Trail Scrambler Build/Rebuild-Chiefwaho

[Pepper]

This entire project / thread is awe inspiring. I'm just patching stuff together on my rig, this is frame up and incredible!!

 

[CHIEFWAHO]

I am still feverishly working on my rig.
Still taking pictures along the way, just to busy to get anything posted.

Did load the rolling chassis on the trailer and heading for the exhaust shop hopefully today or tomorrow.

 

[BIG_Mark]

Looks great, The Hydra assist was a good move, I'd strongly suggest adding a cooler to your steering lines that should help make all your steering components last longer.

One thing I did that was an unexpected benefit was to keep as much of your inner fenderwells intact (front fenders) they act as a fan shroud (up to a point) and help direct the air past your engine. If you can squeeze a fan shroud on your setup that would be even better, but your setup looks like mine, just enough room for what is already in there. Keeping the fan clutch on the stock fan is a good thing too.

Even on a franken-truck like yours keeping the donor parts in "stock-condition" is the best approach. P.S. when trimming down the wiring harness KEEP THE ENGINE DIAGNOSTIC WIRIING INTACT (My friend "Cleaned up" mine) it makes life easier in the future.

Now Get off the web and back to work!


Looks good mang..

 

[CHIEFWAHO]

Looks great,

Even on a franken-truck like yours keeping the donor parts in "stock-condition" is the best approach. P.S. when trimming down the wiring harness KEEP THE ENGINE DIAGNOSTIC WIRIING INTACT (My friend "Cleaned up" mine) it makes life easier in the future.

The harness was gone thru professionally.
Down to 5 wire hookup. diagnostic port is still intact. Computer flashed/wiped clean. only have to run 2 O2 sensors and MAFS.

 

[bigwalton]

The harness was gone thru professionally.
Down to 5 wire hookup. diagnostic port is still intact. Computer flashed/wiped clean. only have to run 2 O2 sensors and MAFS.

That sounds like my kind of setup!

 

[CHIEFWAHO]

trussed the rear / tie tubes to axle

tie ladder bar to truss
hopefully will distribute the load a little better

Lokar shifter for the TH400

front shock hoop

rear shocks

buddy Clay laying out the flat belly skid plate

 

[CHIEFWAHO]

oil pan skid

trans cooler

fuel lines

soon to be rear wheel wells

 

[CHIEFWAHO]

exhaust

passenger wraps around front of oil pan

 

[CHIEFWAHO]

That sounds like my kind of setup!

Hope I am smart enough to get it hooked up!

 

[bigwalton]

Hope I am smart enough to get it hooked up!

I think you'll manage.

Beautiful work, I'm so happy this Jeep is getting this treatment after watching/helping it through the previous stages... it's like watching a kid grow up (to be an NFL linebacker )!

 

[jjonesee]

Just curious, why not weld out the frame plates the full length?

By the way, I am building something similar - just much slower.

 

[Pepper]

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!
Looking great!! That's a LOT of progress.

How are the shock hoops connected to the frame. It's difficult to tell in the pics. Is there a bracket?

 

[CHIEFWAHO]

Just curious, why not weld out the frame plates the full length?

I suppose one could, just lots and lots of welding.
I will probably use a sealant on the top edge and leave the bottom open for drainage.

How are the shock hoops connected to the frame. It's difficult to tell in the pics. Is there a bracket?

In that pic they are only tacked in place. They weld 3 places to the frame. If you notice in the pic just to the right of the shock there is a piece of tube that runs down to the top of the frame.

 

[jjonesee]

I agree with the "lots of welding"

I call it practice..

 

[mysunnshine]

That sure looks like a way undersized trans cooler to me. That may work for a street-driven car but I doubt it will for your application.

 

[okjeep]

If you get a chance, try make the traction bar about 6-7 inches longer. I was amazed at how straight my jeep shoots on acceleration with the longer traction bar. I am currently trying to get the one in the wifes jeep longer as her jeep has a hard right torque lean and hard left rear lift on acceleration. Her traction bar is mounted on the drive's side as well where mine is on the passenger side but both are really close to the center of the axle.

 

[Pepper]

If you get a chance, try make the traction bar about 6-7 inches longer. I was amazed at how straight my jeep shoots on acceleration with the longer traction bar. I am currently trying to get the one in the wifes jeep longer as her jeep has a hard right torque lean and hard left rear lift on acceleration. Her traction bar is mounted on the drive's side as well where mine is on the passenger side but both are really close to the center of the axle.

I'm no expert on these matters but it is my understanding the the length of the traction bar should mount / match the length of the leaf springs. To do otherwise would limit the suspension flex because it will bind up between the traction bar and leaf packs.

 

[Kaiser8]

That sure looks like a way undersized trans cooler to me. That may work for a street-driven car but I doubt it will for your application.

Agreed.
I put a dedicated trans cooler behind the rad. Helps a bunch.
Even with this set-up, my 400 was at 260* at the end of Pritchet back in '06.

 

[CHIEFWAHO]

wheel well

cut off factory roll bar

body armor

more body to cut out

LEDs

painted the body armor with implement paint

future half-cab cage

 

[John N]

Looks Great, but.....

I think you're either distracted or just getting slower, I thought you'd have this done by now...