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Warn full-floating axle installation

CJ7Pilot

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Marysville
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I wasn't going to do a thread about this, because it's been covered already in various places on the internet, and there aren't that many of these kits available anymore....

Well, it turned out to be a little bit more time consuming than I thought it would be, and I've only done one side! For this post, I don't have any pictures (except for the finished product), so I'll describe a few details, and take more photos when I do the other side.

This all started last year when I was mounting new wheels, and I discovered that my driver side axle flange was loose. I had intended to install one-piece axles and move on, but I saw this used Warn kit for sale here on this forum, for about the same price as a good one-piece axle kit. So I bought it.

Tearing everything apart was easy... the flange was already loose, so I pulled it off the axle, removed the bearing cap bolts, re-installed the flange, and used the brake drum as a slide hammer to pop out the axle.

The brakes were all rusty, and filled with cobwebs, so I decided to replace everything. The cost is pretty reasonable, and now I know it's new.

I cleaned up the backing plate, and bolted it on along with the Warn axle housing, using the original four bolts, and added a fifth bolt to the bottom hole (more on this later... I didn't have the Warn T-bolts that originally came with the kit).

Then I re-assembled the brakes with a new cylinder, new shoes, and a new parts kit. This is always fun, when you haven't done it for a while!

Once the brakes were set up, I decided to test fit the wheel hub to make sure everything was going to fit... well, it didn't. There is an e-brake bar that runs between the brake shoes, underneath the wheel cylinder, and that bar was rubbing on the wheel hub. This is actually addressed in the Warn instruction sheet, but I hadn't caught on to it. Apparently the previous owner had this problem too, because the hub is pretty scuffed/scored where the bar was rubbing.

So, I took the brakes apart again, and followed Warn's instructions about how to bend the bar to clear the hub. You can't bend it too much, because it will hit the wheel cylinder if you do. I fussed with this for quite a while before I got it right, but eventually it worked out.

I did another test fit, and the e-brake bar cleared the hub, but I could still hear some rubbing. It took me a little bit, but I found it. Remember the fifth bolt I mentioned above? Well, the bolt head sits a little closer to center than the other four, and one corner of the hex head was rubbing the back of the hub! The kit originally came with "T-bolts," which are very low profile... but I don't have those. So I put a socket on that bolt head, and turned it so a flat was along the edge of the hub, rather than a point. It doesn't clear by much, but it clears!

Test fit complete, I greased everything up, and installed the nut, lock washer, and lock nut.

The rest went pretty well. The axle slid right in, and the locking hub parts worked as expected.

View attachment 59712

Now I can drive around without fear of my wheel falling off!

I'll do the other side soon, and take some photos. Now that I know what to expect, it should go pretty smoothly... with the added bonus of having to break loose a very tight axle flange! :cheers:
 
Thank goodness I chose a full float kit... a one-piece would not have worked! :eek:

When I took the wheel off, I noticed that the axle had about 1/4" of end-play! It turned out that the bearing shoulder inside the axle housing was chewed away by a spinning race, and no amount of shimming would correct that! Sorry, I forgot to take a photo of the boogered up axle housing....

Anyhow, here's how it went (multiple posts):

View attachment 59788

Beginning, standard rusty axle/brake (with 1/4" end-play).

View attachment 59789

I backed off the flange nut, and set up the old brake drum to use as a slide hammer... no joy! It was just too stuck, and I didn't have time to wait for PB blaster to soak in (rain is coming).

View attachment 59790

I pulled all the brake parts, so I could access the bearing cap nuts, and pull the whole assembly.

View attachment 59791

A few touches with the plasma cutter, and everything came off nicely! As it turns out, I didn't really need to cut the inner race of the bearing, just cutting the cage and removing the rollers provided enough clearance to remove the brake backing plate.

View attachment 59792

Here's the backing plate and spindle bolted in place. Based on previous experience, I oriented the bolt head flats toward the center.

View attachment 59793

Ready for the next step!
 
Next, getting the brake parts to clear the hub:

View attachment 59794

Brakes partially assembled, the e-brake bar that runs under the wheel cylinder needs to be modified to clear the wheel hub.

View attachment 59795

If you leave it straight, it will rub and score the hub...

View attachment 59796

There are instructions on how to bend it.

View attachment 59797

It touches the wheel cylinder slightly, but that's better than rubbing the hub. This side turned out better than the other side... not bad for using a vise and a hammer!

It took a few tries, and plenty of test fitting, but it clears the hub nicely!
 
The home stretch!

View attachment 59798

Bearings greased, hub installed, lock-nuts tightened.

View attachment 59799

Drive axle installed, Warn guts in place.

View attachment 59800

Locking hub assembly in place, brakes adjusted, ready to bleed the cylinder.

View attachment 59801

Finished! The test drive was great! Previously, with one wobbly flange, and the other excessive end-play, my tail was wagging about a 1/2" every time I went around a corner... I can honestly tell a difference in the handling now that everything is tight.

I am very satisfied with this upgrade! :cheers:
 

I found these offered by a hobbyist...........Maybe worth the squeeze if you put a 44 in, or already have one......
 
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