- City
- Farmington
- State
- NM
This one is for bolting to a TJ/LJ frame. I do not now if it also fits a CJ frame. Would have to research if the holes are the same. But yes it came predrilled and slotted for both side welding of D rings
Someone called it a TJ 6
- Thread starter don87401
- Start date
- City
- Farmington
- State
- NM
https://atozfabrication.com/front-bumper-mounting-kit-for-jeep-wrangler-yj-tj.html?category_id=19
Here is the link to it, says YJ/TJ
They may work with you to get one for a CJ.
Here is the link to it, says YJ/TJ
They may work with you to get one for a CJ.
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- City
- Farmington
- State
- NM
Finished putting it the corner sections except for the very front 2 at the windshield. have to set the top to fit them.
Set the top on for the first time sense being painted.
Set a seat in.
View from the back with both seats in.
Set the top on for the first time sense being painted.
Set a seat in.
View from the back with both seats in.
- City
- Farmington
- State
- NM
Tried the fender flares and rocker guards. Found that the right front fender was bent bad enough that the flare would not fit, left about a 3/4 in. gap between the fender and the flare. I guess that was one thing I did bolt up and check before painting.
So I ordered an after market replacement and checked it right out of the box. On the bench before cutting the inter fender to fit the TJ frame.
Cut the fender out and put it on the Jeep (kinda liked the blue and the black contrast) but no it is going to paint.
Drop the hood on being it had not be on yet, to make sure it would fit
Wired up the rear Lite Dot tail lights that some one sold me cheap after wining them at drawing. (he had a set)
So I ordered an after market replacement and checked it right out of the box. On the bench before cutting the inter fender to fit the TJ frame.
Cut the fender out and put it on the Jeep (kinda liked the blue and the black contrast) but no it is going to paint.
Drop the hood on being it had not be on yet, to make sure it would fit
Wired up the rear Lite Dot tail lights that some one sold me cheap after wining them at drawing. (he had a set)
Belizeit
CJ-8 Member
- City
- River Ridge
- State
- La
X2. That front is tops !
- City
- Farmington
- State
- NM
Set up a small paint both and got busy coating the parts that had not been done. Rear bumper from Hard rock (modified a bit)
Rocker guards coated, modified GenRight LJ stretched. Coating is Raptor Tint-able tinted with the color of the shiny paint.
I waited on coating the rocker guard until I could check and see if the Wife could get in the Jeep without having to change the step, she was able with a 3" taller step stool.
Tire carrier primed waiting go to the paint both. This is the 3rd one of these I have built (this one welded up by the local high school welding class) and details are in the Fab section.
Coated and installed.
And no the Jeep isn't diesel, just used the cans to fit the mounts for the RotoPax cans.
Tire is 35x12.50-15 The Jeep will get new shoes once get it on the road. Same size.
And got the after market fender back from paint and put it on.
Rocker guards coated, modified GenRight LJ stretched. Coating is Raptor Tint-able tinted with the color of the shiny paint.
I waited on coating the rocker guard until I could check and see if the Wife could get in the Jeep without having to change the step, she was able with a 3" taller step stool.
Tire carrier primed waiting go to the paint both. This is the 3rd one of these I have built (this one welded up by the local high school welding class) and details are in the Fab section.
Coated and installed.
And no the Jeep isn't diesel, just used the cans to fit the mounts for the RotoPax cans.
Tire is 35x12.50-15 The Jeep will get new shoes once get it on the road. Same size.
And got the after market fender back from paint and put it on.
- City
- Farmington
- State
- NM
Put on some more of the coated parts
After looking at it for a while I decided to put welting between the panels. Ordered color samples from Bob Drake and went through them I had been thinking of using black but after looking at the black I didn't like the look. (neither did the wife) but there was a blue in the bunch so it tried that is just a little darker than the paint and coating looked better (wife liked it) so that is what I went with.
After looking at it for a while I decided to put welting between the panels. Ordered color samples from Bob Drake and went through them I had been thinking of using black but after looking at the black I didn't like the look. (neither did the wife) but there was a blue in the bunch so it tried that is just a little darker than the paint and coating looked better (wife liked it) so that is what I went with.
- City
- Farmington
- State
- NM
Went to the DMV and got the registration for the plate updated, figured I would start that process because I didn't know what they would want me to do to make it happen. Figured if I was going to have to jump through hoops I might as well know what they are. Showed up with my picture book, plate and insurance card and low and behold they took care of it in one trip good for 2 years. Mounted the plate and lights, good to go.
Installed the gas filler in the body, had to grind the opening a bit and scratched the coating, oh well I plan to drive it so it will probably get worse.
Start on some of the other list of things to finish. Put in both batteries. Mounted the ARB lockers compressor, ran the hoses to the ones on the frame. Other parts laying there are the dual battery control system from Painless, just looking for place to mount things.
Ordered an Air Raid air cleaner for a Chevy v8, didn't list a v6, found the plenum box and the filter fit just fine. If you are doing a V8 swap and need an extension tube and coupling let me know.
Installed the gas filler in the body, had to grind the opening a bit and scratched the coating, oh well I plan to drive it so it will probably get worse.
Start on some of the other list of things to finish. Put in both batteries. Mounted the ARB lockers compressor, ran the hoses to the ones on the frame. Other parts laying there are the dual battery control system from Painless, just looking for place to mount things.
Ordered an Air Raid air cleaner for a Chevy v8, didn't list a v6, found the plenum box and the filter fit just fine. If you are doing a V8 swap and need an extension tube and coupling let me know.
