- City
- Baton Rouge
- State
- La
Spanky hard at work!
Spankrjs 1985 Spring Special CJ-7
- Thread starter spankrjs
- Start date
- City
- Baton Rouge
- State
- La
I’m going to try out a new washless paste wax on the SS
- City
- Fort Walton Beach
- State
- FL
Not a real fun project, but you sure can feel better now that the hoses and tank are all cleaned up!
- City
- Baton Rouge
- State
- La
Thanks for helping Spanks! You’re always down to party! That Warn was priceless!!I helped Tommy move Jeeps around a few weekends back. The old Spring Special fired up and drove fine. Drove it about 15 miles. Really miss this one, need to get it back home
View attachment 118573
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Back home after 6 years 
Needs a wash, an oil change, burn out what's left of the old fuel, and I'm sure a leak or two fixed. Glad to have it back.
Thanks for watching it @JeepAddict
Needs a wash, an oil change, burn out what's left of the old fuel, and I'm sure a leak or two fixed. Glad to have it back.
Thanks for watching it @JeepAddict
- City
- Allen Park
- State
- MI
She's a beauty! 
- City
- Cobourg, Ontario, Cana
- State
- da
Back home after 6 years
Needs a wash, an oil change, burn out what's left of the old fuel, and I'm sure a leak or two fixed. Glad to have it back.
Thanks for watching it @JeepAddict
Yes and we need a BURN OUT video!!!!!
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Jeeps been sitting in the garage since Sunday, so far only one small puddle:
Looks like the oil pan drain plug. Oil pan gasket/rear main seal areas seem dry.
Drove it around the neighborhood to get it warmed up, then maintenance time. Figured after 6 years, time to change the engine oil and filter.
The Jeep had minor puddles under it through the years it was stored in Baton Rouge. I checked both axles, transmission, transfer case, radiator, PS fluid levels while I was draining the engine oil. All fluid levels were fine, nothing low.
Went ahead and greased the steering/suspension/clutch linkage/drive shafts with the grease gun while I was at it.
Quick outdoor shot, was dark by the time I finished up.
Drove it around the block, no real issues. It did fling either driveshaft or clutch linkage grease on the exhaust, so had that great burning grease smell. Edit to add picture, yep, big ole blob of u-joint grease right on the catalytic converter heat shield, which apparently gets really hot!!!
Will wash it tomorrow, I did at least clean the windshield tonight.
A few years ago, during one of my visits to Baton Rouge, the Jeep would not start, whatever gas that was in the tank had evaporated out. IIRC I added 5 gallons of ethanol free gas to it, and it started up and drove fine. When I picked it up this time, the gas gauge was reading a hair above the empty line, but it would not start until we dumped about 3 gallons of gas into it. It started up and ran, smoked pretty bad. Grey smoke, not like oil burning, just really exhaust smelly. After that initial start up, no more smoke.
Anyway, I might try to just run it out of whatever gas it has left in it before adding new fuel. It surprisingly starts right up, fast idles, and curb idles perfect. Getting a little low speed jerking in third gear around 1,500 RPM. Definitely not going to adjust anything until I resolve the potential old fuel issue. Might just run it down low, syphon whatever fuel is left out, refill the tank, and change the fuel filter. We will see. One good thing, OEM 20 gallon plastic fuel tank, so hopefully no major rust in the fuel system issues. It does still have all the original steel fuel lines, though...
Only other issue that I suspect: I pulled the air cleaner lid off after it warmed up before changing the engine oil out. I had a little condensation present on the inside of the air cleaner lid, over the pulse air tubes. Stuck my finger in both ports, a little sooty in their. Wondering if one/both of the back flow valves are partially stuck allowing some exhaust gas to reach the air cleaner. Easy enough to check once I start It up again.
Plan on cleaning it tomorrow, maybe work through the fuel issues and drive it this weekend. And check for leaks......
The Jeep was running perfect when I parked it 6 years ago, hope to get it back to that form relatively easy
Besides the minor jerk/surge, which is hopefully just a stale fuel issue, everything else seems fine. Steering, brakes, clutch, transmission, all electrical (including all gauges) working well.
