Butters - Jeff's 81 Scrambler Build Thread

[walkerhoundvm]

Not sure personally, but I've read recommendations for that particular seller and kit on Jeep Forum.

As far as I know, it's a pretty simple match-up of 1" bore master cylinder and YJ booster with an extended pedal rod that these guys probably put together in house. I have to think it costs them half as much to do, and we could, too if we can find the parts and weld the rod.

Just make sure you have the appropriate holes for that bracket, or else you'll have to drill them yourself. My '81 has them, so I imagine yours should as well.

 

[hefavitzen]

So as of today, February 22, my wife has helped me get my head on straight and lay out all the things I actually NEED to do from what I WANT to do. Ouch, but you know, that is a good thing.
So, my NEED list:
1) Change the plugs and set the timing - $30 for plugs. Need to find a timing light, damn things are expensive!
2) Bleed the brakes – free + time
3) Assess the steering rack and replace any loose ends.
4) Replace the steering gear box which is leaking. PSC or remanufactured? $150 to $400.
5) Install a Vacuum Brake Booster or a Hydro setup (fella’s gotta stop some time) - $170 - $880.
6) Find out why the fuel gauge does not work / drop the tank most likely. The PO had put in a new tank and I have found the old fuel lines left under the Jeep. No confidence that the fuel gauge ever worked after he installed the new tank.
7) Get a back window for the half hard top so I can put the soft top in the shop. $225 installed.
8) Get the electric fan operating on the temperature probe.

What I want to do:
1) Either get shoulder belt points added or get a later model roll bar.
2) Upgrade the blower motor on the heater
3) Replace the bumpers
4) Replace the headlights with H4’s or LED’s
5) Rewire the whole thing
6) New tires
7) Tuffy Console
8) In-frame headers and exhaust through mufflers (it is pretty loud!)
9) Paint!!!!
10) New wheels and tires (I hope to put 33's on the 15x8's if possible. I think I have a 2.5 inch lift though I know there is a Skyjacker lift of some kind)

So, my to do list is long, but who’s isn’t. You guys have any suggestions on the “NEED” list? How do you all feel about new brake boosters / steering components vs remanufacture vs junk yard stuff?

 

[bigwalton]

Don't know how I missed this thread til now, nice!!

Did you already do a fuel filter? First thing that came to mind when you said it wouldn't stay running and I didn't see it mentioned.

On the headlights, you can get big improvement cheaply by simply going to relays that power the stock lights straight off the battery, google it, pretty simple wiring job and costs a few spade lugs, some wire, inline circuit breakers and two simple relays. Stock setup sends power through headlight switch and stock wiring, you can imagine the losses in that setup. If you went with H4s (I did because I got a deal on them), you really need to do this anyway because of the increased current draw, so you'd be set for that.

I'd do the wires/dizzy cap/rotor at the same time as the plugs, keep what you have for spares.

I have yet to drop my tank, but if I did, I'd get it cleaned out at the same time.

I don't like remanned brake parts or steering, so I'd go new on the steering, but you may be able to just replace a seal if it's leaking but otherwise working fine. No experience personally though.

 

[hefavitzen]

Don't know how I missed this thread til now, nice!!

Did you already do a fuel filter? First thing that came to mind when you said it wouldn't stay running and I didn't see it mentioned.

On the headlights, you can get big improvement cheaply by simply going to relays that power the stock lights straight off the battery, google it, pretty simple wiring job and costs a few spade lugs, some wire, inline circuit breakers and two simple relays. Stock setup sends power through headlight switch and stock wiring, you can imagine the losses in that setup. If you went with H4s (I did because I got a deal on them), you really need to do this anyway because of the increased current draw, so you'd be set for that.

I'd do the wires/dizzy cap/rotor at the same time as the plugs, keep what you have for spares.

I have yet to drop my tank, but if I did, I'd get it cleaned out at the same time.

I don't like remanned brake parts or steering, so I'd go new on the steering, but you may be able to just replace a seal if it's leaking but otherwise working fine. No experience personally though.

I actually got the ignition system working just fine by wiring the distributor and coil up according to Mallory instructions. It just was wired wrong and always had been. It must have been a real PITA to drive for the PO; I know it was for me. I have replaced the fuel filter and rebuilt the carburetor, replaced the cap and rotor, put in new brake fluid and cleaned the MC out, replaced the Transmission filter and fluid and just eyeballed it a lot. Love driving it.

The steering is very sloppy giving me an easy quarter turn of slop and doing a bit of walking.

I will try get the gauge fixed and avoid dropping the tank, but if I have to I'll record my work.

Walkerhound actually pointed out a vendor who looks to be selling a brake booster cheaper than $400 (great!) and I am kind of leaning toward PSC as they will build the valving to my specs. I am used to some tight steering so I am wanting to get that feeling in the Jeep. I got a feeling I'll drive it to work 90% of the time I drive it rather than the dirt.

 

[Danimal713]

You mentioned a Mallory dist. There was a recent post that also had a Mallory & as I rremember the same symptom- just died. May want to call Mallory if it just dies flat with no desieling afterwards. I think there is a balast resistor that might have been the problem in that case. I unfortunately don't remember all the specifics.

