The story of Peggy's jeep.


CJ-8 Member Member
I skipped a few updates...

I cleaned the inner fenders and fogged it with rustoleum glass white. Recalled cleaned it up.


I reinstalled the front clip.


I cobbled the factory s10 exhaust and clamped a flow master on. This will be temporary until I get the exhaust professionally done.

Engine starts right up, goes from open to closed loop. I don’t have the VSS or TCC wired at all yet. I will start that eventually. Some people never hook it up, I will because it came that way from the factory.

I plan on using the Dakota digital 8 pulse pass through VSS with the module to bring the signal to 2 pulse for the TBI computer.

I’ll then use an 80s Monte Carlo brake switch for the TCC.

I bought some plumbing fittings from Home Depot to “T” the oil pressure port for both the computer/fuel pump oil switch and the jeep gauge. I also bought a hex bushing to take the jeep 1/8” to the gm 1/4” npt port.

For everyone using a stock jeep radiator with a gm engine. Check out a 22941 radiator hose for a 2013 Chrysler 300 with a 5.7. It crosses under the crank pulley to the drivers side port on the radiator. I used the stock 89 s10 upper hose. It’s not perfect, but it works.

I will also try to get more pictures as 2 for the amount of work is seriously lacking...


CJ-8 Member Member
Wiring/gauge information:

GM TBI has 2 temp senders. One for the computer, 1 for the temp gauge. The sending unit in the intake with a yellow wire is for the computer. The one in the passenger side cylinder head is for the gauge. It is 3/8” npt, the jeep sending unit it 1/8” npt. A hex bushing found at ace hardware or Home Depot will work for this.

Oil pressure: For some reason my i6 had a oil sending unit with 1/4” npt. It had a reducer to 1/8” npt going into the engine. The 4.3 only has 2 suitable places to put the sensor. 1 near the oil pump, the second by the distributor. I want to run factory manifolds, so the port near the oil pump won’t work. I bought a 1/4” “T”, but quickly found out the GM passage and factory sensor is 1/8”. I’ll probably just get some reducers and hook everything up.

Alternator: I haven’t finalized it yet, but am getting close. The GM alternator has an exciter wire (brown in my case). It needs fed a reduced voltage to start the alternator. I had a 10 ohm 10 watt resistor laying around, so I connected it to the brown wire and alternator with the jeep running. The alternator started charging once connected. Unhooked it, then the alternator quit charging. I’ll find an ignition source and wire the resistor. We will see if this causes backfeeding to the coil/computer with a “can’t turn off with the key” issue.

A cool thing happened today. Since the jeep now has an automatic my wife took it around the block.


Merry Christmas and happy jeeping!


CJ-8 Member Member
I’ve finished quite a few of the squawks. I used the resistor I had laying around to start the alternator, in line with ignition power. Oil pressure and temp senders are hooked up and working.

Biggest improvement was a 2 pulse pass through VSS from Howell. Without the VSS the computer would throw a code once warmed up and driving down the road. Typically when coasting. Then the idle would be elevated slightly. Seems to be much happier now.

Biggest progress was on the exhaust. I don’t see any way to run the exhaust other than under the front of the Chevy oil pan. So, I bought a couple 2 1/4” J bends and made a crossover pipe to bring the passenger exhaust to the drivers side.

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I wrapped the exhaust as it comes within 1/4” of the oil pan. This was to provide as much front driveshaft clearance as possible. I used the factory S10 manifolds. Aftermarket headers may have helped, but I’ve spent enough money already...

I have about 3/4” clearance from the brake proportioner and 1/4” from the bellhousing on the drivers side. Since it’s wrapped I think it will be ok.