304 & 999 Scrambler Build

[Kim Dawson]

Installed the FI system with the distributor with electronics. I've been figuring out the wiring and connecting things up. I still have a few connections to make and a few to eliminate. I'm sure many of you have already done this and can steering me in the right direction. On the distributor I need a 12 V ign wire and a wire from the tach. Can I run a wire from the I terminal on the starter solenoid or is there a better place to get it from? The connector that used to go to the electronic control unit has a red w/t wire and a blue wire . . . what do I do with those? The two red wire connector that used to go to a sending unit by the oil pressure sending unit is left over . . . what do I do with that? Is there a tach wire already in the engine harness? The orange an green wires that used to go to the carb . . . what is that relay for that they come from? And finally, where should I pick up vacuum for the brake booster? When you get a FI kit, it doesn't come with instructions on what to do with your left over wiring . . . probably because the kit fits so many different years/models. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[ag4ever]

I used the idle speed solenoid power feed to power by EFI. This is an ignition switched wire that is located at the carb. This wire is fed by the same circuit as the cigarette lighter. So, if the fuse for that blows you don’t have power to the EFI, ask me how I discovered that.

Holley recommends using power away from the alternator, ignition coil, and starter. These can all create noise that will affect the performance of the computer.

 

[Kim Dawson]

Got this overflow bottle, made by Dorman, and it fit nicely on the right side. Not bad for 12 bucks. My brake lines, meant for no booster, were interfering with the oem one. I think I have all the engine wiring sorted out.

 

[Kim Dawson]

Mounted the side rails so I'd know where to mount the storage boxes. Went to Ace and found some low round head SS screws to mount the boards for about 20 bucks . . . not the star type but this isn't going to the Pebble Beach Concours. Drilled the holes in the boxes to use the tail gate support bracket bolts. I designed the boxes to fit with the boards and still be even with the wheel wells. The vertical wood support came out even with the edge of the box. Picked up some more white paint today so when I paint the hood and windshield I can also paint the boxes. My neighbor came over and used his tool to change the ends on the plug wires to fit the GM distributor. Now the engine compartment wiring is complete. I think I like the matching SS screws even better than the two styles that AMC used.

 

[designerRob]

Nice job on the boxes. And the boards turned out awesome. They really stand out against the white paint. 👍

 

[bigwalton]

Those look great.

 

[Chamba]

You've sure got a lot of work benches Kim. You're an inspiration.

 

[gpassida]

Those storage boxes are amazing! Great Job!

 

[Kim Dawson]

The carpet came today. Fitted it so I could get the seats installed. The carpet kit on Ebay shows black but you can message the seller and get a picture of a bunch of blues or reds or what ever color you are looking for and they will make up the carpet in the color you choose at the same price. The molded cut pile carpet fits very well.

 

[Kim Dawson]

Been prepping the windshield frame and finally got it ready. Painted it and the storage boxes this evening. Because the other Scrambler body is taking up my under-cover painting area, I put up an EZ-Pop-Up tent to keep the trees from decorating my paint work. I need to get the hood ready for paint next.

 

[Kim Dawson]

Got the windshield assembly ready to install when someone is here to help with it. I has a Wrangler glass with rubber installed. CJ rubber and glass has leaking problems sometimes but the YJ setup has no chance of leaking . . . and it looks cleaner because the rubber isn't so big and doesn't stick forward as much. Another benefit is the YJ costs less than the CJ would have. The JC Whitney cowl rubber is soft enough it should work very well (glad it was recommended on here). I installed a 4-wire wiper motor on this one. My harness was for an 82. I took the big wiper plug assembly from a chopped up 84 harness and spliced the two wires needed to adapt the 83-86 wiper switch and the 4-wire wiper plug. To my knowledge, that seems to be the main difference in the early and later under-dash wiring harnesses.

 

[Kim Dawson]

Installed the windshield, visors, dash pad, and mirrors. It's coming together.

 

[Kim Dawson]

Had a couple of almost 70 degree days and got the hood painted. Unless I decide to put hard doors on this, all white body parts (except a rear step bumper) are painted.

 

[Kim Dawson]

Put the hood on. It's starting to look mostly complete.

 

[Kim Dawson]

I didn't have any final pictures of the boxes in this thread. Here they are. . .painted and installed.

 

[Kim Dawson]

Knocked the old T-bolts out of the rocker moldings and straightened them out. Bought these off of Ebay years ago. Glad I got them when they were cheap. Cleaned them up and the original anodizing wasn't too bad for its age. Used the new elevator bolts and bolted them on. Temp was up a little today so it was a nice day to get something done.

 

[wm69]

Knocked the old T-bolts out of the rocker moldings and straightened them out. Bought these off of Ebay years ago. Glad I got them when they were cheap. Cleaned them up and the original anodizing wasn't too bad for its age. Used the new elevator bolts and bolted them on. Temp was up a little today so it was a nice day to get something done.

details on the straightening? Any magic or just slow and steady?

 

[Kim Dawson]

details on the straightening? Any magic or just slow and steady?

I used a woodworkers vise to hold it near the point of the twist. Then I put a block of wood on the inside of the molding and another piece of wood on the outside and clamped them to the molding with a bar clamp. The bar clamp allowed me to get the leverage needed to un-twist the molding. Some final slight straightening was done by tightening it up in the wood vise. Aluminum bends back in shape fairly easily. Unless you have dents, best not to use a hammer.

 

[xatu40]

Don't use heat either. I'm still bummed out i lost one that way