walkerhoundvm's rebuild thread

walkerhoundvm

Just trying to stay upright
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Cave Creek
State
AZ
Can't take any of the credit, but I agree that it looks good. It's all along the underside and in the wheel wells, too. I'm still debating whether I want carpet or not in the cab. Maybe I'll pick one up just for nights on the town...
 

Pman

Busted Knuckles
LIFETIME
City
Mount Pleasant
State
SC
Nice!! I’m one of those weirdos who like carpet. I’ll put mine back in once I have it all sealed up (and have it covered in the rain). Rain leaked in the cab like a sieve when I bought it, which was neglected by the PO which then compounded the rust problems in the front floor.
 

walkerhoundvm

Just trying to stay upright
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Cave Creek
State
AZ
Finally figured out the wiring on my mini-amp, and I can actually hear music while driving now! Kenwood Bluetooth 4 channel tucked in the glove box:
IMG_20200126_133055.jpg

with the remote secured on a short piece of aluminum stock:
IMG_20200126_133059.jpg

Still sorting out the check engine light. Replaced the MAP sensor, and now the only code I'm getting is a high idle speed code. I think it may be as simple as disconnecting the pcm and running the idle relearn steps... But me being me, I'll probably wait until I have time to replace the intake manifold gasket, throttle body, and knock sensors next month just to be thorough.
 

walkerhoundvm

Just trying to stay upright
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Cave Creek
State
AZ
Must be mini. No much can fit in our glove boxes. Cool ! The remote controls everything ?
Everything Bluetooth related (BT volume, song skip, play/pause), and can swap between Bluetooth and the in-dash stereo. The stereo controls everything radio and cassette player related.

It's a Kenwood M1824BT, perfect size and range. Doesn't get too hot in there, either :)
 

ag4ever

Average Nut
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Richmond
State
TX
Where is that restored jeep radio? I mean, the whole thing is perfect, then a digital radio?

Just funnin ya!
 

walkerhoundvm

Just trying to stay upright
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Cave Creek
State
AZ
Where is that restored jeep radio? I mean, the whole thing is perfect, then a digital radio?

Just funnin ya!
It's in the closet :) - I'm starting to strip the non-essential OEM stuff. I also have to come up with a way to have it send a power on signal to the amp. I think I might try to tap into the lamp circuit for that.
 

walkerhoundvm

Just trying to stay upright
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Cave Creek
State
AZ
Had the jeep down for the past week for some work.
1) Lifted up the passenger floor mat and found a puddle of coolant... Grr, back into the heater box.
2) The heater fan was also making a racket, so another reason to tackle the heater box.
2) Trying to sort out some CE codes, so wanted to replace the throttle body, intake gaskets, and the knock sensors.
3) Temps are creeping up here so wanted to build a fan shroud to help at stoplights in the heat.

Luckily all required me to drain the coolant, and most were fairly straightforward. Cut to the end, got everything done, but somethings up with the new knock sensors, so I'll have to go back into the manifold.

The heater core replacement was fairly simple, had that done in an afternoon. I had soldered the in/out pipes during the rebuild, but the leak was somewhere internal. Replaced it with an aluminum Spectra model that most shops carry. The fan lost a nut, I must not have tightened it very well. Buttoned all that back up Monday.

The manifold gaskets, throttle body, and knock sensors weren't too tough, but obviously there's room for error.. I think I should have brushed the threads in the head and maybe applied some copper anti-seize.

For the fan shroud, I wanted to make one using my fledgling fiberglass skills. Used some online writeups for some ideas. First, made a poster board template.
IMG_20200224_062708.jpg

Next, I transfered that to some thin fiberboard, and using fan measurements made the circular opening.
IMG_20200223_165433.jpg

Then, covered the mold with felt, secured with staples, and added some aluminum stock at the mounting holes.
IMG_20200224_064608.jpg

Went to work on the fiberglass.
IMG_20200224_153511.jpg

And ultimately rough sanded and smoothed out with multiple rounds of body filler and sanding.
IMG_20200228_115600.jpg

Followed up with some paint.
IMG_20200228_153252.jpg

Got it installed and checked for leaks - looking good all around.
IMG_20200228_183501.jpg

Noticeable suction at the grill now, and maybe it's running a touch cooler, but it's probably just my imagination :)

I'll be back in the intake in the next few days hopefully!
 

walkerhoundvm

Just trying to stay upright
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Cave Creek
State
AZ
Wow! Great job on the shroud!
Thanks - took a little more time and effort than I expected, but the results were worth it.

Spent yesterday afternoon tearing down the intake again. Turns out those knock sensors torque specs aren't "guttentight," but 15ft-lbs, which is a good bit less than that. Both sensors were frozen in the block, they have a pressed top that was free-spinning when I tried to back them out. Read up on some YouTube videos and decided to drill a bit to lock the top and side together and get them out. Success, but a waste of $80 on busted knock sensors. No more knock sensor codes.

Lesson learned - always check torque specs even if the part seems trivial.
 

walkerhoundvm

Just trying to stay upright
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Cave Creek
State
AZ
Chasing RPM drop below 400 when letting off the gas and 50psi (stable when off) at the rail, my last thought was a struggling fuel pump. I've seen a couple power surges, and it's sitting right next to a muffler (with a heat shield between), so thought I might be a good idea to try something else (I had the walbro in-line originally).