That's it for now.
Looks like the oil pan drain plug. Oil pan gasket/rear main seal areas seem dry.
Drove it around the neighborhood to get it warmed up, then maintenance time. Figured after 6 years, time to change the engine oil and filter.
The Jeep had minor puddles under it through the years it was stored in Baton Rouge. I checked both axles, transmission, transfer case, radiator, PS fluid levels while I was draining the engine oil. All fluid levels were fine, nothing low.
Went ahead and greased the steering/suspension/clutch linkage/drive shafts with the grease gun while I was at it.
Quick outdoor shot, was dark by the time I finished up.
Drove it around the block, no real issues. It did fling either driveshaft or clutch linkage grease on the exhaust, so had that great burning grease smell. Edit to add picture, yep, big ole blob of u-joint grease right on the catalytic converter heat shield, which apparently gets really hot!!!
Will wash it tomorrow, I did at least clean the windshield tonight.
A few years ago, during one of my visits to Baton Rouge, the Jeep would not start, whatever gas that was in the tank had evaporated out. IIRC I added 5 gallons of ethanol free gas to it, and it started up and drove fine. When I picked it up this time, the gas gauge was reading a hair above the empty line, but it would not start until we dumped about 3 gallons of gas into it. It started up and ran, smoked pretty bad. Grey smoke, not like oil burning, just really exhaust smelly. After that initial start up, no more smoke.
Anyway, I might try to just run it out of whatever gas it has left in it before adding new fuel. It surprisingly starts right up, fast idles, and curb idles perfect. Getting a little low speed jerking in third gear around 1,500 RPM. Definitely not going to adjust anything until I resolve the potential old fuel issue. Might just run it down low, syphon whatever fuel is left out, refill the tank, and change the fuel filter. We will see. One good thing, OEM 20 gallon plastic fuel tank, so hopefully no major rust in the fuel system issues. It does still have all the original steel fuel lines, though...
Only other issue that I suspect: I pulled the air cleaner lid off after it warmed up before changing the engine oil out. I had a little condensation present on the inside of the air cleaner lid, over the pulse air tubes. Stuck my finger in both ports, a little sooty in their. Wondering if one/both of the back flow valves are partially stuck allowing some exhaust gas to reach the air cleaner. Easy enough to check once I start It up again.
Plan on cleaning it tomorrow, maybe work through the fuel issues and drive it this weekend. And check for leaks......
The Jeep was running perfect when I parked it 6 years ago, hope to get it back to that form relatively easy
Besides the minor jerk/surge, which is hopefully just a stale fuel issue, everything else seems fine. Steering, brakes, clutch, transmission, all electrical (including all gauges) working well.
That's it for now.
Last edited:
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
None. Staying as close to stock as possible with this one.
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
Boooooring
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Quick wash job this afternoon, cleaned up well.
Wiped all the grease off the catalytic converter heat shield, got rid of that burning smell. But, still have an engine oil burning smell. Not a combustion burning smell, like an oil leak burning off the exhaust.
Quick drive, valve cover gasket gushing pretty good on the driverside of the engine.
Hard to see, but it puddles up pretty good in the little cylinder head depressions on this side. Funny thing about it, you can let it cool down, wipe up the oil, restart, no leaks until it reaches a certain temperature/amount of time, then like clock work it starts to leak. Maybe get lucky with a plugged up PCV valve, doubtful. I reckon the cork gasket that came with the aluminum valve cover dried out over the last 6 years? Bolts were still snug. Since it's nice weather this weekend, probably work on this next week after work at night.
I still remember what fun the valve cover sealing work was on this Jeep from years ago...... Drain coolant, disconnect upper radiator hose, remove pcv valve and lines, move steel fuel line and distributor vacuum line out the way, remove pulse air solenoid, remove rear valve cover breather hose, remove heater core to rear intake manifold heater hose, remove air cleaner, and a million other vacuum lines and wires
Oh, and remove serpentine belt and driver side idler pulley/bracket that covers riverside valve cover flange. Think that's it
At least this will be an easy fix!!
That's it for now!!
