The story of Peggy's jeep.

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
OKC
State
OK
#81
I skipped a few updates...

I cleaned the inner fenders and fogged it with rustoleum glass white. Recalled cleaned it up.

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I reinstalled the front clip.

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I cobbled the factory s10 exhaust and clamped a flow master on. This will be temporary until I get the exhaust professionally done.

Engine starts right up, goes from open to closed loop. I don’t have the VSS or TCC wired at all yet. I will start that eventually. Some people never hook it up, I will because it came that way from the factory.

I plan on using the Dakota digital 8 pulse pass through VSS with the module to bring the signal to 2 pulse for the TBI computer.

I’ll then use an 80s Monte Carlo brake switch for the TCC.

I bought some plumbing fittings from Home Depot to “T” the oil pressure port for both the computer/fuel pump oil switch and the jeep gauge. I also bought a hex bushing to take the jeep 1/8” to the gm 1/4” npt port.

For everyone using a stock jeep radiator with a gm engine. Check out a 22941 radiator hose for a 2013 Chrysler 300 with a 5.7. It crosses under the crank pulley to the drivers side port on the radiator. I used the stock 89 s10 upper hose. It’s not perfect, but it works.

I will also try to get more pictures as 2 for the amount of work is seriously lacking...
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
OKC
State
OK
#82
Wiring/gauge information:

GM TBI has 2 temp senders. One for the computer, 1 for the temp gauge. The sending unit in the intake with a yellow wire is for the computer. The one in the passenger side cylinder head is for the gauge. It is 3/8” npt, the jeep sending unit it 1/8” npt. A hex bushing found at ace hardware or Home Depot will work for this.

Oil pressure: For some reason my i6 had a oil sending unit with 1/4” npt. It had a reducer to 1/8” npt going into the engine. The 4.3 only has 2 suitable places to put the sensor. 1 near the oil pump, the second by the distributor. I want to run factory manifolds, so the port near the oil pump won’t work. I bought a 1/4” “T”, but quickly found out the GM passage and factory sensor is 1/8”. I’ll probably just get some reducers and hook everything up.

Alternator: I haven’t finalized it yet, but am getting close. The GM alternator has an exciter wire (brown in my case). It needs fed a reduced voltage to start the alternator. I had a 10 ohm 10 watt resistor laying around, so I connected it to the brown wire and alternator with the jeep running. The alternator started charging once connected. Unhooked it, then the alternator quit charging. I’ll find an ignition source and wire the resistor. We will see if this causes backfeeding to the coil/computer with a “can’t turn off with the key” issue.

A cool thing happened today. Since the jeep now has an automatic my wife took it around the block.

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Merry Christmas and happy jeeping!
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
OKC
State
OK
#83
I’ve finished quite a few of the squawks. I used the resistor I had laying around to start the alternator, in line with ignition power. Oil pressure and temp senders are hooked up and working.

Biggest improvement was a 2 pulse pass through VSS from Howell. Without the VSS the computer would throw a code once warmed up and driving down the road. Typically when coasting. Then the idle would be elevated slightly. Seems to be much happier now.

Biggest progress was on the exhaust. I don’t see any way to run the exhaust other than under the front of the Chevy oil pan. So, I bought a couple 2 1/4” J bends and made a crossover pipe to bring the passenger exhaust to the drivers side.

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I wrapped the exhaust as it comes within 1/4” of the oil pan. This was to provide as much front driveshaft clearance as possible. I used the factory S10 manifolds. Aftermarket headers may have helped, but I’ve spent enough money already...

I have about 3/4” clearance from the brake proportioner and 1/4” from the bellhousing on the drivers side. Since it’s wrapped I think it will be ok.
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
OKC
State
OK
#84
If anyone else is looking at an NP241C... check out the early models with the shorter front output. They have the standard 2” spline bore - like a 203/205 with 32 splines.
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So, then you can buy a 1310 non cv end yoke. You will need to change the seal though, as the end yoke has a larger seal surface than the factory flange.

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I had a slight leak between the clocking ring and transfercase. Make sure to NOT have the studs from the clocking ring to transfercase stick out beyond the surface of the ring. Otherwise you have to pull the entire assembly out and start over...
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
OKC
State
OK
#85
Got new drivelines installed with Tom woods driveshafts front and rear. Rear is a 24.5” CV style, front is a 42” standard CJ front with 1.25” tube. Both use 1310 joints.

Got a new style flush mount JB Custom fabrication cable shifter. No idea how I will get it to fit at this point. Very large unit for a CJ. No rush anyways, due to the 1/2 to 3/4” clearance with the front driveshaft... I won’t be wheeling until I put the lift on.

The to do list is getting shorter. I added a bit of 3/16” stock to my spare tire mount to add my CB.
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Probably could have pushed it a little farther over, but it will work fine.

Steering wheel had some slop. Once you pull the wheel off with a steering wheel puller, you will need a second special tool to remove the lock plate. Both are actually really easy (with the tools).
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After the lock plate is out you will need to remove the turn signal assembly. Make sure to pop the harness loose under the dash to give you more slack. Once that is out of the way you can get to two of the three 1/4” bolts that will take the slack out. The third is difficult to get to without disassembling the whole column. I started to, then changed my mind after pulling the pivot pins.

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An 8-32 will pull the pin out with either a socket or the main steering wheel nut to pull against the column. Personally, if my column comes loose again... I will just tighten the 2 bolts that are easier to get to.
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
OKC
State
OK
#86
Found a bit of motivation to get moving again. Took a day off work and a friend came over. We installed the 4” BDS lift springs. Since these springs were used, I tore the spring packs apart and wire wheeled each individual leaf. After that I painted them. Finally I put new Teflon pads and centering bolts.

