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‘82 Engine Swap & Restification

ag4ever

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I'd be more concerned with driveline vibrations as the drive shaft spins at much higher rpm than the axles. For this rig, it will be about 5x faster.

You did bring up a good point though.
 

ag4ever

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Keep telling myself, “slow and steady wins the race.”

Got the last frame plate welded on Saturday, was doing some grinding on it till about 10 am, got everything put away so I could meet my mother for some legal paperwork, and the garage door fell off the track. Grrr. Had to leave it all catty wampus while I took care of the paperwork. Got back, disassembled the door, and reassembled it (with wonderful help from my better half!).

I was running a Liftmaster 8500 jackshaft opener, while I love the concept, it just does not work that well, especially on a 16’ wide insulated door. Oh well, now I need to put a new operator on the door.

But, I got the transfer case cleaned up.

7AC79FF9-9347-44A8-990C-96BF04448AB1.jpeg

Just a bit more cleaning, then reassembly.

Also been working on the 4.0 XJ harness and depinning the PCM connector. Was doing well till my tool started wearing down.

F7D94596-654D-4DAF-9986-07AAD50B9DD8.jpeg

No problem, ordered a bunch more from TE Connectivity.

7F5DB5EE-7EE5-40CD-83CD-7AA51AAF05F9.jpeg

At $1 each, I figured buying a lifetime supply was a good value, besides I needed to get my money’s worth on the flat rate shipping.
 

ag4ever

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Picked up one of the 4 windows I plan to put in the postal top. Measures 25.5” wide x 18” tall. The stock front door window is 17.25” tall. Stock world cab window is about 20.125” tall (including the seal). I would like it to be closer to 20” tall, but have not found a vehicle with a closer window size. Stock world cab window is 53” long on the top and 55” long at the bottom (trapezoid shape).

Unfortunately the vehicle this comes from only has one this size on them, and only if equipped with the barn doors, not sliding door. To make it even harder to get a set they came as tilt-out solex (green) tint or privacy (dark bronze) tint and either chrome trim or black trim (4 variations), and fixed window in solex or privacy as well as no windows. So 7 variations for the barn doors plus the variations for the sliding doors. Makes finding a set of 4 difficult. Guess I’ll be collecting them as I find them. Good thing is they were made from the early 70’s to mid 90’s.

B7149365-1D96-4FF7-8842-A9C83B302B65.jpeg
 

CJ7Pilot

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So, are you going to put two of these on each side of the cab, in lieu of one long window?

If so, are you installing the tilt-out hardware? That would be pretty cool!
 

ag4ever

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So, are you going to put two of these on each side of the cab, in lieu of one long window?

If so, are you installing the tilt-out hardware? That would be pretty cool!

That is the plan, reminiscent of a Sanyang Korando.

672B190B-C8AC-405B-AFAA-BCFFD80B7EAF.jpeg

The plan is to graft in the window and frame, hardware and all. Preserving the factory tilt out hardware.

My parents had a ‘75 then an ‘87 Dodge Maxiwagon that had similar windows, and while they did not have as much airflow as sliders or roll down windows, they could remain open in the rain. (We made many trips from Houston to Platteville, CO in those vans.)

I’d go with dodge windows, but they are square 18” x 18”. It would take 3 on each side. I think that would start to look like a school bus, not that it would be bad, just not the look I’m going for. The rectangle van windows look to be around 40” x 18”. Just not long enough to fill the real estate on the sides.

Saw a late ‘70s - early ‘80s VW Microbus that had the windows pulled. The rough opening looked to be about 16” tall x 43” wide. Approximate dimension, I forgot to bring a tape measure with me on my junkyard crawl. Those would look strange as they would be shorter than the door windows.

Also saw 2 AMC Gremlins. One was a floor shift, the other was column shift. Really was hoping to find a factory floor shifter assembly like in the postals, but the interiors were stripped out. Oh well.
 

ag4ever

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The Chevrolet G10, G20, and G30 as well as the GMC Vandura all had the 60/40 barn door option for the side door, meaning the one door window was wider than the others. Just a strange anomaly that works out for this build.
 

ag4ever

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Grabbed another door with glass and a piece of glass without a door on my junkyard crawl this morning. I also remembered to bring a tape measure to document various other window sizes.

Late 90's GM van:

20190717_095226.jpg

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20190717_095248.jpg20190717_095320.jpg20190717_095300.jpg
 
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ag4ever

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Same late 90's GM van, left pair door:

20190717_095354.jpg

20190717_095357.jpg
 

ag4ever

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Early 90's GM van, rear door:

20190717_102737.jpg

20190717_102740.jpg

Same van, left pair side door:

20190717_102758.jpg

20190717_102801.jpg
 

ag4ever

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Mid 80's dodge van, rear windows:

20190717_102935.jpg

20190717_103017.jpg

20190717_103024.jpg

Side windows:

20190717_103046.jpg

20190717_103055.jpg

20190717_103106.jpg

A set of 4 windows can be harvested from one van as all barn door windows are the same size. These windows also use a similar hinge to the 80's GM vans.
 

ag4ever

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Mid 70's Dodge van:

20190717_103150.jpg

20190717_103204.jpg

20190717_103216.jpg

20190717_103222.jpg

20190717_103227.jpg

Looks like 6 can be harvested from a single van. These use a cool thru glass mount hinge that looks similar (but not the same) as the stock overlander vent window. This hardware on a custom piece of flat tempered glass would make a neat window setup.
 

ag4ever

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Another chevy van window, driver side double window:

20190725_131215.jpg

20190725_131211.jpg

Sorry bout the finger in the photos, at least I was consistent.
 

ag4ever

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I was able to score 2 doors at this wrecking yard, so now I have:

4 door shells
2 clear glass with stainless trim
3 clear glass with black trim (1 has window tint applied)

5 sets of window hardware

4 bear claws that I might use to make a bumper mounted tire carrier

CA6F0A88-9D2B-42F2-B29E-7B4865A964EF.jpeg

Gotta get the angle grinder out to chop off the tops of the doors I got today.

