- City
- Redding
- State
- Ca
Awesome design! Some good add on ideas.
DOJO's 1st OCHO
- Thread starter DOJOLOACH
- Start date
Spent half the day making the shifter rods fit, note the patch in my tub to have clearance for the twin stick kit. I wish I just ponies up $ for a cable shifter kit and moved the transfer case shifters closer to the firewall, probably a 1" transfer case drop as well. I'll definitely attempt to cover part of it with the floor mat and centerconsole so shouldn't be as noticeable.
Custom shift boot as well. I bought some blank vinyl yardage from my seat vendor, and had stronghold shiftboots use it with some blue stiching. Going to have sendcutsend make an exact same bezel shape as the tunnel cover so I can use the same bolt locations
Custom shift boot as well. I bought some blank vinyl yardage from my seat vendor, and had stronghold shiftboots use it with some blue stiching. Going to have sendcutsend make an exact same bezel shape as the tunnel cover so I can use the same bolt locations
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Did you have to get stiffer rear shocks for the extra weight?
- City
- Redding
- State
- Ca
I did order stiffer valving than Bilstein support recommended. They are using 700/2550 valving.
Both front and read use the same valving. I'm heavy. Especially when fully loaded. But I don't find the ride harsh even when unloaded. I did used the 6 leaf Rubicon Express 1.5" YJ springs vs the 5-leaf that was also available. I find the ride and handling to be very comfortable and planted. Even with the height of my Scrambler, the on-road handling is very good with the sway bar connected. With my SOA setup, and the sway bar disconnected, I get great flex for a leaf spring setup. Pages 4 and 7 on my build thread show the flex and suspension details.
| Bilstein 33-185552 Front Collapsed Length (IN)15.91 Extended Length (IN)25.93 700/2550 valving |
| Bilstein 33-186542 Rear Collapsed Length (In )15.12 Extended Length (IN)24.35 700/2550 valving |
Thinking back, I believe I referenced that bilstein model in your thread when I bought them, just adjusted the lengths based on what the lengths were that came with my 4" RC lift.
I went with a dual fan dual speed Ford contour fan for a measly $145 for the Dorman brand. I cut it up with my Dremel and made some cheap mounting brackets with scrap metal, here are some pictures of it mounted. Upgraded 100a alternator installed as well.
Supposedly both fans turning on at the same time can be as much as 80a or 100a instantaneous load . I'm leaning towards either of these two wiring options
- A dummyproof painless wiring relay kit where both fans turn on at 100% when a/c is on and when engine temp gets to 185 or 195. (185 thermostat installed).
- Dualspeed relay from a BMW and diy wiring. Both fans would come on at 50% when a/c is on and/or engine temp is at 195. With 100% speed at a higher temp like 205.
I went with a dual fan dual speed Ford contour fan for a measly $145 for the Dorman brand. I cut it up with my Dremel and made some cheap mounting brackets with scrap metal, here are some pictures of it mounted. Upgraded 100a alternator installed as well.
Supposedly both fans turning on at the same time can be as much as 80a or 100a instantaneous load . I'm leaning towards either of these two wiring options
- A dummyproof painless wiring relay kit where both fans turn on at 100% when a/c is on and when engine temp gets to 185 or 195. (185 thermostat installed).
- Dualspeed relay from a BMW and diy wiring. Both fans would come on at 50% when a/c is on and/or engine temp is at 195. With 100% speed at a higher temp like 205.
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I got the green light to devote all my freetime on the jeep so I've been hitting it hard about 3-4 hours every night in July. Absolutely brutal for me temp wise with my unconditioned garage and my dinky floor fan
Tasks ive checked off since last update:
-Engine bay is fully assembled and wired, need to hook up fan connections but that's it. Painless #10150 for the win. If you're on the fence about a new wire harness this one has been worth its weight in gold to me. Ratcheting klein crimpers and a free HF heat gun are also worthy mentions.
- External slave cylinder clutch is functional, throwout bearing seems to be touching the clutch fingers barely. May have to trim more length from the slave pushrod ( Hopefully no adjustable throwout bearing is required).
Next up:
- Loom wires in engine and chassis.
- Make a bracket for a 1998 Corvette clutch safety switch ( I don't believe the ax15 or cj8 had one)
- Install dash vents and amp, followed by complete dash assembly
Tasks ive checked off since last update:
-Engine bay is fully assembled and wired, need to hook up fan connections but that's it. Painless #10150 for the win. If you're on the fence about a new wire harness this one has been worth its weight in gold to me. Ratcheting klein crimpers and a free HF heat gun are also worthy mentions.
- External slave cylinder clutch is functional, throwout bearing seems to be touching the clutch fingers barely. May have to trim more length from the slave pushrod ( Hopefully no adjustable throwout bearing is required).
Next up:
- Loom wires in engine and chassis.
- Make a bracket for a 1998 Corvette clutch safety switch ( I don't believe the ax15 or cj8 had one)
- Install dash vents and amp, followed by complete dash assembly
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It's pretty smooth that's for sure. The painless manual made me understand the oem harness a lot better. So in hindsight I could have used the manual to go with my original.
I'm looking at a few options for the amp location
Option 1: Behind the glove box, this would require trimming ~1" off the back of the plastic glove box.
Option 2/3, between the heater and the fresh air intake box, it almost fits too perfect I can't get a thin sheet metal bracket in there if laying parallel to the dash length ways.