Looks like I gained about 5.5” in the front, 4.5” in the rear. This includes 3/4” lift shackles front and rear.
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I want a good ride on and off-road with this. I went with Rubicon express shocks for their extreme duty CJ lift. They are bilstein with a lifetime warranty. Seems to ride great. However, as expected bump steer is noticeable. I think I will do a tie rod/drag link flip. Hopefully that will be enough to avoid needing a new pitman arm.

Flexes alright too.
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xatu40

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
DeBary
State
FL
#87
Steering wheel had some slop. Once you pull the wheel off with a steering wheel puller, you will need a second special tool to remove the lock plate. Both are actually really easy (with the tools).
What is the special tool required for the lock plate? Getting ready to replace a turn signal cam and thought it was easily accessible once the wheel comes off.
 

ag4ever

Average Nut
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Richmond
State
TX
#88
What is the special tool required for the lock plate? Getting ready to replace a turn signal cam and thought it was easily accessible once the wheel comes off.
It is basically a piece of metal bent into a “U” shape that uses the steering wheel retainer threads to put pressure on the lock plate to allow removal of the retainer clip. Search YouTube for CJ turn signal replacement and you should find a video of how to remove it.
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
OKC
State
OK
#89
Just make sure to grab the special lock tool when you get the puller... otherwise you will make a second trip like I did!
 

xatu40

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
DeBary
State
FL
#90
Thanks!! Found it on YouTube. Got a couple pullers in the garage, may have that tool. At least now I know what I'm looking for.
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
OKC
State
OK
#91
I’ve just been wrapping up small details over the past few weeks. I tried to make the cable shifter work, but I just didn’t have the room.

I had the shifter from the S10 and the shift arm from the 241c. It was a fair amount of work, but fun fabrication to make something essentially for free.
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I didn’t take pictures of the whole process. Seems like my fab time is also limited, so I am always in a hurry.

Made some u bolt flip plates for a friends scrambler.

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I still have a bunch of little projects to take care of. For the most part it is road worthy as is. I want to bring it to the big meat run in Disney OK in a couple weeks, so a skid plate is required.

Started to form a skid plate. 12”x37” 3/16” thick with a 2” drop. I will still need another drop for the bottom of the transfercase. But this is a good start.

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A brake to make the bends would have been nice.
 

bigwalton

Picture cravin' AK Postal nut
Staff member
SOA Member
City
Dexter
State
MI
#92
Made some u bolt flip plates for a friends scrambler.

I must need more caffeine, but I'm struggling to wrap my head around what you've done here. Could you post a thread on these? I don't want to derail this one but flipping the u-bolts is something I'm looking to do on mine (in the rear) right now, so I'm particularly interested in these.
 

wm69

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
God's Country
State
AR
#93
What is the special tool required for the lock plate? Getting ready to replace a turn signal cam and thought it was easily accessible once the wheel comes off.
It's a free rental tool at Autozone.
 

jammer1

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Maple Hts.
State
Oh
#94
I want a good ride on and off-road with this. I went with Rubicon express shocks for their extreme duty CJ lift. They are bilstein with a lifetime warranty. Seems to ride great. However, as expected bump steer is noticeable. I think I will do a tie rod/drag link flip. Hopefully that will be enough to avoid needing a new pitman arm.

On the one cj8 project I did the Rubicon express 4.5" kit. I flipped the drag link. here's what it looks like. Remember it's a new kit with no engine to weigh it down. i don't know the drop of your pitman are or the lift of your springs. Hop this helps. B0019587.jpg B0019418.jpg
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
OKC
State
OK
#96
What flip did you use? I bought the tapered/tack weld inserts that you drill out the steering arms. Haven’t gotten to it yet as it’s not a “necessity” yet.
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
OKC
State
OK
#97
BW - I drew these parts up from scratch and made the top spring plates from 1/2” plate, the radius cuts out of 1/4”.

I took an old spring plates to find where the holes needed to be.
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Then cut a 2.5” hole in some 3” wide strap steel.

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We mocked everything up, then tacked the radius prices in place.

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Sorry for the lack of pics. If you want anything else, or the plans for the spring plates I could draw them up. Originally I made them on a napkin....
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
OKC
State
OK
#99
First trip after drive train, lift and front locker was mostly a success. I did manage to explode my drivers side locking hub.

A025024F-3B63-4E3C-95CA-CB59B0CD829B.jpeg

I have the 5 bolt hubs, I have a friend that has some 6 bolt hubs... but then I would need to swap the entire hub assembly. Not sure I am that motivated right now.

Other than that, everything ran and performed great. Besides the pre balance shaft 4.3 trying to shake itself apart at idle it is a very smooth running/driving vehicle. The 700r4s 3.06 first gear with the 241c 2.72 reduction has a great crawl ratio. The compression braking also was great - as long as you lock it in 1st or second on descent. It will free wheel otherwise.

I don’t think I will miss the manual at all.... at least as of now. It is stupid easy to drive, being locked in the front and trutrac in the rear will take me anywhere I need to go. The 4.3 is kind of a turd on the highway but has more than enough power off-road.

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I’ve had this thing for years and planned of lifting and swapping the engine. Now that it’s mostly done I’m not sure what to do next. I suppose I’ll start shopping for a j truck front 44.
 
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