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1983 Scrambler "STUMP JUMPER". Frame off, 5.3 Conversion.

Installed the new Hood Cowl finally. This is the one job I didn't want to do but it's done now.
 

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What style and brand of spot weld cutter did you use? Even using oil I haven't found one that I've been completely happy with!
 
JeepScrambler said:
What style and brand of spot weld cutter did you use? Even using oil I haven't found one that I've been completely happy with!
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The Bought a 3/8 set from Eastwood and it came with 3 cutters. I put a new cutter on when I started this job and it would need to be changed now. You need to wire brush and clean the area the best you can because rust will really shorten the life of the spot weld cutter.
 
For those who are interested in more exact location of motor mounts. In my searches I could never find this. It might not be right but it is what seems to fit my build the best. I do not plan on using any body lift but a 1" lift would work fine with this mount location.
 

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After having a very informative conversation with fellow member Randyzzz I am rethinking my transfer case choice. Seems the NP 241C (passenger side offset)TC bolts straight to the 4L60E and moves the front drive shaft out another 2 inches. This could work out to a much easier solution to the front drive shaft clearance problem. I want to get this right and even though I have the expensive Adapter for the D300 TC it might be better in the long run to have a simple straight drive shaft with no clearance problems.
 
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I had hoped to have the frame sandblasted by now but I want to find a NP241C transfer case and see how it mounts up in hopes of having a better drive shaft set up.
 
How much more length is there with the NP241 compared to the dana 300?

I thought about going that route, but with the lift I have. And the 8" of droop, the cv is right at bind at full droop. I couldn't afford to loose any driveshaft length.
 
jbeemer said:
How much more length is there with the NP241 compared to the dana 300?

I thought about going that route, but with the lift I have. And the 8" of droop, the cv is right at bind at full droop. I couldn't afford to loose any driveshaft length.
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That's what I'm not sure of. I know there is a kit to shorten a little.
 
jbeemer said:
How much more length is there with the NP241 compared to the dana 300?

I thought about going that route, but with the lift I have. And the 8" of droop, the cv is right at bind at full droop. I couldn't afford to loose any driveshaft length.
Click to expand...

I had the same problem with my Scout years ago and solved that by tilting the rear differential up about 8-10 degrees.
 
Good talking to you yesterday, Dennis! I know I've been AWOL here for awhile, life has been challenging lately. Nothing that can't be overcome. Your build looks great, I'll be following this. Anyways...after our conversation I figured I better check my notes. The 241C is a little over an inch wider that the D300 at 9.56 inches. The D300 is about 8.5 inches. So you're gaining an inch, hopefully that is enough. My memory let me down, could have sworn it was 2". If that will work for you, JBConversions makes a rear slip yoke kit for the 241C that's really short.
http://www.jbconversions.com/products/sye/np241c_short_sye.php
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Randyzzz said:
Good talking to you yesterday, Dennis! I know I've been AWOL here for awhile, life has been challenging lately. Nothing that can't be overcome. Your build looks great, I'll be following this. Anyways...after our conversation I figured I better check my notes. The 241C is a little over an inch wider that the D300 at 9.56 inches. The D300 is about 8.5 inches. So you're gaining an inch, hopefully that is enough. If that will work for you, JBConversions makes a rear slip yoke kit for the 241C that's really short.
http://www.jbconversions.com/products/sye/np241c_short_sye.php
installed-1.jpg
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For those of us who are curious....what did these come in?
 
John N said:
For those of us who are curious....what did these come in?
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241C with a passenger drop came in K5Blazers and K1500 Suburbans 88-90, IIRC. Those were the years when the pickup had changed to the new body style but the Blazers and Suburbans still retained the old body style. While somewhat rare in scrap yards, it appears that the passenger drop 241c is cheaper than the drivers drop at many rebuilders.

Sorry about the initial misinformation indicating an additional 2" clearance- it's only 1". But, the low range is 2.72, and it's chain driven so it shifts like butter.
 
Even 1 inch is a big advantage as we all know already. I'm also going with a 2 1/2 inch lift which I should have Tuesday and then I can mock it all up and check again. I'll certainly take pictures and report back. I'm also going to do what I can to check it under full compression and order whatever bump stop I might need to install. The JB conversion kit at about 360.00 is probably going to be needed also. Another advantage to the 241C is it comes with electric shift in some cars which is another luxury that I am looking at. It ain't cheap trying to be cool.
And Randy it was my pleasure talking to you yesterday and I hope you don't mind me calling for more advice.
We can do more gun talking next time.
 
Well I just ordered a rebuilt NP 241C transfer case. It's a bit of a gamble but I'm hoping the 1 inch of more offset is going to solve the drive shaft clearance issue. Besides I think this is a much smoother shifting TC. Hurry up and wait again. So I may be having a Advanced adapters setup for sale soon. How do you say Credit card debt? I'm having to pay my credit card off every week just to keep up. LOL

I think its the 243C that comes with electric shift and not the 241C.
 
You can keep the Dana 300, no problem. Offset the engine more toward the driver side, off center. Since you are lifting it, the front driveshaft will clear:twocents:

I have a 350 with a 700R4/4L60, and a Dana 300. With the engine offset to the driver side, a stock OD front drive shaft will clear.

If you use wider then stock axles, you have more room.
 
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spankrjs said:
You can keep the Dana 300, no problem. Offset the engine more toward the driver side, off center. Since you are lifting it, the front driveshaft will clear:twocents:

I have a 350 with a 700R4/4L60, and a Dana 300. With the engine offset to the driver side, a stock OD front drive shaft will clear.

If you use wider then stock axles, you have more room.
Click to expand...

I have it offset 1'' already to the driver side and it's still hitting the trans pan. This 1 more inch and the lift kit should do it. It's been an expensive inch. How much is another inch worth? :)
 
I made a couple adjustment to the mounts and now have the engine off center about 1 1/4 inches and the drive shaft barely clears the pan. "BUT", what if you hit a pot hole, a boulder, rock or a steep embankment and you compress the suspension 4 or 5 inches and it moves sideways even 1/2 and inch. Disaster is what happens and I'm just not willing to take that chance. Sorry but good enough has never been enough for me. As I say in my signature, "cheap is not always cheaper".

I could get some more relief at the pan by simply taking a ball peen hammer and tapping some relief into the oil pan. This would be easy and cheap but it still doesn't address the suspension compression issue. I would rather be safe than sorry.

Another option would be to clock the 300 transfer case a few more degrees by re-drilling the adapters but I think I'll be happier with the 241C TC.

Guy's I could use a little moral support about right now so if you are reading this thread how about just saying hello or telling me what you think.
 
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Rotating the case is what we have done as in my earlier post. Unproven yet but we're confident.
 
I am usually more of a lurker than a poster since my skills are very limited but I'm at least good for a " hello!"

Hang in there. I really enjoy reading these threads and seeing what you guys with skill and knowledge can do with our jeeps........keeps me motivated to learn and try to improve mine. I think yours is looking great. If your stuck on something just take a break. I'm sure some other knowledgeable folks on here will chime in and you guys will get it figured out soon. :cheers:
 
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