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Prodject ZeroToWow

And here is how they came out
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And now the motor is sitting in the rig..
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That looks good! I really look forwards to seeing posts from you, as I enjoy checking out good fabrication. Keep the pics coming!
 
No way, them are "booger" welds :D
Ya, I am a bit of a perfectionist, thanks for the good input so far..
 
THANKS CRASH

This will be a great thread to archive for those that want to see how to do it right,thanks for taking the time to post everything and the pics,what are you using to make your cuts on the brackets that your building?I'm guessing your bandsaw and a plasma cutter? Thanks again for the info-JC:D
 
awesome stuff

Wow, you really are making quick work of this (seems to take me forever to get anything done).

I like all the pics, thx for sharing and keep em coming.
 
I actually haven't gotten around to investing in a plasma, still using old school torch, but i cut my metal with a horizontal band saw.. And what I do is when I cut any angle in any metal, save the cutting and use it for a gusset, got a bucket to pick from now..
Its coming along, will be slow going for the next week as I figure out a couple more items, then I can finish turning the knuckles to get the caster I want and then give it steering...
But since this will be a trail only rig, i am trying to convince the owner to just let me give it full hydro steering.
 
Well, finally got the model20 ripped out of the rear, and damn, I ran outa oxy on my torch, so had to use the backup sawzall/grinder.. How ya like them bootie fab jack stands :D
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Got the tbi for the projection cleaned up and put onto the intake.
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I got the corp under the rear, with the springs setup so I could get the rig level, figure out how much fenderwell clearance and figure out my shackle lengths..
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Whatcha think, a lil sawzall lovin needed here :D
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So, once I figured out what My shackle angle was going to be, I popped the holes thru the frame, and would have had the inserts for the bushings in if I didn't loose the blade on the band saw(can you say "spares" ya dummy :mad: )
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Project ZerotoWow

I don't know if you actually started with a "zero," but you are definitely ending up with a WOW. Hat's off to you, Crash. Thanks for the pics and descriptions and good luck (or not, as they say, "you don't need luck, you have skill!":D ) all through way through to completion.
-Mike
 
Thanks man, I apreciate it......
This is my first major jeep build up, done alot of suspension stuff with them, so I am learning alot as I go, I always do. If anything, I am just able to perfect how I do them..


Well, I almost got the front shackles done, but the kids needed dad to help with homework, so hopefully tommorow....
 
BOOTY STANDS

Crash here is one for some thought and much more stable than those crumble blocks,I went to the local lumber yard and asked the guy for some cull 6x6 pressure treated post,He said well i just sold all of them but lets see what we can find,he went out and found 4 6x6x16' that was a little wraped and cracked,i gave him 40 bucks for them hauled them home and cut them into 16" chunks,they work great,just stack them 3 wide and alternat the direction they are running and you can build them 5' high if need ed and they seem to be really steady-The project is coming right along and looking really good-JC:D
 
Those cinder blocks scare me, too. Working for a railroad, I can get 4x12x30" blocks of wood for free. I figure that if the carmen use them to support 140 ton railcars, they might be able to hold my Jeep up. :D
 
Pure redneck fasion huh :D :D

I am actually going to make some stands that are a set heigth..
 
BOOTY STANDS

Redneckin? Nah it needs weeds growing up throgh the floor boards and the cab filled up with beer bottles and cans and the motor sitting in the bed-LOL-Crash i use the 6x6 blocks and a set of heavy duty extra tall jack stands,you can set the jack stands up on the 6x6 blocks for a steady platform and a lot of adjustibility-JC:D
 
Ok, I retired the "blocks", put them back uned the corner of the house so I could get my jck back(hahahaha, I'm kiddin, really)

Well, go the shackle mounts done in the frame

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Got the shackle's built, was pretty happy with how they turned out, was pretty tricky to get a x-support between the shackles and not cause any interference problems

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So, now that the weight of the rig was sitting on the axle with no hinderence, It was time to build spring plates

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Durring so, I conteplated and faught the pinion angle.. The only way to truely have it point to the t-case, would require moving the pinion inboard and removing the cast in perch. That was one thing I really didn't want to do, was trying my best to figure out a happy medium. My final conclusion, was rotate the housing 4 degrees with shims, which gave the pinion about 6 degrees up.

So now that I have the housing set, I can remove it tommorow and cut the passenger knuckle off and rotate it and have the caster set..

I also got the headers today, talk about pretty and should give me the clearance I need (still may have to work some magic on the steering shaft)..

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When I got done with the passenger spring plate, I got the ubolt snugged down, and went to tighten the 2 5/8 bolts on the diff and pop, tossed al the threads on one hole. So, I grabbed the drill(I was a big pissed,lol), drilled both holes out and tapped them to 3/4, now, that should hold.
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And here is how the spring plated turned out.

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So, knocked the passenger side knuckle off, and got the housing set just where I wanted it..

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Got the knucles pounded back on, caster set to 7 on both sides and then drug the housing out and buzzed it up...

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Question?

Crash,
How deep are the tapped holes in the boss on the housing that you redrilled? I've not ever seen one done like that,I'm guessing you've run them that way before,but was wondering how well it would hold up with 40" plus tires and gearing in the 120 plus range with the horsepower and torque you would be applying in a climbing situtaion.What would you have to do if you did pull the threads out of it? It dosen't look like there would be any way to capture it with a U bolt to fix it, if that did happen?-I'm not questioning your work,but wondering if you've run this set up before and how well it holds up?-JC;)
 
The holes are aprox 1.5" deep. Look at it this way, how many mud rigs, runing big motors and stock suspension setups do ya see blowing housings off the springs? I never have, and another thing, doing it this way, you have no torgue stretching of a U-bolt.
Like I mentioned earlier, the true/only reason for running the stock pad is clearance with the TH400 oil pan...

I don't think it will fail, if it ever does, wel crap,lol.....

It should be fine....
 
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