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Never Ending Scrambler Build

Painted the parts. Installed the headlight assemblies and parking lights. When I went to install the headlight bezels I found the drivers headlight assembly had a temp repair which doesn't let the bezel fit (clip sits inside the grill instead of outside). Put a order in for two new assemblies. Looking at the pass side the bezel makes the jeep look like it has a black eye. The parking light doesn't have a chrome ring that I can remove (I might have painted a old one like the bezel to see what it looks like) so I'll probably install the stainless steel ones I have.IMAG0788.jpgIMAG0787.jpgIMAG0786.jpg
 
The headlight assemblies came in. Installation went smooth till I lost the last screw. Fell off as I was screwing in. Took 45 min. to find where it ended up on the floor. Looks much better the the black bezel even without matching the rest of the hardware.IMAG0797.jpgIMAG0796.jpgIMAG0798.jpgIMAG0801.jpg
 
yea, I know:rolleyes:. It probably will take two years to work up the money. I'll also have to decide on which engine. I have a 401 that should be rebuilt or go the 350. Once that's decided I can work on the trans and transfer case.
 
I'm working on the wiring in the engine compartment. I've installed a junction block with a relay off the key for accessories and two ground junction boxes (one on each fenders) that are tied together with 10 gauge wire into a bolt I installed on the fire wall. This will be connected to the battery with a 4 gauge battery cable. That should cover the grounds in the engine compartment (the engine will have it's own cable). Also have ordered two smaller ground blocks for inside the cab (one on each side). I'll run the 10 gauge wires to these blocks. Also installed a headlight relay so the headlights will run off full battery power.P1090402.jpgP1090403.jpgP1090404.jpgP1090405.jpgIMAG0800.jpgIMAG0803.jpgP1090406.jpg
 
The 3 pictures of the inside of the tub is pictures of a crack in the paint on the outside of this support that I'm getting opinions on from a autobody forum I follow and got accidentally listed with the pics on the wiring. May as well show the other side where the crack is.P1000878_edited-1.jpgP1000491.jpg. Only spot on the jeep and it appeared over a year after painting.
 
I'm caught up with where I am now (most of these pics were from the project over the last 3 to 4 years). My goal is to be able to finish the wiring (minus the engine and trans wiring). Would like to get the roll bar painted and mounted before spring also.
 
Got a hour in today. Was able to pull part of the harness apart and get the wires run and spliced into the harness for the starter solenoid and run to the skid plate (for a neutral switch for a auto trans). Probably going to go with a auto trans (wife refuses to learn manual). Next I start on wiring the dash and the speed hut gauges I mounted in the dash.
 
Got a Rymo RhinoPro Label maker to label the wires. It will be nice (for if I ever have to remove or replace a gauge) and should make it easier to remember the wires. Got about a quarter of them labeled. One good day and I should have most of the wiring done for the dash.IMAG0807.jpgIMAG0808.jpgIMAG0809.jpg
 
Almost got the dash done. I'm using a under dash mount ignition switch so I need to cut and extend the wires for the switch. I used a painless wiring harness (same one I used on the cj about 9 yrs ago) and am not the happiest with what they did with this harness. On the cj7 (same harness) they labeled all the wires (even the ones that plug into the ignition switch in the column). On this harness they just have a label on each plug with the word ignition. And the wires go to different ports on the plug. I know the harness is universal for many yrs. of cj's, but with out labeling each wire (including the extra wire that the stock harness doesn't have) it's a hit or miss on if its batt, ign, acc or start. I did the same on the cj7 so I was able to see where I matched the wires up to but I still want to call them to make sure I don't cross the wires.P1090417.jpg
 
On the cj7 I put the ignition switch in the dash (wish I could do this with the cj8 but this dash has a clock so no room). This switch I'll have to mount under the dash. The flaming river mount may almost be more of a pain than it's worth. The nut that screws on on the outside barely fits in the hole of the mount. Their is no way to tighten the nut (enough room to wedge a screwdriver between the nut and mount) with a socket or wrench. It also has a hex allen screw that goes down through the top but is not threaded completely through (so that it would make contact with the nut). On their web site they don't even have the screw in their picture. I may just tap the hole completely through (hole was drilled through just not tapped through). What I'll have to do is put the nut in and turn the switch to tighten. I'll have to play with it to hopefully find the starting point so when tightened the slot will be in the correct position. P1090426.jpgP1090428.jpgP1090429.jpg
 
Got the GPS antenna drilled and placed under the vent cover. I'll JB weld it after I decide where to place for best reception. I also mounted the nozzle for the windshield washer. I would hate to have to mount it with the dash mounted (I don't know how someone could get the wrench up there, probably have to make a shorty wrench).P1090423.jpgP1090424.jpgP1090425.jpg
 
Runs over the steering column mount to the firewall on between the fuse box and the curve of the cowl (comes out under the grill support rod) then runs down to the washer pump. The nozzle itself goes through the cowl to the left of the defroster duct. The hose connects to it there and goes the route listed above. I really glad I put it in before the dash.
 
Got a hold of flaming river on their ignition switch bracket and the guy didn't know why their is a threaded hole. He was nice enough to go to the engineer and the guy who machines the parts. I was correct, it was for some installations where the nut can't be used (to tighten and hold the switch). He did not know why it wasn't tapped through. I tapped it through and got the nut tightened with the slot lined up correctly. Finished extending the wires that are going to the ignition switch and connected to the switch. I mounted the dash (took two tries, since a clamp I installed to hold the wiring harness was in the way of the heater switch). Also went to install the new heater cables (piece of ****** crown automotive parts) which would pull back out of the dash. Took a screw driver to try to bend the plastic tabs out and broke a tab on each cable (tabs are hard plastic and wouldn't spread out enough to lock in). I ended up using jb weld on the back side. Hopefully this will hold (If I have to take them out I'm going to have a he** of a time). After they were installed the plastic housing (cables) when bent to the position they need to be in make the metal cable very stiff to pull. When the cables are straight they work great. Does anyone know of cables that operate good when they are in the installed position.IMAG0817.jpgIMAG0818.jpgIMAG0821.jpgIMAG0822.jpgIMAG0823.jpgIMAG0825.jpgIMAG0828.jpg
 
As you can see I installed the aluminum mount for the column and a new gasket and bracket on the firewall for the column. In the process of unpacking the column I found a had scratches on the tilt portion. When I painted it it came out perfect. While drying I must have bumped it (had under the tub on blocks to dry) and when I found out had to sand and repaint. The next day I put it in the box it came in and shelved it. I guess I must have scratched it again. I'll just tape off the column (minus the tilt portion that's scratched) and repaint it before I install the steering wheel. Installed the collar for now but I'll have to come up with something to match the size of the new column. The wiring harness for the turn signals do match up just looks a little odd with the different size connectors. Looks like it's starting to come together.
 
While I had to mix the paint I decided to unpack the M.O.R.E Bombproof motor mounts. I cleaned the mounts and epoxy primed the mounts. Then I used the paint to paint the column and the mounts. Hopefully I won't scratch the column when I install it.:rolleyes:P1090432.jpgP1090433.jpgP1090435.jpgP1090437.jpgP1090439.jpg
 

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