Taking Built CJ7 apart to make CJ8 For Winter Use
- Thread starter jammer1
- Start date
Saturday I sanded out the runs. Also sanded out the sag. Unfortunately sanded through on the hood (expected that one) and the rear quarter panel. Did the first wet sand on 2/3rds of the tub, got the 2 sand through's taped and ready to shoot. Monday had just a little time, enough to shoot the repairs and pull the paper and tape. Today I wet sanded the repairs then final wet sand with 2,000 grit. I know I didn't put enough paint on (should have bought a gallon instead of using up what I had. Trying to keep this more like a daily driver, if I went that far I know I'll never stop. End up with another jeep that I'll never drive). Rubbed it out using a foam pad instead of the wool pad. Then did the next step and polished her. Only going this far on the tub and hood. When I put the body on the frame if the fenders need rubbing out it's easier with them mounted. Unfortunately with the light and white paint not much to see.
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Finished the paint, wet sand and buff. Put the body on the frame and drilled the tubs front 2 body mount holes (tub and frame). Tub mount was so dry that a layer on the top of the mount wasn't bonded to the mount (kinda like a cold solder joint). Both sides popped out when the drill went through
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Bodies set until fall when I start the switch over. I'll use the windshield frame, tail gate. Leaning toward getting a new dash (custom) since I have the vintage air system and would like to install 2 more gauges in the dash (vs under the dash).
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mhinchliffe
CJ-8 Member
- City
- W-S
- State
- NC
So you're going to "freeze" this thread until it gets cold again? You could do this in 2 weeks with the pace you work at!
In another 4 weeks I start my season (work 6 to 7 days a week, 10 - 12 hr days). If all goes well next fall will be the switching everything over. If it's a really good year I'll also be trying to get the motor for the other cj8 build. Got to get back to jersey jeeps on a cj8 title to be able to do the switch. Jeep looks much better in person and phone. Don't know why the glare and blurry pics when posted. Probably bad lighting.
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
I cut in two additional gauges on my dash when I went with the Speedhut gauges because they just needed to be there. I had to pull the defrost duct to make it work and need to figure out a work-around to get something hooked back up to the windshield vent.
I'm going to miss this thread while it sleeps
One of the forum members had a dash made that the guy did a real good job with angling the 2 1/6" gauges. I'm hoping that will bring the gauge out some. I'm having trouble getting a good view of the gauge in the dash. I like the panel switches you have.
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
Yep, angling them would be the way to go for sure. At some point I'd like to figure out a way to do that cleanly.
I made up the switch panel myself to fill the stereo hole after moving the head unit to the console. After the time it took to do it, I'd just go to a pre-made setup like the Painless Trail Rocker below the dash and I have thought that I should have mounted those two extra gauges in that opening. Maybe do a new "cover plate" for that section of the dash or something to hide the stereo opening and provide the holes for the gauges.
Oh well, live and learn.
- City
- East Norriton
- State
- PA
Autometer used to make little wedged shape spacers to angle gauges. That was 15-20 heats ago, do not know if they still make them. Double D Fabrication in Lititz, Pa makes some nice gauges and panels. He built an 8 for somebody on the list, I also heard he was not really building dashes anymore also. I have a dash from him, 3rd owner but never installed yet, maybe this summer.
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
Seen the autometer (and other) bezels but would have to find out for certain that they can be made to work with the speedhut gauges that clamp to the back of the dash differently (threaded ring). You’d almost need two of them per gauge offset to give the threaded ring something to sit against. Then there’s a question if there’s enough thread on the gauge body.
I had the idea to find some properly sized pipe/tube and play with cutting some but it’s so far down on the priority list that it’ll likely never happen.
I had the idea to find some properly sized pipe/tube and play with cutting some but it’s so far down on the priority list that it’ll likely never happen.
I was worried about that. Wanted to talk to the builder and if it won't work build it like this with no bezels and enough spacing for the rings. Only difference is out 1/2" at drivers side and 1 to 1 1/4" at pass side. Enough to be able to see gauges, but not out so much that it becomes the total focal point of the dash. Talking about the kicker panel. https://sites.google.com/site/doubledfab/Home/jeep-cj-dashs
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mhinchliffe
CJ-8 Member
- City
- W-S
- State
- NC
Why a solid cover for the cowl?
On the cj7 to cj8 project, I installed a vintage air heat/a/c unit. They take the air from inside the cab. In winter it helps give more heat in the cab. On the other cj8 project that's waiting for a engine I rebuilt the heater box. Planning on in the future doing the same. Tired of leaks, and lack of heat.
mhinchliffe
CJ-8 Member
- City
- W-S
- State
- NC
I kind of figured it had something to do with the HVAC.
I have plenty of heat but that’s here in NC. Even at 32* and a soft top it wasn’t so bad. Being from outside Canton originally I know that cold you’re going to be trying to stay warm in.
I have plenty of heat but that’s here in NC. Even at 32* and a soft top it wasn’t so bad. Being from outside Canton originally I know that cold you’re going to be trying to stay warm in.