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Speedhut gauge install, wiring update/fix, switchplate

So, I powered up the first time tonight, they look AMAZING! Only question so far is that the tach seems to do a self test sweep, and then go to 2000 rpm (haven't started it yet)..... Is this part of the programming?
 
I don't think so. Does it get all the way to the top of the range in its test sweep? I had an issue with the voltmeter initially that the art was rotated slightly in the gauge body so it was reading 9V instead of 12. I'm sure they'll be more than happy to help if you call tomorrow.

First time the low gas lift has come on for a. Actual low gas level :headbang:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1397439727.968840.jpg

Tried to get a more focused shot of all the lit gauges.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1397439865.723131.jpg
 
Do your "switch labels" that light up (like the ones for the HVAC) bleed light out the back side? My labels bleed so much light on the back side of my dash it's almost like having a floor light on all the time. I'm thinking bout painting the back side of each one black to trap the light in.
 
I have some black cloth tape I use on mine to let the "heat" from the bulbs escape. Don't know if the paint would insulate enough to make a difference, but I had the tape.:wave:
 
tower210 said:
Do your "switch labels" that light up (like the ones for the HVAC) bleed light out the back side? My labels bleed so much light on the back side of my dash it's almost like having a floor light on all the time. I'm thinking bout painting the back side of each one black to trap the light in.
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I never noticed that on mine, are they stock? I replaced the bulbs in a number of my stock ones, don't know if aftermarket are less opaque?

I broke my wiper switch one when I did the gauges :banghead: and need to source a replacement of some flavor.
 
I've got one for you BigW,

The aftermarkets do bleed a little light, some behind and I have had some sets that won't even come close to sealing to dash and leave a glow around them. on the exposed side. I had to use a strip of electrical tape for a "gasket". :wave:
 
BTW, I asked them about lighting the hands on the clock and they said it's simply too hard to light both hands stacked on top of one another like they are. :shrug:
 
bigwalton said:
BTW, I asked them about lighting the hands on the clock and they said it's simply too hard to light both hands stacked on top of one another like they are. :shrug:
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Wait, so the clock is useless at night?
 
Polarfire said:
Maybe they could at least put some luminous paint on them?
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Not sure how tight the gauges are, most luminous paints such as those used in watches, are highly hygroscopic, and don't function well when wet......
 
Bigwalton,

Okay, so a small project of wiring the KC lights has expanded to doing it right and adding accessory fuse panels similar to yours. I'm trying to decide what goes on battery power and what goes on ignition power so I can size them correctly. As I always think #WWBWD (we're trending again) I referred back to this thread and I see that it looks like you have a wire labeled "voltm" with battery power. Does that mean that your SpeedHut voltmeter is constantly displaying your battery voltage?
 
cdvcj8 said:
Bigwalton,

Okay, so a small project of wiring the KC lights has expanded to doing it right and adding accessory fuse panels similar to yours. I'm trying to decide what goes on battery power and what goes on ignition power so I can size them correctly. As I always think #WWBWD (we're trending again) I referred back to this thread and I see that it looks like you have a wire labeled "voltm" with battery power. Does that mean that your SpeedHut voltmeter is constantly displaying your battery voltage?
Click to expand...

I don't claim to do everything right, so beware on the WWBWD stuff ;)

That wire is the signal voltage, the power to the Speedhut volt gauge is separate so the gauge turns on/off with all of the others.
 
I'll settle for mostly right 👍
I understand my confusion now I was thinking stock voltmeter. Thanks!
Now I just have decide what is going to be switched vs battery power. Balance between convenience and possibly killing the battery if left on I guess.


 
Exactly. The one suggestion I would have is to be sure that you leave enough wire in all your power feeds to be able to simply move the wire over to the other bus if you decide to switch things up.
 
BW,
When you wired up your Speedhut gauges, what source did you connect to the "+12 volts keyed ignition (red wire)" and the "+12 volts dash lighting (white wire)"?
Also, did you use the same source for the for the white wire above with the white wire input to the inverter (+12 volts dash lighting)?

My first time ever wiring a vehicle was recently when I installed a Painless harness in my Scrambler so I'm not well versed electrically.

Thanks,
Chip


 
The white wire for the inverter I wired into the dash wire (can control off the dimmer of light switch or the inverter). I left the inverter on high and used the dash dimmer to dim (when I tested). 12v Ign white wire I ran to a distribution box on the fender. That is powered by a relay but the control ign. power was a extra under the dash red ign. power. I installed the painless harness at the same time (my cj8 build).
 
Chipster1990 said:
BW,
When you wired up your Speedhut gauges, what source did you connect to the "+12 volts keyed ignition (red wire)" and the "+12 volts dash lighting (white wire)"?
Also, did you use the same source for the for the white wire above with the white wire input to the inverter (+12 volts dash lighting)?

My first time ever wiring a vehicle was recently when I installed a Painless harness in my Scrambler so I'm not well versed electrically.
Click to expand...

I debated about the dimmer power and the Speedhut dimmer switch, after playing with it before permanently installing things I decided to feed the SH dimmer from the stock dimmer dash light power feed and mounted the SH dimmer in the dash below the clock. My Moab trip and a LOT of night driving proved that this was the best plan because I find that the backlight on the SH gages is way stronger than the CJ dash lights and I needed to dim them down separately. Had I dimmed things off the stock dimmer, all the stock lights go too dim.

Surprisingly, I found it's also a big help when you need lights on in the daytime (raining, in specific) to be able to read the LCD display.

On the keyed ignition power, you just need to find a good hot start/run wire. I don't remember the specs but I don't think these gages pull very much power at all. Worth checking to be sure.

Since you have a painless kit, I would think that would be easy to do. Without cutting/splicing, you could use a fuse tap in the fusebox like this:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/installation-supplies/mini-fuse-circuit-tap/545/1739/
 
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