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Needing direction...

I knew what you meant, I was just goofing around. My goal is to not mess around on getting this done... Maybe July 1. That might be a little ambitious though.

I just talked to the previous owner of both my CJ8 and the CJ7 that I have agreed to buy the 258 and 5-speed transmission out of. He says that engine probably has less than 5000 miles on it. If that's true...:bacon:

He claimed it always had some fouling of the spark plugs though. I'm hoping that was addressed when the OEM carb was installed.
 
cattleman1977 said:
He claimed it always had some fouling of the spark plugs though. I'm hoping that was addressed when the OEM carb was installed.
Click to expand...

The OEM carbs on the early 80s CJs don't have a lot of fans..... There are some folks that have figured them out, and when well maintained, seem to work ok.... "BBD two-barrel carbs found on the inline-six engines were sputtering wonders at angles. And don't get us started about the electronic-feedback Carter BBD carbs"

If the OEM carb he as is the non-feedback Carter, it might be ok. Most guys go motorcraft 2100 and don't look back.

That YJ motor craigslist looks like a steal if its got good compression and all the FI goodies. If you don't buy it (you get first shot for sure), I might and use it to upgrade to FI next winter.

My 2 cents
 
tower210-
If you are interested in that engine go for it. I am pretty well set on the 258.

I stopped and looked at the engine that is in the CJ7 this morning. I know both the guy that put the engine in originally and the guy that owns it now really well. I think it is safe to say that this engine easily has under 10,000 miles on it. The current owner said that once he put the new carburetor on the engine ran perfectly. I am going to go back sometime soon with a battery and fire it up to see how it runs. I think I will reassemble my own engine and set it aside for now and install the second 4.2 L. He is willing to sell me everything between the radiator and the transfer case for $200. This includes the CJ seven wiring harness in the engine compartment.

Here are some pics:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1430580009.539238.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1430580035.672976.jpg

It seems like I have read on this forum that a CJ7 harness can be made to work in a CJ8?

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1430580097.245116.jpg

Here is a picture of the carburetor. I don't have a clue what it is, whether OEM or other.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1430580140.701713.jpg

I can also buy this set of four spoked wheels. Anybody know if they are OEM or aftermarket?

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1430580181.583849.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1430580191.571428.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1430580204.802803.jpg

I am feeling pretty comfortable that between these two engines I can make a great power plant.
 
Waiting for the seller to respond on that one.....

Are those warn lockouts on that?


 
$200 is a "no brainer". Is it out yet?

I don't mean to scare you on the apart motor it's just that I've done a few and never liked straightening out someone else's mess. That motor is near the end of it's workable machining tolerances and until you take it to the machine shop and get everything measured you have no idea where you stand on tolerances. I know what's involved in properly machining an engine so when I see .030 over bores, .010 undersized cranks, worn round cam journals and you haven't even laid a micrometer on it yet, I would turn my heel and walk away from the deal. Put your time, money and considerably less effort into the red Jeep motor which sounds like a better deal.
 
I agree with surfjeepzx. $200 for a recently rebuilt engine and trans that is basicly a direct swap for what you have is a no brainer. The CJ-7 harness is the same as a CJ-8 with slight differences if they are different years (computer controlled carb and emission stuff on '83+).

Those wheels are not OEM.
 
I agree^^^

He told me to take it and go ahead and yank it out whenever I felt like it. My shop is only a couple miles away so I may do that but it'll probably be a few weeks before I get a chance to.

The red Jeep is an 85 so it sounds like the harness will be basically the same as my 83???

Another plus is the fact that I get to save some money on the drivetrain and put it towards bodywork and paint.

What about the carb? Can anybody tell me what it is?
 
What transmission is in there or did I miss it? And what transmission do you have currently?
 
1. Is the Holly a decent carb?(short term at least) (at some point I think I would like to upgrade to the Mopar EFI but until then...)

2. Should I be running a zinc additive once I get the new engine in?

3. I currently have a T1 76. It is very sloppy (mostly in the shift rails and in the tower I think) Needs going through. The transmission I am buying is a five speed. (If there is more than one I'm not sure which it is.)

I know some on here have expressed they don't like the five speed. I'm not sure which I'm going to go with however, as I wish my four-speed had a lower first gear. Would the five-speed solve this?

The good thing is is I will be able to drive the red Jeep with motor and five speed transmission before I pull it and I will be able to see which transmission I prefer.
 
As far as engine oil - I've been running the Shell Rotella T5 synthetic. I got that recommendation from a trusted CJ owner on another forum.

The primary gears on the T176 and the T5 do not differ significantly - unless you actually have a T177 (check the code on the side), in which case the T177 will have a pretty significant lower first gear - which is better for heavier CJs and bigger tires.

Personally, I would stick with the T176/177 and rebuild. You can buy a top-end rebuild kit, as well as a whole transmission rebuild kit. The rebuild takes about a day as long as you have access to a press to get the old bearings out. A couple dowels you can pick up at home depot for a few bucks, and a feeler gauge. There are very good write-ups online for the rebuild, I did mine on my kitchen counter much to Emily's dismay.
 
I have ran the codes on my transmission and it is a T1 76. I assume the T1 77 is a variant of a four speed. Or did I misunderstand you and the T177 is a five speed?

I am pretty sure that I would be sleeping in my jeep if I rebuilt the transmission in the house… I drag enough manure/dirt/grease/grain dust in as it is.
 
T4 and t5 have 4 to 1 first gear
T176 has 3.5 to 1 first (4 speed)
T177 has 3.8 to 1 first ( 4 speed)
 
walkerhoundvm said:
As far as engine oil - I've been running the Shell Rotella T5 synthetic. I got that recommendation from a trusted CJ owner on another forum.
Click to expand...
Even the Rotella doesn't have enough zinc content anymore. They were the last one to lower the zinc level.

cattleman1977 said:
2. Should I be running a zinc additive once I get the new engine in?
Click to expand...

Yes, if you run a traditional flat tappet lifter/camshaft, then you should always add the small bottle of ZDDP(zinc) additive to every oil change.
 
jims chop shop said:
T4 and t5 have 4 to 1 first gear
T176 has 3.5 to 1 first (4 speed)
T177 has 3.8 to 1 first ( 4 speed)
Click to expand...

This is correct, I was incorrect to say T176 and T5 did not differ very much in first - so maybe the T5 would be easier on your first gear? But weighted against the weakness of the T5 with larger vehicles and bigger tires.

If you haven't already, this is a good site to play around with RPMs and gear ratios, etc. http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
 
I recomend Amsoil "Z Rod" for all non roller lifter engines. Quite a few parts stores are selling it now if you don't have a local dealer, or I can have it shipped directly to you at my wholesale cost. Brad Penn also makes a zinc rich oil, but I prefer the extended life of the amsoil. :wave:
 
Run the T176. How often do you NEED overdrive? I have a T5 equipped CJ-7 and it hasn't been in 5th gear in a couple years. I have a T177 to go in WHEN (not if) the T5 croaks.

Spankrj's has eaten a few T5's in his Scrambler. They seem to be like factory 2 piece axles; they work for a few people here and there, but for most people they suck.

If you're gonna run 33's you'll need to regear anyway, and if you get the proper gear ratio in your axles that little difference in 1st gear isn't going to amount to much. Those 33's will likely kill a T5 REAL fast too.
 
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