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1983 Jeep Scrambler issues

Scramblerbert

Member
City
Schenectady
State
NY
O.K. Will look for a tag but probably not there. Possibly a casting number on cylinder heads if I pull covers? Just thinking ahead on project. Motor starts right up and runs strong but want to check everything out. I drove it up on the car trailer when we bought it. With new power steering hoses and a working clutch assembly we can move it around. guy must have topped off fluids to get it moving for us to load it up. Brake lines are probably shot too as no brakes. Do not know weather to just buy a new frame for it or possibly find a good used one. That will be later this year. O.K. Appreciate all your help and will find more this weekend.
 

Scramblerbert

Member
City
Schenectady
State
NY
Hi, went to the jeep today. High pressure hose fit like a glove from NAPA. I now need to purchase the adapter to connect it to the steering pump. I pulled the one out of the pump that is the newer o ring style. Should I just buy the one that replaces the o ring one or go with an adapter with o ring on one end and inverted flare on the other. The return line is another story. It came in but the 90 degree bend is much taller and will not screw into the box. I shortened it and re flared it but I do not like the way it installed. It only screws in a few threads and believe it will leak when I test it. Is there a inverted flare close 90 fitting with a barb I can buy? And as a new member can I post a photo of the fitting I pulled from the rear of the pump to get the proper one I need. Thanks.
 

Scramblerbert

Member
City
Schenectady
State
NY
Hi Here is the fitting I pulled from the rear of the power steering pump. It is for an O ring style hose. I need one for a flare hose end. Do I just replace this with the flare style end that screws into the back of the resevoir or do I get the adapter from O ring to flare ? Also the return hose I purchased and installed, the 90 degree bend is too tall and hits the radiator support. So I cut the end back and re flared it. It just fits but only screws in about 5 threads and does not look right. Is there a tight 90 inverted flare with a barb I can buy to correct this issue? Thanks.
 

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Randyzzz

Blown Budget
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
Pure Choice Mororsports sells a banjo fitting with a 6an thread. That is about as tight as you can get. But I’m sure there’s a premise return line available that will fit. It’s low pressure so one off another vehicle might do the trick- just cut and clamp.
 

Scramblerbert

Member
City
Schenectady
State
NY
Hi, the piece to fix the high pressure steering box fitting with the flare fitting came in . Also bought a short swivel fitting for the return line to complete that issue. With some luck it will be leak tight tomorrow. If this happens on to the clutch system. I think I will replace the slave cylinder pipes feeding it and a new master cylinder for it. Best to pull all off to match it up with replacement parts in case they had to be modified with the V-8 engine change. Appreciate al the help on the forum.
 

Scramblerbert

Member
City
Schenectady
State
NY
Hi All. Got success today. Using the 90 degree swivel fitting they sell on line worked the nuts. Had just enough room to install the fitting in the box then slip on the rubber hose and used a band clamp for fuel injection lines. Barley misses the bottom of the radiator but works well. Had a little bobble with installing the pressure line into the back of the steering box with the new flare fitting. The fitting went in with no trouble but trying to screw in the end of the pressure hose into it had a slight clearance issue. The bracket that holds the pump was in the way and was causing the line to be back about 1 inch away from the fitting so I took my tubing bender and kicked the steel line a bit for clearance to not rub anything and fit nicely into the pump. Filled the system up and now have a leak less system. Pulled the clutch slave, master cylinder and line off. Line was rusty and was spliced repaired somewhere along the line so will replace that. I will check out the slave and master cylinder to see if they can be rebuilt and if I can get parts for them otherwise will have to buy a new ones. O.K. Enough stimulation for now!! Many thanks to the forum again. Will post as I progress on clutch system.
 