Unfortunately I have not had much time to work on this, couple weeks ago the ceiling in my Son’s room fell in due to a leaking condensate line from one of the ac units. Anybody familiar with gulf coast humidity will know how much condensate water an ac unit can produce. I once built a school where the sewer was not completed, we had to pump the sewer every 2 days with an 18 wheeler tanker truck just to collect the condensate from all the air handlers. So, I guess I should get back to being a tape & floater. :wave:
 

ag4ever

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Project is still stalled, just not enough time and way too hot when I do have a little. (Hopefully the room rebuild will be done this week)

I was able to source another transfer case. (Just happened to have a meeting on that side of town.) It is a NP241D from a ‘91 Dodge RamCharger. This case also has the 23 spline input, but comes with the SYE from the factory. Also has a mechanical speedo, but dodge uses a mechanical to electric sensor for the electronic speedo. They also use a vacuum switch on the case to activate the dash light and the front axle disconnect. (Not sure what the plan for this will be.)

5D8AD6E2-F2D3-4774-B962-D0C016CD5CE1.jpeg

B29DD72B-0E40-4C05-8CCC-B15EF39058B2.jpeg

38058D51-8194-45C8-8774-A7D9D641E882.jpeg

I was able to score it for a couple Benjamins. Figured for that price it would be good to have just in case. (More on that “in case” to follow.)
 

ag4ever

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So, this is the reason I picked up a spare TC.

15FE838A-15D0-41D2-B9AF-F0A98DE0B52E.jpeg

934D3B63-C519-4DA4-BCA8-7C228C0D9DF1.jpeg

On the rear housing, by the oil pump pickup, there is a small crack. Not sure if this is a flaw in the casting and was present from day 1, or if it was developed during the acquisition of some of what I call Hanger Rash. I have a feeling it was dropped during shipping and that cracked the case. But regardless of the cause, I’m not sure I am comfortable running it as is.

My options are:

1. Use the new case

2. Use the rear housing half from the new case

3. Find a replacement rear case (have not found a replacement passenger drop version)

4. Get this one welded.

I think I will try option 4, then use 1 or 2 as a fall back option. I doubt option 3 would be easy, and I am more likely to find another complete case than just the rear half.

Thoughts?
 

FLCJ8

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So, this is the reason I picked up a spare TC.

View attachment 75065

View attachment 75066

On the rear housing, by the oil pump pickup, there is a small crack. Not sure if this is a flaw in the casting and was present from day 1, or if it was developed during the acquisition of some of what I call Hanger Rash. I have a feeling it was dropped during shipping and that cracked the case. But regardless of the cause, I’m not sure I am comfortable running it as is.

My options are:

1. Use the new case

2. Use the rear housing half from the new case

3. Find a replacement rear case (have not found a replacement passenger drop version)

4. Get this one welded.

I think I will try option 4, then use 1 or 2 as a fall back option. I doubt option 3 would be easy, and I am more likely to find another complete case than just the rear half.

Thoughts?
I totally agree on option #4.
I've seen several repairs on much worse damage than that hold up to much greater stress than that will ever see. :twocents:
 

sdsupilot

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Does the crack appear to go through the bolt hole? I would agree with welding it and using it. On the computer screen it almost looks more like a casting flaw than a crack. Hard to tell depth though.
 

ag4ever

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I had not noticed until really looking at the photo, but the crack is on both sides of the hole. The hole is also oval shaped. I would say it was dropped at some point as there is a smooshed area on that ear. (After looking at the photo closer I took a bright flashlight to really inspect the area and saw those issues.)

I’ve reached out to a local aluminum welder, hopefully they can fix it. Fingers crossed.

If it was on the top, or anywhere but at the pump pickup I would not be too concerned. But being at this point worries me that it will become a fluid leak.
 

ag4ever

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No update on work, just been too hot recently to be motivated. Also, bow season started 2 weeks ago in Texas, so I have been concentrating on chasing a buck for the last 2 weekends. Once Rifle season starts, my interest in deer generally diminishes.

But I have collected more parts. Just got these today:

20191007_105357.jpg

Rather shocked they made it half way round the earth with how they were packed, but they arrived intact. Now I need to make patterns and send them off to see if they can be reproduced. Fingers crossed.

(Darn auto correct, seems to be to aggressive at times.)
 
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tower210

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No update on work, just been too hot recently to be motivated. Also, bow season started 2 weeks ago in Texas, so I have been concentrating on chasing a buck for the last 2 weekends. Once Rifle season starts, my interest in deer generally diminishes.

But I have collected more parts. Just got these today:

View attachment 76509

Rather shocked they made it half way round the earth with how they were packed, but they arrived intact. Now I need to make patterns and send them off to see if they can be reproduced. Fingers crossed.

(Darn auto correct, seems to be to aggressive at times.)
What are they?
 
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