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Needing direction...

That's pretty close: numbers are a bit different. Thanks for the info.

My tag must be missing because I thought it was supposed to be on the firewall and it's definitely not there. It's not a big deal, mainly curious if Chestnut Brown Metallic is in fact my factory color but I'm confident that it is.

I'm planning on sticking with that color and will likely go back with the same decals. I actually prefer the '86 decals mainly for their uniqueness but I'm doubtful if I'll go that route.


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AMC started selling the next model year "legally" October 1. if you were a "preferred" customer you could get the new model September 15. They started stamping 'new" parts on or about July 15 and assembly normally started soon thereafter on new models years. :wave:
 
Good to know, thanks.

I found this online last night and I'm thinking this is what I'd like to do on mine.

2e2b00aab66e20e6b6023e56c1a3cd6c-1.jpg


I know that the general opinion on here is to avoid bed liner. Is this because it's rarely done right or it can't be done right? I have bed liner in my dodge pickup and love it but I don't intend to be driving it thirty years from now like my scrambler.

My bed needs some attention (a couple minor pin holes). Obviously, sandblasting will reveal more but I'm thinking that bedliner done right will be a great solution. If I go with bedliner I'll have it professionally done not a diy kit. Any opinions?


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Ordered all my tub sheet metal parts from classic this afternoon and have spent the last hour searching old forums that describe installation. No luck finding anything. Anyone know of an old thread that would be helpful?


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If the bed liner looses it's bond, it traps water and starts rusting and peeling. It can also discolor. I did mine on top of epoxy so it has a good bond and is it did lose it's bond the epoxy does a good job of protecting the bed from the water.
 
IMO, NO bedliner.

We did a frame off on my dads probably 10 years ago and had the inside professionally bedlinered.
Since then we have replaced the rear 2 ft of the bed center section and it is now rusting out around the outer wheel well lips.

I think the bedliner seals off one side of the seams and allows it not to breathe.

If you paint it all, it will allow you to see any developing issues much sooner than guessing what's going on under that bedliner.
 
IMO, NO bedliner.

We did a frame off on my dads probably 10 years ago and had the inside professionally bedlinered.
Since then we have replaced the rear 2 ft of the bed center section and it is now rusting out around the outer wheel well lips.

I think the bedliner seals off one side of the seams and allows it not to breathe.

If you paint it all, it will allow you to see any developing issues much sooner than guessing what's going on under that bedliner.

I bought over 60 jeeps in the last 10 years
The more undercoating or bedliner ,the more rot !
I was even able to remove Line-ex from the rear of my black scrambler and found flash rust


 
Point taken! That being the case I do have a few pin holes in my bed but they're all in one small area... Can probably get them with one patch.
 
Got around to installing new rear crossmember from CHIEFWAHO this afternoon. This thing is very stout and precisely made.

Pic of OEM vs. CHIEFWAHO crossmember:
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Mounted up and measured:
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And welded up:
059be7468302bffa2da33e896c1e220e-1.jpg


I welded every single seam as I don't want moisture to be able to get in anywhere. The frame will completely rot before this crossmember does.


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I also welded up all the extra holes in my rollbar. I left seatbelt, spare tire, and sideboard holes. I may have welded closed some factory holes but couldn't envision a use for them so they're gone.

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I have a little straightening to do on the front crossmember, need to remove axles and springs and my frame will be ready for paint. I think I'm going to order four cans of Eastwoods internal frame paint and take care of that before I blast and paint frame exterior. Based off of what I've read on here POR15 and Eastwoods seem to be the way to go but Eastwoods looks pretty simple to use.

I'm also getting a quote on a rebuild of my T176 and DANA300 at certified transmission in Topeka, KS. I'm already spending more time on this project than I can really justify.


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I have mine sprayed with Vortec lining with UV sun blocker. Been on for over 5 years and still looks like the day it was installed. :wave:
 
I guess the goals I originally set to complete this rebuild were totally unrealistic... But many of you probably knew that. I've been so busy I haven't even had time to keep up with reading posts on here let alone work on the scrambler. I haven't touched it in a month and likely won't get much time to for another month. I'd love to be able to use it this fall for hunting season but spring is probably more likely.

The next month will be busy with high-moisture corn harvest. Most people aren't familiar with that so here is a video if anyone is interested.

https://vimeo.com/137316042

With these grinders we process 3 ton/minute. This pit will be full of about 1/2 million bushels of corn in a couple weeks. (Roughly 600 semi loads) The Detroit running in the video is so damned loud I hear it in my sleep.

More importantly, baby #5 should be born any day! So definitely not much shop time in the near future!
 
I guess the goals I originally set to complete this rebuild were totally unrealistic... But many of you probably knew that. I've been so busy I haven't even had time to keep up with reading posts on here let alone work on the scrambler. I haven't touched it in a month and likely won't get much time to for another month. I'd love to be able to use it this fall for hunting season but spring is probably more likely.

The next month will be busy with high-moisture corn harvest. Most people aren't familiar with that so here is a video if anyone is interested.

https://vimeo.com/137316042

With these grinders we process 3 ton/minute. This pit will be full of about 1/2 million bushels of corn in a couple weeks. (Roughly 600 semi loads) The Detroit running in the video is so damned loud I hear it in my sleep.

More importantly, baby #5 should be born any day! So definitely not much shop time in the near future!

Congrats on the baby. Jeep ownership with a family is definitely an on again, off again task.

So ya'll just dump in a pit and cover it? Interesting. Around here we use bins. I worked a the family granary for a few years back in the late 90's before I decided school wasn't so bad afterall. Dumped flatbeds. Job was so dusty that at the end of the day me and the black guys I worked with all looked the same; 3 inch coating of dust.

Really hated Milo. That stuff made me itch worse than wallowing in fiberglass insulation. Don't miss driving the bobcat cleaning out the big tanks at the end of wheat season either. The inside of those tanks is hot in July and August, especially sitting on a diesel engine.

We quit taking corn after a big aflatoxin scare, but apparently everyone's now decided it isn't that big of a deal. We had farmers literally dumping it on the ground because no granary would take it back in 98-99

Now that I have an office job I miss working there. It was dirty with either really long hours or really short hours (and a really small paycheck) but it beat being shackeled to a desk.....
 
We put it in a pit but we grind it first and then pack it with tractors just like you would silage to get the air out so it will go through anaerobic fermentation. Makes for a lot of work this time of year but alleviates work the rest of the year. Plus if we have a blizzard we'll have feed on hand.
 
What should it cost to blast/paint my scrambler? I've talked to several people and I'm surprised by the number I'm getting back. One guy who has done several scramblers before has told me $6000 plus. Another collision/body man to me $4000-$12000, depending on what I wanted. That just seems excessive to me. I'm not looking for a show jeep just a paint job that will look good and last and that I won't be scared to take out of the garage.

Due to a rain last night I may get the chance to pull the axels and springs off today and the frame will be ready to go to town. I've found a different body shop from the ones listed above who said roughly $600 to do the frame. That sounds a bit more reasonable and probably the route I'm going to take, but I thought some of you could give me an idea of what to expect.

No baby yet either...:confused::fingerscrossed:
 
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