Option 4: is some type or odd bracket to secure it to left of the brake/clutch and above the ebrake bracket
Option 5: would be a waterproof box with a few holes drilled for air exchange, and bolted under the driver seat. Amp is not waterproof, though.
Option 6: Inside my center console. Center console project I'm putting off until next year so I'd need a temp spot in the meantime.
I think I'm leaning towards behind the glove box, but could use some insight from you all.
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I'd mount the amp where you can get to its controls/settings without taking your dash apart. I play with the crossover and gain adjustments a bunch before finalizing.
Good input guys.
I thought I had the room behind the glove box but didn't account for the heater resistor or cables and it would be too big a pain to deal with and adjust.
Until I get a center console I'm just going to remove the glove box all together.. if I'm lucky I'll be able to keep a pair of cheap sunglasses behind the glovebox door
Okay the glove box still identifies as a "glove box" 
. I suppose I could fit a few small tools in here. Too bad it doesn't lock. Amp controls are accessible if I'm laying on my back with a stubby flat head. I'll have the amp settings finalized before the A/C goes in.
. I suppose I could fit a few small tools in here. Too bad it doesn't lock. Amp controls are accessible if I'm laying on my back with a stubby flat head. I'll have the amp settings finalized before the A/C goes in.Attachments
The dash is coming together, just waiting on painless wiring to ship me a warrantied turn signal pigtail ( apparently a bad mold was used at some point) and also a load generator for my retrosound head unit.
I decided on bfgoodrich k02 in a 33 x 12.5 r15 size on gloss black wheels. Hopefully getting my rims sandblasted and tires on in a couple of weeks
I decided on bfgoodrich k02 in a 33 x 12.5 r15 size on gloss black wheels. Hopefully getting my rims sandblasted and tires on in a couple of weeks
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- City
- Redding
- State
- Ca
Here is where and how I added my stereo amp. It's been working great. Didn't need to raise up the Tuffy Console.
and the finished "false bottom" to protect the wires:
and the finished "false bottom" to protect the wires:
If you recall, I added the stereo amp to the bottom of the Tuffy locking console. I finally made the "false bottom" to protect the wiring.
I used some left over 1/2" thick commercial cutting board and 1x1 wood blocks to elevate it. I needed 1.5" to clear the wiring but gave it 3" to allow for more air as the relay does get hot when running the stereo hard.
Here it was before:
And here are some pics of it:
I definitely lost a decent amount of capacity but it still has a good amount of room. I have a storage area with 8" of...
I used some left over 1/2" thick commercial cutting board and 1x1 wood blocks to elevate it. I needed 1.5" to clear the wiring but gave it 3" to allow for more air as the relay does get hot when running the stereo hard.
Here it was before:
And here are some pics of it:
I definitely lost a decent amount of capacity but it still has a good amount of room. I have a storage area with 8" of...
I like that spot for an amp the most, if I decide for whatever reason to put a sub in the thing then that's where the amp will go.
Dash is finally on, wheels are in, I am so close to driving this thing. Been having some stupid issues bleeding the brakes, other than that the chassis and drivetrain is torqued, greased, and ready to go!
Dash is finally on, wheels are in, I am so close to driving this thing. Been having some stupid issues bleeding the brakes, other than that the chassis and drivetrain is torqued, greased, and ready to go!
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Finally got the brakes figured out. Took it for a spin around the block last night, then my coolant reservoir blew a hole and the belts were squeeking badly. I'll try again tonight after tightening the belts a bit. When I saw the steam blowing off the headers I thought I was in deep doodoo lol, I pray that's the worst of my issues. Apparantly in the 70s the FSJ models didn't all come with a reservoir anyways, i patched mine and a replacement is on order though.
Also finished my 2x4 steel bumper and the front seat, I'm happy with how it turned out for now.
For the seat I followed a couple of youtube videos on reinforcing the bottom frame with new metal and welds. I installed the rostra seat heater kit as well, for only $60 I couldn't pass it up. The seat covers come with slots for new metal rods to be hogringed underneath both pieces. I recommend the seats 10/10, only gripe is the back of the backrest doesn't have piping to secure on the bottom of the seat.
Also finished my 2x4 steel bumper and the front seat, I'm happy with how it turned out for now.
For the seat I followed a couple of youtube videos on reinforcing the bottom frame with new metal and welds. I installed the rostra seat heater kit as well, for only $60 I couldn't pass it up. The seat covers come with slots for new metal rods to be hogringed underneath both pieces. I recommend the seats 10/10, only gripe is the back of the backrest doesn't have piping to secure on the bottom of the seat.
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Small interior update:
Finished both of the YJ half door assemblies. I used the same vinyl as the nutmeg seat covers from ebay and SEM colorcoat on the upper door pin holes and grab handle. Now I'm going to attempt to refinish the black dash pad the same way. Knowing the vinyl was used on the seats, it probably isn't as stretchy as it should be for this application but seems to be OK.
Fire extinguisher added in an accessible and not obnoxious spot
Finished both of the YJ half door assemblies. I used the same vinyl as the nutmeg seat covers from ebay and SEM colorcoat on the upper door pin holes and grab handle. Now I'm going to attempt to refinish the black dash pad the same way. Knowing the vinyl was used on the seats, it probably isn't as stretchy as it should be for this application but seems to be OK.
Fire extinguisher added in an accessible and not obnoxious spot