Scramblerbert

Member
City
Schenectady
State
NY
Hi, got a chance today and pulled the slave cylinder and Master cylinder apart. Both were stuck but used a grease fitting and pumped grease in them. They both popped out. Bores look great so I will hone them. Now I would like to rebuild them as being told new replacement ones are not the best.
I found numbers on both. Clutch master cylinder is Aluminum small bore resevoir Girling number is 74660558 BSI. (hard to read this).There is no bore size measurement on the outside as site states. Measured the bore at .810 On Pegasus site they show a rebuild kit for this. Assume this will work. The slave cylinder has numbers on side. Number on one side is 74660580 cast into the side. The other side has Q146. This is a Girling cast iron unit. The bore measures .872 Cannot find rebuild kit for this. I believe these are the ones I put on the Jeep around 1990 when I bought it from original owner. Now comes the rub. With the v-8 304 in there now replacing the GM 4 cylinder and assuming the original transmission is the same one, are there going to be problems with the v-8 engine as far as shifting and throw in there? Is the clutch pressure plate, disk throw out bearing sand fork set up same? So will the slave and master cylinder from the 4 cylinder setup work properly with correct throw I have now or do I need to replace these with the v-8 ones? Thanks.
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
Member
City
OKC
State
OK
The engine shouldn't make a difference on how the transmission shifts. My 8 came with the I4 and a hydro clutch from the factory. It was later swapped to an I6 to the original SR4 and hydraulic clutch. The hydraulic clutch is mounted on the bell housing, so the engine in front of that doesn't really affect its travel. That worked fine for years until I did my GM swap.

My clutch and master cylinder went out or started leaking and I replaced both of them with off the shelf parts. Worked fine for me and was easier than rebuilding.

If you do not have power brakes I would strongly suggest converting manual to power brakes vs rebuilding what is there.
 

Scramblerbert

Member
City
Schenectady
State
NY
Thanks. Did not know if the motor swap to V8 entailed any change to the clutch assembly. And you saved me from buying wrong parts for non power brakes rehab then finding out everything will need to be changed for power . Thank you very much. Ordered the steel and rubber line for the clutch hydraulic system. Called around for rebuilding kits for the Girling slave and master cylinder. Pegasus has nothing in the size I need .They referred me to another supplier. Called their tech line and guy was crunchy about it. Told me to call back later. Any other sources for Girling parts?
 

Scramblerbert

Member
City
Schenectady
State
NY
Just a note. Found the Girling company site in the UK. Shot them an email asking for info on the hydraulic components I have for possibly a rebuild kit number and availability thru a state side distributor. Will post if I get an answer.
 

Belizeit

CJ-8 Member
Gold Member
City
River Ridge
State
La
Seems like I got a rebuild kit from napa years ago. Worked well. 2nd time not so much and was easier to go new the next time.
 

Scramblerbert

Member
City
Schenectady
State
NY
Yes tried local NAPA store. Always there. No more listing and just new complete units but not the quality ones.
 

Scramblerbert

Member
City
Schenectady
State
NY
Hi, Just got word I can get the slave cylinder rebuild kit SP 7334. This is for the GM Iron Duke 4 cylinder setup. Looking for the SP-5650 rebuild kit for the Master cylinder. So far no good.
 

Scramblerbert

Member
City
Schenectady
State
NY
Hi Just received I guess the last Girling slave cylinder rebuild kit on the face of the earth so I can go ahead and rebuild the slave cylinder. But the clutch master cylinder kit SP 5650 is nowhere to be found. Looked everywhere. I have written Girling in the UK twice but guess they do not answer emails. Very disappointed in them for this. So I can buy new ones all over the place but the cylinder is a .750 inch bore not the .805 bore I have. Will the smaller bore effect the clutch pressure or travel causing problems as the slave cylinder bore is .870 inches? Thanks for any help.
 

Scramblerbert

Member
City
Schenectady
State
NY
Striking out on finding a rebuilding kit for the Girling Clutch Master cylinder. Still a few sources and may get lucky. Girling in the UK will not answer my e-mails ( sent 2) so they are essentially useless for help.
 

Scramblerbert

Member
City
Schenectady
State
NY
HI, Thanks for the reply. I was told by a vendor here in the states I need kit SP 5650 for the Clutch Master cylinder rebuilding kit. He said he no longer have them. Found another vendor here in the states that say their kit INV-371-187 is the correct one and again they do not have any. They sent me to another vendor here in the states wrote him yesterday and awaiting an answer from them. I have the .875 bore clutch master cylinder and the numbers on the side of the cylinder do not show up anywhere. I am confused that no where does this number show up? Your kit looks close but do not know if anything is missing I need. I will contact you if I strike out. Guess Girling is not interested in customer service. Will be the last time dealing with their products if I can help it. Thanks.
 
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