• Notice for iPhone users: DO NOT use the image size reduction option when uploading photos to the forum. This causes portrait images to post as landscape. We have added a warning to the image insert pop-up as well.

Advice needed: Looking at buying a project cj-8

AdamH said:
Small world possibly. You said Ohio? I sold a Willys Overland tub to a guy in Ohio a few years back doing a complete rebuild. Wonder if it’s the same guy

regardless for $8k for all that it’s a no brainer
Click to expand...
Adam,

Was just looking through your "DO WHAT!?" thread, do you think it will be a big pain to get the corrected tub to fit with a full soft top or the half hard cab?

I asked the seller if the doors fit and he stated they will need modified a bit but it didn't sound too bad... But having to modify the entire rim of the tub would be a challenge
 
DOJOLOACH said:
Adam,

Was just looking through your "DO WHAT!?" thread, do you think it will be a big pain to get the corrected tub to fit with a full soft top or the half hard cab?

I asked the seller if the doors fit and he stated they will need modified a bit but it didn't sound too bad... But having to modify the entire rim of the tub would be a challenge
Click to expand...
Since I sold the tub before even taking it out of the crate all I can do is share my thoughts.

I shared the concerns with fitment that are well documented here with my paint and body guy. He’s a platinum certified collision repair guy / has been building custom cars / restoring cars for 25 years. He said that while making the new tub work sounds hard it’s easier in his opinion to fix those issues than rust repair on an original tub. I still went with the new to me original tub to keep the Postal OEM metal.

Like they always say anything can be fixed if you have the right tools, skills, time, $. Just up to you / your body guy what those lines are.
 
It was one long day, left charlotte area around 630, arrived at the sellers place at 230, left at 8.

My dad and I got everything except the spare rear and the 4.2L.

Feeling pumped as crap! Got a fun road ahead... Can't wait to see the wife's reaction!
 

Attachments

  • 20230617_195112.jpg
    20230617_195112.jpg
    135.3 KB · Views: 43
AdamH said:
Since I sold the tub before even taking it out of the crate all I can do is share my thoughts.

I shared the concerns with fitment that are well documented here with my paint and body guy. He’s a platinum certified collision repair guy / has been building custom cars / restoring cars for 25 years. He said that while making the new tub work sounds hard it’s easier in his opinion to fix those issues than rust repair on an original tub. I still went with the new to me original tub to keep the Postal OEM metal.

Like they always say anything can be fixed if you have the right tools, skills, time, $. Just up to you / your body guy what those lines are.
Click to expand...
I see now what you mean about all the extra work/labor. When you talk about restoring and fixing tubs, does that include the spot welds that have deformed the exterior panels too? Was reading they came that way from Jeep as well.

I was looking at the inside of the tub and I see how these things rust from the inside out... Lots of open holes between where the rear bed meets the passenger cabin. Seems impossible to rust proof the internal portion of that
 
spot welds could be seen from the factory along with lots of other potential manufacturing marks. I like to leave them
 
I'm debating what "mini" project to start with on this thing. I figure with the rear axle already rebuilt, the only thing left to get wheels on the frame is to rebuild the front end. However I just took glance at my frame in the garage and I've got surface rust starting to develop.

You guys think I should get the bumpers made and welded into the frame first so I can get the steel painted? Do people even weld the bumpers on? I've seen a lot that are just bolted
 
ag4ever said:
NV4500 is a truck transmission, slow deliberate shifts. No speed / power shifting. The AX-15 is a good general purpose transmission, not a slow shifting truck nor a fast shifting muscle car transmission. The AX-15 is not as strong as the NV-4500 but it also weighs half as much. AX-15 is an aluminum case, NV-4500 is cast iron.

I will be running an NV-4500 in my ‘82 behind an LS, but the AX-15 is probably a better choice. :twocents:
Click to expand...
An AX15 behind the LS ay? I have been trying to finalize the transmission selection and I see the NV3550 is a middleground between the AX15 and NV4500. How come you didn't opt for the NV3550?

I'm still trying to find torque and power ratings but I see the NV3550 is rated at 300ftlbs for a 7000lb vehicle.
 
From my research, the AX-15 is similar to the NV-3550 as far as input capacity goes.
 
DOJOLOACH said:
An AX15 behind the LS ay? I have been trying to finalize the transmission selection and I see the NV3550 is a middleground between the AX15 and NV4500. How come you didn't opt for the NV3550?

I'm still trying to find torque and power ratings but I see the NV3550 is rated at 300ftlbs for a 7000lb vehicle.
Click to expand...
Sorry, did not see your question.

I went with the NV-4500 because

1. I found a “cheap“ one locally (I think it was around $500)
2. It was originally behind an LS motor in a 3/4 ton truck (got the clutch, bellhousing, etc… making an easy install)
3. Everything on this build is overkill, so why not the transmission.
4. I plan to use an L92 engine (aluminum) so the weight of the engine is less by the same amount as the transmission being heavier (than the 3550)

Keep in mind that you are limited in how much power you can transmit through the transmission when the vehicle only weighs 3,000 lbs. (the 3,550 being rated at 7,000 lbs means it can handle a lot more torque in a lighter vehicle).

In the end, how do you plan to drive it? Side step clutch drops on 40’s -or- weekend fire road cruises. That will tell you which transmission you need.
 
@DOJOLOACH

FWIW - CRC Powdercoating in Mooresville will blast and powder coat your frame for less than $500 which includes transfer skid and other small bits usually. There are pros and cons to powder versus paint but for me personally I always pick powder coat. Just a thought. I do their "chassis black" that is the same sheen as factory paint was new.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top