 

[hefavitzen]

You mentioned a Mallory dist. There was a recent post that also had a Mallory & as I rremember the same symptom- just died. May want to call Mallory if it just dies flat with no desieling afterwards. I think there is a balast resistor that might have been the problem in that case. I unfortunately don't remember all the specifics.

Yep, that was the problem. The particular coil I have requires a specific ballast resistor to be wired into the circuit. What was happening was that the PO never wired the ballast resistor into the circuit. What is KILLING me is that the wired connections for the distributor had plenty of crud on them so it appears that this wiring set up has always been this way which means, that he had likely never driven more than a few miles without having to restart the engine. I could not pull it out of my drive way behind my house and around the block to the front of my house without restarting it. Shane, the man in Reno who went to look at it for me, noted that when he and the PO took it for a spin that it died multiple times.

So, I downloaded the wiring instructions to start diagnosis as simply as possible and lo and behold the wiring diagram did not match up to the wiring of my distributor and coil. So, I held my breath and took the wire from the distributor to the positive side of the coil and put the wire from the distributor onto the recommended post of the ballast resistor. Started it up and it has not died since. I do need to set the timing though as that seems to have changed a bit with the wiring change.

Crazy! I hope that wasn't the only reason he sold the Jeep! Was a totally easy fix!

 

[MN-Paul]

Wouldn't that be funny!!! He sells the scrambler becuse it dies all the time, gets tired of it and sells it.

Good for you.

 

[bigwalton]

Guy sold me my postal because it had an "ignition issue" and had gotten too temperamental to start. He'd just rebuilt the tranny and sold it for what he paid for the rebuild so he could get an outboard for his fishing boat

Turned out to be a bad neutral safety switch (reused the old one in the rebuild apparently or damaged it in the install) that I bypassed with a piece of wire and a spade lug. Total cost, about $.20

You DO hope that's why he sold it!!!!

 

[hefavitzen]

Is this how the half cab is supposed to attach?

So is this all that holds the front of the half cab on? Three puny screws and a thin strip of metal that is rivited to the top???? Scary!!!

 

[hefavitzen]

I put the half top on as the local ConvertibleTop Shop is putting a new back window in the K-Line full length soft top. I kinda want to run this top until it is nice out. Weird. I think the look is growing on me even more.

Defintly need to get the back window in.

 

[hefavitzen]

Anyone else running this type of Hi-Lift Jack Mount? The PO said he bought the jack, installed the mount and never took the jack down again. Cool!

 

[hefavitzen]

there is no rubber gromet to keep the tire latch from clanging and it is driving me nuts. Unfortunatly, it appears that the spare tire mount and whatever are welded to the origional rear bumper. OR, I guess this could be a factory part. Anyone ever seen a tire carrier like this before???

 

[hefavitzen]

I checked my fuel gauge today, as it does not currently work. It checks out fine at the guage, so I am thinking I'll need to drop the tank and check the wiring on the sending unit. Ugh.

While I was nosing around the tank look what I found! It is actually the whole bullet with a firing pin mark on the casing. I am not going to grab it with pliers, but will instead take off the fuel tank skid and let it drop. ccrrrraaazzzyyyy. Might just be something to prevent a squeek, but seriously.

 

[bobbysjeep]

Hitting a pot hole could turn your 8 into a 7!!!!

 

[hefavitzen]

Yeah, the more I noodle on it, I might be dropping the tank next weekend. Not yet a daily driver....

 

[John N]

So is this all that holds the front of the half cab on? Three puny screws and a thin strip of metal that is rivited to the top???? Scary!!!

Mine has 5 screws up there...

 

[Bushmaster6]

hard top fasteners

see my last update to my rebuild thread, and see Jeff Scherb's gaucho thread for the part numbers for these

based on some discussions on this forum, mostly a hat-tip to Jeff Scherb's outstanding thread, I ordered three (should have bought four) of these tie-down latches and installed them to hold the front of the hard top on:

eventually I'll order a fourth one and bracket the other side of the windshield tie-down point, just to make it look even

 

[hefavitzen]

Well it is raining here today off and on, so no work on the hard top.

I did just get a call from the Convertible top guys and the new back window in my KayLine is costing me $200 with new zippers. Just an FYI.

So, my wife complains I smell like exhaust after driving the Jeep. So, I had yet to change the plugs so I thought I would at least take a look at them.

YUCK!!!! HOLY MOLY!!! Those are some yucky plugs! Unfortunatly I have to wait till it is not raining to change them all out (personal preference to work outside while not being rained upon). I am pretty sure that this is the result of the hosed up ignition for the last 13 years, but we'll see. I pulled plugs from both sides of the engine and they all look disgusting.

I also checked my vacuum at the manifold and I am right at 18 and rock solid.

 

[hefavitzen]

see my last update to my rebuild thread, and see Jeff Scherb's gaucho thread for the part numbers for these

I am doing this as soon as possible!

 

[Polarfire]

That rear bumper looks homemade. Also looks like a much heavier rear crossmember on there (which is a good thing). Personally, I would cut that tire carrier off and either buy or make a better rear bumper/tire carrier. Those plugs should deffinately be replaced. You should probably get new cap and rotor and plug wires too. Just Empty Every Pocket!