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SR4 Transmission Issues

Wayne

Wayne

Legacy Registered User
City
Cape Coral
State
FL
Hello:
Thank goodness I have not had to post for awhile, just been a looker - until today.
I have a transmission question please.
I have the SR4 transmission. I know one likes them, but it's cool for me since much of my driving is street riding.
I was at a light today, heard a weird sound, shifted into 1st gear and got a horrible gear grinding sound, then and a loud grinding sound into second and I was able to pullover. I did see some fluid on the street.
If I start the motor I cannot selects any gears. If I do not crank the motor I can select all four gears and reverse.
Any idea what my issue is?
Cheers.
 
Just in case...

I have a drivetain I may be separating for sale.
1981 4 speed granny.
I'm in South Carolina
 
CHIEFWAHO said:
Hydraulic clutch? If so was the fluid on street from the trans or hydraulic clutch?
Click to expand...
Other than fluid leak, ( I'm not 100% sure where it came from - but it was there ) how would/could I tell if I have an hydraulic clutch? I am confident it's cable?
Thank You.
 
The factory 4 cylinder had a hydraulic clutch.

The factory 6 cylinder had a linkage rod clutch.

It is common for the bushings in the rods to wear and cause engagement issues. Also flexing during wheeling can cause issues with the linkage. The hydraulic setup does not have these issues.
 
bigwalton said:
Your clutch pedal would be attached to a rod through the firewall to a master cylinder like this in the engine bay, on the back of the firewall:

www.quadratec.com

Crown Automotive J5359822 Clutch Master Cylinder for 80-86 Jeep CJ Series with 4 & 6 Cylinder Engines

www.quadratec.com www.quadratec.com

There would be a hydraulic line from it down to the transmission where the slave cylinder would activate the clutch.

Does your clutch feel the same as it always has when you push it? (engine running or not won't matter)
Click to expand...
Hello mate:
Yes, the clutch feel the same as before. When I push the clutch in - I cannot engage a gear.
I can engage all gears and reverse without pushing the clutch in (With The Engine Off)
 

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You have the mechanical linkage setup. There will be a rod that exits the firewall towards the bottom at about 45 degrees then goes to a horizontal tube. On the other end of the tube will be another rod that runs back to the bellhousing. There it pushes on the clutch fork and the other end attaches to the throwout bearing.

It sounds like you have some internal transmission issue, but it could be an exploded clutch. Can’t really tell without some exploratory surgery.

IMG_2686.png
 
Check the simple stuff first.

1. Make sure Item #4 shown (clutch adjustment rod) above didn't fall out of the clutch fork (Item #2 above). If so, you aren't releasing the clutch at all when you push the pedal. Pedal may feel soft or have no resistance to the floor. Also check that bolts holding on the bellcrank (Item 5) haven't backed out or are loose). Any slop in the mechanical linkage will give issues.

2. Your clutch adjustment may be off, thus leaving the clutch always engaged. You would have to shorten the adjustment rod to back off the throw-out bearing distance to the clutch pack.

3. After those checks, it may be the clutch pack itself. That involves taking out the transmission.
 
Odd about fluid on the road from anything to do with a mechanical clutch…
 
ag4ever said:
You have the mechanical linkage setup. There will be a rod that exits the firewall towards the bottom at about 45 degrees then goes to a horizontal tube. On the other end of the tube will be another rod that runs back to the bellhousing. There it pushes on the clutch fork and the other end attaches to the throwout bearing.

It sounds like you have some internal transmission issue, but it could be an exploded clutch. Can’t really tell without some exploratory surgery.

View attachment 117380
Click to expand...
 
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