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Adjusting Lifters?

S

ScramFam

Registered User
City
Nowhere
State
OH
Quick question. I'm installing a new set of lifters tomorrow night. Broke it all down tonight. Anyhow, a guy at work sent me an article on how to adjust lifters. I went into the shop manual and it didn't mention adjusting the lifters. Doe is need to be done -- or do I just pop them in? Thanks. Matt.
 
Matt, I've never heard of "adjusting" lifters. Initial valve lash maybe? I assume this is a hydraulic cam/lifters, not solid? If so, only need an intial valve lash adjustment made upon assembly. Solids require adjusting regularly. Also thought the cam & lifters should always be changed as a set? Consult the factory AMC manual (or reprint) to be sure. There are also quite a few AMC engine experts out there to answer questions the manual doesn't address.
 
Yeah, it was lashing. Sounds like that's a yes. I haven't heard that the cam needs to be replaced at the same time. I'm sure that couldn't hurt though -- except in the wallet :)
 
Most flat tappet lifters are splash lubricated, that is oil is splashed on the camshaft by the crank rotation. So when new lifters or cam/lifters are installed, immediately on startup you have to raise the rpm's to about 2000-2500 and keep them there for about 20-30 mins. This allows the cam and lifter friction surfaces to "work harden". If you don't follow this procedure the cam will wear flat and the lifters go concave. Also- very important- use either Royal Purple Break In Oil, or add GM EOS or other zinc additive for camshaft breakin. Newer oils do not have enough protective additives to keep the cam and lifters from self destructing during break in.

If you're not replacing the cam or lifters, and just doing an adjustment, disreguard this procedure.
 
Randyzzz said:
Most flat tappet lifters are splash lubricated, that is oil is splashed on the camshaft by the crank rotation. So when new lifters or cam/lifters are installed, immediately on startup you have to raise the rpm's to about 2000-2500 and keep them there for about 20-30 mins. This allows the cam and lifter friction surfaces to "work harden". If you don't follow this procedure the cam will wear flat and the lifters go concave. Also- very important- use either Royal Purple Break In Oil, or add GM EOS or other zinc additive for camshaft breakin. Newer oils do not have enough protective additives to keep the cam and lifters from self destructing during break in.

If you're not replacing the cam or lifters, and just doing an adjustment, disreguard this procedure.
Click to expand...

Thanks randy. I'm just installing the lifters. Sooooo.... I'll be installing, adjusting, reassembling, revving, enjoying :)
 
I'm all studied up!

Welp, after reading though a half dozen write ups -- I'm all studied up and ready to go. I'm off to get some supplies (intake gasket). I'll start wrenching when everybody at home starts winding down -- 9PM prolly :thumbsup:
 
You didn't say why you're replacing your lifters. If you are having problems with a lifter now, replacing it isn't the answer. You should replace the cam and lifters together. They are not flat on the bottom and have to mate together as new surfaces or the lifter won't rotate. Rotation is what keeps the lifter surface from wearing on any flat (non roller) lifter. if the bottom of a lifter is already worn you are already losing a lobe on the cam and a new lifter will not be reliable. In any case replacing lifters without replacing the cam isn't a good idea. If you will notice engine builders use a lifter tray and keep all lifters and valve train components in order just because of the reason explained above.
 
Hmmmmm.... really? The reason is that I have a lot of lifter noise right now. I really don't want to replace the cam right now. Don't have time / $ right. Maybe we'll just try and adjust and replace the existing ones.
 
Snap!!!

Gotta have a little drama. I started taking the first pair of rockers off and I SNAPPED the bridge. I forgot that I needed to loosen them a bit at a time on each side until they're loose. Soooo... looks like I need a bridge. Going to hopefully score one from NAPA tomorrow.

More News...
Welp, because I'm not replacing the cam, sounds like replacing the lifters is a bad idea -- is there consensus on that? So, I'm going to try and dry out the lifters I've been soaking and return them. Then I'm going to take a shot at readjusting the rockers / valves to try and quiet them down a bit. Any other ideas. I'm heading out of town on Tuesday for work. No real hurry to get it done. I'm guessing I'll be waiting for the part anyway. More news tomorrow.
 
The Summit 8600 cam is pretty inexpensive and a good choice. You might want to get one and just get this thing done.
 
John N said:
The Summit 8600 cam is pretty inexpensive and a good choice. You might want to get one and just get this thing done.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the recommendation. I think I'm going to just put it together check the valve adjustments. I'm out of town a lot before our Sliver Lake trip. Want to make sure I'm up and running well before then.
 
Is it my poor memory or not but isn't the AMC valvetrain non-adjustable unless you put in adjustable pushrods?
 
That's what I was wondering. No word on adjusting them in the shop manual -- unless I missed it.
 
Check for worn parts, or bent pushrods while you're in there.
 
Yes...AMC valvetrain is non-adjustable... Just assemble, tighten down, and go. There are apparently different length push rods that can be installed......but I have not done it. I was always told that if there was excess valve clearance, it was due to worn parts (either cam, lifter, or push rods). This is an indication of needing some major work and not to mess with it till it "goes" or you have the money/time to repair it.

As far a bridges go, do you have the aluminum one piece or the steel 3 piece bridge/pivot set? I would assume (given the broken bridge) that it is the aluminum one piece set. I have extras of those if you want them (I am just going to toss them out). Let me know...
 
Just a couple of thoughts. Did you check to make shure there is oil flow through all the push rods. AMCs are known for plugging them. You may want to run some Reslone through your engine to clean it up a little. I have been fortunate enopugh for this to cure noisey valve trains several times. It is also common for a bridge to wear or break and be mistaken for a lifter noise when actually a rocker chatter :banghead: :confused:
 
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