- City
- Farmington
- State
- NM
The battery tray is from M.O.R.E. It is actually for a JK. It comes with different brackets for the JK. I just used the tray itself and and the hold down plate,
made my own supporting brackets.
There was a hole for the bolt (front right in the picture. But I didn't want the bolt head against the battery so I welded in a stud to tie the bracket in.
https://mountainoffroad.com/collections/wrangler-jk/products/dual-battery-tray-07-11-jk
made my own supporting brackets.
There was a hole for the bolt (front right in the picture. But I didn't want the bolt head against the battery so I welded in a stud to tie the bracket in.
https://mountainoffroad.com/collections/wrangler-jk/products/dual-battery-tray-07-11-jk
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- City
- Farmington
- State
- NM
A word of caution if you plan to use dash stanchions for part of your roll bar.
Also run all your wiring and test before you get to a point that you can not remove things to find problems. I should have at least done all the chassis wiring before I put it all together. I was working on things as they were more convient with time allowed and got way ahead of myself.
Some thing I didn't think of when I built this was having an electrical issue behind the dash. When I choose to use the dash stanchions for the roll bar I did not build in a way to take them out should I need to remove the dash for what ever reason. Well it looks like I have to remove the dash I have a short or back feed from some thing that drains the battery really quickly to dead! I know it is in the harness not and accessory that I have added. When I remove the 12 volt feed to the wiring harness it goes away. So there probably won't be new picture for a while as I take this thing all apart again to pull the dash out.
As you can see in this picture the front down tube on the sides are welded directly to the stanchion so the whole bar has to be removed to access to remove the dash. My plan is to get the top of and the windshield laid down and cut the the two front bars with a pipe cutter just above the cross bar and put in the couplings like I have in the all the cross tubes. This will allow me to remove the lower front cross bar and unbolt the stanchions to access removal of the dash with out taking out the whole roll cage.
Also run all your wiring and test before you get to a point that you can not remove things to find problems. I should have at least done all the chassis wiring before I put it all together. I was working on things as they were more convient with time allowed and got way ahead of myself.
Some thing I didn't think of when I built this was having an electrical issue behind the dash. When I choose to use the dash stanchions for the roll bar I did not build in a way to take them out should I need to remove the dash for what ever reason. Well it looks like I have to remove the dash I have a short or back feed from some thing that drains the battery really quickly to dead! I know it is in the harness not and accessory that I have added. When I remove the 12 volt feed to the wiring harness it goes away. So there probably won't be new picture for a while as I take this thing all apart again to pull the dash out.
As you can see in this picture the front down tube on the sides are welded directly to the stanchion so the whole bar has to be removed to access to remove the dash. My plan is to get the top of and the windshield laid down and cut the the two front bars with a pipe cutter just above the cross bar and put in the couplings like I have in the all the cross tubes. This will allow me to remove the lower front cross bar and unbolt the stanchions to access removal of the dash with out taking out the whole roll cage.
- City
- Farmington
- State
- NM
No new pictures still looks like above, but have made progress on the wiring issues. Found my drain to the battery. I had wired the TCC relay to always on circuit so it pulled power constantly, got it moved to a key on circuit and the drain went away. Also found that the battery ground cables were not ground well. I had put them on a bolt in the manifold and that was not working well. So they are getting moved back to the block. A little harder to hook up but should work better. Battery has not gone down now for a week of sitting hooked up. Dash light issue was a bad lighting inverter/harness from Speedhut. Gave them a call, they sent me a new one no charge even though it has been a few years sense I bought all that stuff. I received and broke the wiring tab to the dimmer control trying to get the knob off to mount it. Called purchased another one, have to be more careful getting the knob off this time. Actually had to use a screw drive to pry the knob off the one I broke. So now I will start with that and be more careful how I hold it.
sdsupilot
CJ-8 Member
- City
- OKC
- State
- OK
How is your TCC controlled? I have mine powered by the cigarette lighter through a monte carlo brake light switch. This only allows power to the TCC when the brake pedal is not pressed. The stock GM TBI computer then grounds the TCC when the right conditions are met. All that said, I wouldn't think the TCC should drain your battery with an constant power circuit unless either the computer or something else grounds the solenoid.
Also, If you use the 82ish monte carlo brake light switch.... cut a leaf spring U bolt nut in half to secure the brake light switch on the brake pedal assembly. This switch is more sensitive than the factory switch to get TCC and brake light to function correctly.
Also, If you use the 82ish monte carlo brake light switch.... cut a leaf spring U bolt nut in half to secure the brake light switch on the brake pedal assembly. This switch is more sensitive than the factory switch to get TCC and brake light to function correctly.
- City
- Farmington
- State
- NM
I used a normally closed relay powered from a key on circuit. This gives the TCC power, I use power from the jeep brake light when you step on the brake to open the relay and break the power the TCC. When you release the brake the relay closes again and supplies power back to the TCC.
I don't know the why. But when I had it wired to to the fulltime on circuit l could not keep the battery up had a constant 9v drain. When I moved the wire to the keyed circuit it went away and hasn't killed the battery in a week. I might add its a GM 4.3/700r4 Howell harness
I don't know the why. But when I had it wired to to the fulltime on circuit l could not keep the battery up had a constant 9v drain. When I moved the wire to the keyed circuit it went away and hasn't killed the battery in a week. I might add its a GM 4.3/700r4 Howell harness
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