Wiped all the grease off the catalytic converter heat shield, got rid of that burning smell. But, still have an engine oil burning smell. Not a combustion burning smell, like an oil leak burning off the exhaust.
Quick drive, valve cover gasket gushing pretty good on the driverside of the engine.
Hard to see, but it puddles up pretty good in the little cylinder head depressions on this side. Funny thing about it, you can let it cool down, wipe up the oil, restart, no leaks until it reaches a certain temperature/amount of time, then like clock work it starts to leak. Maybe get lucky with a plugged up PCV valve, doubtful. I reckon the cork gasket that came with the aluminum valve cover dried out over the last 6 years? Bolts were still snug. Since it's nice weather this weekend, probably work on this next week after work at night.
I still remember what fun the valve cover sealing work was on this Jeep from years ago...... Drain coolant, disconnect upper radiator hose, remove pcv valve and lines, move steel fuel line and distributor vacuum line out the way, remove pulse air solenoid, remove rear valve cover breather hose, remove heater core to rear intake manifold heater hose, remove air cleaner, and a million other vacuum lines and wires
Oh, and remove serpentine belt and driver side idler pulley/bracket that covers riverside valve cover flange. Think that's it
At least this will be an easy fix!!
That's it for now!!
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Messed with this one a bit this morning.
PCV valve was a little gunked up, cleaned it out and reinstall. Long shot but worth a shot.
Cleaned up all the puddles of leaked engine oil off the top of the driver side cylinder head.
Started up the engine, ran about 4 or 5 minutes, oil started gushing out the driver side of valve cover/gasket, near the forward most driver side bolt hole.
So much oil is leaking out from this area it runs down the side of the engine block.
No other valve cover leaks? Oil runs down block, hits oil pan flange, runs down and back and drips off oil pan. Maybe the oil pan drain plug is not leaking?
Almost wondering if the driver side serpentine belt idler pulley bracket that bolts next to valve cover busted the cover? I remember being concerned about this when I installed this cover, and I previously broke an aluminum cover due to contact with a similar bracket from a dealer add on AC kit. I'm talking about the aluminum bracket that sits over the lower valve cover flange in the picture below, between the fuel filter and side of valve cover.
I guess I'll know when I pull all this mess apart.
I was able to at least fix the broken battery cable end!!
Let it cool down, wiped up all the leaked up engine oil, then put it back into the garage.
PCV valve was a little gunked up, cleaned it out and reinstall. Long shot but worth a shot.
Cleaned up all the puddles of leaked engine oil off the top of the driver side cylinder head.
Started up the engine, ran about 4 or 5 minutes, oil started gushing out the driver side of valve cover/gasket, near the forward most driver side bolt hole.
So much oil is leaking out from this area it runs down the side of the engine block.
No other valve cover leaks? Oil runs down block, hits oil pan flange, runs down and back and drips off oil pan. Maybe the oil pan drain plug is not leaking?
Almost wondering if the driver side serpentine belt idler pulley bracket that bolts next to valve cover busted the cover? I remember being concerned about this when I installed this cover, and I previously broke an aluminum cover due to contact with a similar bracket from a dealer add on AC kit. I'm talking about the aluminum bracket that sits over the lower valve cover flange in the picture below, between the fuel filter and side of valve cover.
I guess I'll know when I pull all this mess apart.
I was able to at least fix the broken battery cable end!!
Let it cool down, wiped up all the leaked up engine oil, then put it back into the garage.
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Picked up a pack of stickers at Michael's, should come in handy when I have to start disconnecting/moving/removing all the vacuum lines before removing the valve cover.
A few different valve cover gaskets I already had stashed in my garage.
This Mahle gasket appears to be two layers of cork sandwiching a thin metal strip.
Might try this Felpro gasket, mix of cork and rubber around a thin metal binder strip.
This is a regular thin Felpro cork gasket.
A few different valve cover gaskets I already had stashed in my garage.
This Mahle gasket appears to be two layers of cork sandwiching a thin metal strip.
Might try this Felpro gasket, mix of cork and rubber around a thin metal binder strip.
This is a regular thin Felpro cork gasket.
