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Bucket, the 1981 CJ8 frame off.

I almost commented after your previous post about the GM small bearing spindles and the ford parts for the 5 on 5.5 lug pattern. I started looking in that direction before I decided on 8 lug. I found it difficult and expensive to source the small bearing spindles (used anyway). I used 3/4 ton GM/Jeep hubs, backing plates and rotors.
 
I almost commented after your previous post about the GM small bearing spindles and the ford parts for the 5 on 5.5 lug pattern. I started looking in that direction before I decided on 8 lug. I found it difficult and expensive to source the small bearing spindles (used anyway). I used 3/4 ton GM/Jeep hubs, backing plates and rotors.
Yeah, I am not sure I am sticking with 5 lug... but the Chevy D44 is small bearing spindles.
The kit I found would use the factory calipers and abutments, which I am happy about.
 
As you can see, it's axle week from the previous pics... taking out all the stuff from out back, cutting it down to useable for Jeeps, et all and getting rid of it.

I am building both a GM 44 and a 60, that either may go into this. The 44 is a 1975, with the thick caliper brackets and small bearing spindles, which are all in good shape. Other than the ball joints seized up, it came apart with a Ford Wrench, seen in the pics with an orange handle.

Might convert to 5 on 5.5 and go spring over on stock leaves and run 35" tires. Depends on the Ford 9" or C+C 14B rear I match it to.
 

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Fitting up all the panels is fun... and I hate this aftermarket top, that does not have provisions for 3 pt seatbelts.
 

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It might be an earlier top. I don't think my 81 came with shoulder belts and has the same type top.
 
Fitting up all the panels is fun... and I hate this aftermarket top, that does not have provisions for 3 pt seatbelts.
Here's measurements off my '83 seatbelt holes. post #3 & #19

 
Well, I wish I hadn't soda- blasted this sport bar... but it does have seat belt bungs. So I guess we pop holes in the top and do some metal repair.
 

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Here goes nothing... cut 4" off the long side of a CUCV Dana 60 front. Even got the tube out of the C.
 

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Slowly getting there, on the body, when I or Olde Mike (that's his walker in the pic) can get to it. One side's done... need to get a new hood. Probably from @certifiablejeep
 

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So, now that We Iocked into Dana 60's front and rear for 35's (will never worry about breakage), what do y'all think? 4.56's?
 
So, now that We Iocked into Dana 60's front and rear for 35's (will never worry about breakage), what do y'all think? 4.56's?
I have 4.56's and 35's in my D44/D60 combo. And I have the early Chevy NV4500 with the 6.34 first gear and .73 5th gear.

You will have more power than my TBI 350. The 4.56's work great for me overall. Easy highway cruising at around 2300 rpm. If I had 37's I might want a little lower ratio (higher number) gears.
 
Moar
 

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Well, a customer wanted the HP60 rear we built for this, so he got it.
Now have a C&C Corp 14B and building the 60 front the same way we built it for the Orange Scrambler.
 
Front axle's done... bought rims too.
 

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Playing around with transmissions and t-cases today.
A 4L60E, with Alpha pan and valve body to Dana 300, with twin stick
A 6L80E with Dana 300 and JB Conversions 32 spline input. This is really the best fit, if you had a 5/8" thick clocking ring to make it flat. It bottoms out, .5" out.
And the case I am going to use for my 300, with LoMax gears, 32 spline inputs and outputs.
 

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I think most folks know this, that I am admin/mod on Pirate and now Irate, been involved there since I hosted the PBB under my desk living in EDH years ago. So I bought some Goat Built brackets to clean up my engine. It also moves my pump out of the way of the steering shaft, so a plus. They were cheap. It also puts the alternator closer to the battery, so a maxi-fuse on the inner fender will work well.
 

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