Getting faster at dropping the tank; dropped, swapped out sender for an in-tank pump from Nova, reinstalled. Replaced all lines and wires in a few hours. Back up and running, now just need to go for a test drive after morning meetings :)

Quiet, a little cleaner, and hopefully more reliable.
 

walkerhoundvm

Just trying to stay upright
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Cave Creek
State
AZ
You know you're a pro when you can do it without getting gas in your arm pits. :oops:
Lucky me I think I'm going to have to go in again. Pump was sucking air with 2.5 gallons left in the tank and I think my float is catching on something. Not to mention the rpm drop is still there. I've got it down to an art now.
 

walkerhoundvm

Just trying to stay upright
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Cave Creek
State
AZ
Really hoping I've got my chronic Check Engine light issue figured out finally. Last month I did the in-tank pump and the problem got worse, p0171 and p0174 every time I drove, often more than once if I cleared it on a drive. That really told me I was dealing with a fuel delivery problem, since after putting in the in-tank pump it now had more fuel line to go through to get to the engine.

And then it hit me. At the start of the rebuild I bought stainless fuel lines from Inline Tube, yes, the OEM specs with a 5/16" delivery line and a 1/4" return line. The LS calls for a 3/8" delivery and 5/16" return in stock form. Was that enough to trip the lean codes all the time? We're about to find out.

Dropped the tank AGAIN, and this time spent a bunch of time on the sender so that it would read just how I wanted. As it was, it was reading F until the tank was about half empty, then it'd quickly drop to E over the next 100 miles. That bugged me, so I really worked on the spare sender I had before installing it. Made a crude jig to figure out actual fuel in the tank using measurements I took over the course of several drives to figure out the resistance for 3/4 and 1/4 tank (16ohms and ~40ohms, respectively). The other values are easily found online, but with the additional info I was able to really dial it down, I hope.

IMG_20200610_191906 - Edited (1).jpg

For replacement fuel lines, I went with Hot Rod Fuel Hoses, and the experience was awesome. I would highly recommend them for any rebuild or LS swap. The owner provides second-to-none customer service, the product is awesome, and I am really happy with how it came out. They have a range of options in PTFE, wrapped tubing that you cut to size and install the connections on. Connections come in several colors as well. The process, from ripping out the old and installing the new, took me a weekend. Still watching for leaks and waiting to see if the CEL comes on. So far, so good.

If anyone is looking to replace their fuel lines for whatever reason, the company gave me a 10% discount code to give out - BIZCARD2020. Easily one of the best experiences I've had throughout the LS swap.

IMG_20200613_173939.jpg

Hope everyone is healthy and safe!
 

AJ2393

Scrambled in the Head
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Westport
State
MA
So I have to ask a dumb general question on the fuel delivery. With the LS swap did you delete the fuel liquid check valve? If so, how does the vapor from the tank vent to the evap canister? Or did you delete the canister as well? I was under the impression that there has to be a place for the fuel vapor to expand/vent to. Maybe it just vents to atmosphere somewhere. Also, 100% love the homemade resistance jig for the sending unit. That's should be added to the tech forum post here.
 

walkerhoundvm

Just trying to stay upright
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Cave Creek
State
AZ
So I have to ask a dumb general question on the fuel delivery. With the LS swap did you delete the fuel liquid check valve? If so, how does the vapor from the tank vent to the evap canister? Or did you delete the canister as well? I was under the impression that there has to be a place for the fuel vapor to expand/vent to. Maybe it just vents to atmosphere somewhere. Also, 100% love the homemade resistance jig for the sending unit. That's should be added to the tech forum post here.
Good question. The check valves are built in to the 20g tank, so they're still there. In the OEM CJ setup, the canister is purged to the carb by a signal provided by a mix of temperature change (through the CTO valve) and manifold pressure which opens a simple valve in the canister. The default state of the canister is closed, and scavenging only happens with the vacuum signal.

With the LS, it's a signal from the computer to a solenoid valve at the front of the engine. There's a canister, but it's a simple flow-through canister and scavenging happens with the PCM signal to the external solenoid valve.

When I was redoing the LS harness, I was following a guide without thinking for myself. The guide essentially deleted everything outside of what it takes to turn on, off, and a few essential sensors. The canister purge valve was deleted. I figured this out too late, it was going to be a major undertaking to add a single wire back to the harness for that valve. On top of that, I'd have to find some place to put the Chevy canister, which is roughly the size and shape of half a cinder block.

Decided to deal with it "in the future." For now it vents to the CJ OEM canister without being purged. So far, no gas smell accumulating in the garage, but I'm sure it's probably costing me 0.1mpg ;)
 

walkerhoundvm

Just trying to stay upright
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Cave Creek
State
AZ
Long story short, p0171 and p0174 popped up again this morning. Not a fuel delivery problem.

Next step would be smoking the intake, but I'm leaning towards a faulty pcm. I have two on hand, and they're both throwing different codes (p0135 and p0155 on the other, slow O2 sensor warm-up). Time to try a third, or are the codes related somehow?
 
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