side by side showing the lift when I first put it on showing that I had the right one. Plus I had measurements from several other peoples stock jeeps supporting my measurements. They eventually gave in but only agreed to warranty the back springs.
There is an add a leaf kit for this through BDS. I asked them if there was one before I even bought these springs to support the extra weight of a Scrambler. Back then they told me it didn't need it. Now they are telling me it should have had one all along. The part number is 114208. It is not listed for a Jeep on their website but they assured me it is correct.
- City
- West Bend
- State
- WI
Before they sent them I asked if they came with the main eye bushings. They said yes... Well, I didn't get them. Also, the add a leaf kit is missing the extended brackets. I am so frickin annoyed right now!
Once I get this all together the back end of my Jeep is probably going to be way higher than the front. I'm thinking on getting a long style add a leaf for the front to bring back some of the lift. The front wasn't totally trash so I think I'll be ok in this particular situation. It's not like they were totally flat or anything. I just want to regain a little bit.
Once I get this all together the back end of my Jeep is probably going to be way higher than the front. I'm thinking on getting a long style add a leaf for the front to bring back some of the lift. The front wasn't totally trash so I think I'll be ok in this particular situation. It's not like they were totally flat or anything. I just want to regain a little bit.
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- City
- Surf City
- State
- NC
Following to see how this turns out. I love the ride of BDS and use their kits on all my CJs. However I have always gone the YJ conversion route with the only exception being the Postal I’m building now.
- City
- West Bend
- State
- WI
So I called BDS and the guy I spoke to said the the kit doesn't come with the clamps and the new springs don't come with new main eye bushings. Part number for those bushings is 074009 if you need them. Last night I didn't get too far, but I started dismantling one spring. For those of you doing this for the first time, unbolt the 2 alignment clamps. Then put a C clamp on near the middle of the spring first. Then loosen the bolt a bit then the c clamp. Don't take the center bolt off right away because the springs are under a good amount of pressure. If your c clamp accidentally slips off at least the bolt would still be there as a safety measure.
I put the pads on the add a leaf and popped off the pads on the leaf with the clamps so I can get to the rivots.
Then you can grind the rivots off.
I put the pads on the add a leaf and popped off the pads on the leaf with the clamps so I can get to the rivots.
Then you can grind the rivots off.