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SJScrambler - Getting Started

certifiablejeep

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All opinions are welcome and I was looking at the other J10 rollbars that do have the horizontal and although not my favorite look, I want the down-bars on the same angle as the Scrambler and I want the bed to be functional so I don't want the bars in the way in the bed.

So I am kind of stuck... certain criteria needs to be there and others can be adjusted accordingly.

The trucks you showed are shortbeds and step sides... this truck is more truck bed style, so the longer J10/J20 is probably more the style I would have to go after... plus combine it with Scrambler DNA... and some CJ7... yeah!

cb

 

FLCJ8

Legacy Registered User
Just an idea, and may not be what you want, but can you move the legs inboard like they do with these J10's. Would eliminate the angle and making extensions part of it. Personally, I don't think a horizontal extension at the top would look that great., but then again you never really asked for my opinion either.

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Interesting, because the earlier reference I made was for the "fleetside"(?) Jeep Honcho roll bar that looks like this:
honcho.jpg
 

don87401

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I was thinking leave the top straight, put curve down over the fender well. You ca bracket it near fender top and the original mounting location if wanted extra strenght.
 

certifiablejeep

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I was thinking leave the top straight, put curve down over the fender well. You ca bracket it near fender top and the original mounting location if wanted extra strenght.
Just like flipping the bars around in the front, you have flipped my thinking on this... having the bend at the bottom would hide everything from the side profile and get me back to what I wanted to do originally... very cool... I will try to mock something up tonight.

cb
 

FLCJ8

Legacy Registered User
Interesting idea... didn't think about the top tube... I might have a section kicking around in the boneyard out back.
As for 3" OD 1/8" ID tubing... not many places have it in stock... also, very few places will bend 3"... most go up to 2"

So, I continue on looking.

cb
The tubing may be available from here:
http://www.sterling-equipment.com/index.php/our-products/roll-bars
They make custom roll bars, (single, double, triple hoop etc.)
They use 3" tube 13 gauge (~3/32") w/6" centerline bends.
Maybe they would make just the kickers to your specs?

They have much better photos on FB.

(I'm thinking of checking with them on replicating the OEM roll bar when I get back home.
That is why I asked about the wall thickness)
 

FLCJ8

Legacy Registered User
Just like flipping the bars around in the front, you have flipped my thinking on this... having the bend at the bottom would hide everything from the side profile and get me back to what I wanted to do originally... very cool... I will try to mock something up tonight.

cb
Yeah, I was going to suggest that as well, but since mine is ~3k miles away I can't visualize the space for the bend.
(I'm kinda useless, except for the keyboard).
If you have spare bends lying around, you should be able to try that to see if you have enough height from the wheel well to the top of the bed to hide the bend.
 

don87401

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Just another thought, Looking at this picture. What if you make a concave panel to go in the fender allowing the "bar" to pass straight through the fender. how deep would that be and would it inter fear with tire clearance.

You could probably figure that out with a couple of strings, one across the hoop where the bottom of the straight bars will attach and the second string tied to that one just inside the fender well running down to an equivalent point off set for the fender of the lower mount. It would show you how deep into the fender the concave would have to be.

This place has 3"X.188 wall tubing. https://www.metalsdepot.com/


 
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certifiablejeep

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Just another thought, Looking at this picture. What if you make a concave panel to go in the fender allowing the "bar" to pass straight through the fender. how deep would that be and would it inter fear with tire clearance.

You could probably figure that out with a couple of strings, one across the hoop where the bottom of the straight bars will attach and the second string tied to that one just inside the fender well running down to an equivalent point off set for the fender of the lower mount. It would show you how deep into the fender the concave would have to be.

This place has 3"X.188 wall tubing. https://www.metalsdepot.com/


Also a possibility, I was kicking it around last night, but then all my measurements were off... I will update shortly.

cb
 

certifiablejeep

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Last night was interesting... I found out that when I was trying to draw strings down to measure, etc. I found a couple things out.

First, the mounting area on the floor is larger than a normal "foot" for the rear bar.
When I replaced the spreader under the tub and drilled for new holes and put the nuts in, that panel from Classic was not bent "exactly" to the stock one. My stock one was cut and mangled, so I would never have noticed, but it isn't that big of a deal, I will just get some 1/4" plate and make some new feet pads...

I then moved onto using string and couldn't figure out why I was almost an inch off... doing some measuring and tearing it all apart, I found a lot of junk on the feet pads. Also, the rollbar itself just isn't square, especially since I cut off the legs. One more interesting part is that it was kicked to one side more than the other.

So, a lot of cleaning and wallowing out the holes a bit to clear them of junk, I put it back in... "straight-edge" and now it is pretty close, but still not perfect. I gave up and called it a day... 2 steps backward, 1 forward. I will try tonight again.

cb

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This last picture shows that when you are square to the body, the roll bar is kicked back about 1/4-1/2" from where I want it to be... the driver side is flush, but the passenger side is not... when you then add another bar in front of that and then the close in panels, I was off about an inch... each 1/8 and 1/16" really adds up.

I also found out the side panel I added on the passenger side is probably 3/16" too long... so will have to address that after I do the rollbar. I am doing everything from the back forward now with the measurements. I lost track of keeping that one focal reference point. But, it is metal, and it can all be manipulated to do what we want.

cb
 

certifiablejeep

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Not too much progress, but was able to get some new feet made in the back and tried to fit the bar a bit more in the rear/front... it was frustrating, so I moved onto making a couple spreaders as I needed more of them... I threw in the towel and enjoyed a couple IPAs... and now I am printing out some new coping cuts to see if I can make the top fit up better.

cb

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If anyone needs some rear feet, I am going to end up with at least one set of them...

cb
 

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certifiablejeep

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Not much to report... this month is going to get worse with the time aspect of things... but I did do some more trimming and fitting... I know it looks the same, but we are zeroing in on it now. The angle of the bar stock is about 37-38 degrees... I can get it to about 34 possibly 35 when I am done so it will have the appearance of stock (even though it is longer and the front bars are turned 180 degrees).

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FLCJ8

Legacy Registered User
I think you're on the right track. :twocents:
Even if the support bar ends up slightly higher or the angle slightly different, the fact the style and location looks original will visually tie it all together.
 

certifiablejeep

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Skipped the rollbar tonight and got in a new piece for the front, so it inspired me to start cutting and fitting the new front corner pieces.

cb

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I hope tonight after doing some Christmas present license plates work I can get back to mocking up the side and seeing where the new mounts will sit, etc.
 

certifiablejeep

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The plan as of now is to extend the length of the rollbar as don87401 says and see where it hits on the pad I made... if it doesn't like up where I want it to, build a spacer to make it higher.

I want the angled look at the top like stock, I don't want to have an extension like the J trucks and then come down... also, finding someone to mandrel bend 3" pipe is somewhat of a challenge up here... most only go to 2".

cb
 

certifiablejeep

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Got the front panels made and was test fitting a few things to see what might work... will need another set of mounts on the frame, or move the existing ones, not sure yet what will be best... I have to get it mocked into place first and see.

The panels need to be extended in the front as it is longer by a few inches than the back area where it kicks up... since I am using back panels for the front, it needs to be modified to make it longer.

Also, these panels will require finishing on the inside as well as the outside as it will be seen inside the bed. Need to make them smooth and nice. Not hard, just a lot of tedious work.

cb

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