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Giving it a Jolt

Got the manual steering box in, pretty simple once the snapped bolts were out. Went with a heavy duty bracket. I do have a couple questions.

1) Are the components different between manual and power steering? The output shaft (to the pitman arm) seems to be narrower and the input shaft (from the steering wheel) also seems slightly narrower).

2) Has anyone seen a drop pitman arm for a manual steering set-up and a 2” lift?

3) My leafs are apparently about 3/4“ outbound of the chassis. I always thought the shackle was a bit crooked. I’ll fix that but the shackles on both sides seem to rub the chassis. Anyone have a recommendation for a decent replacement?

Pictures in the next post.
 
timo439 said:
View attachment 89322View attachment 89323View attachment 89324View attachment 89325
Click to expand...
The misalignment of the front shackles is a common problem. I have found that some frames seem to “pinch in” at the back hanger, leveraging the front of the springs outwards. In the past I have spread the frame a bit at the skid plate/crossmember and loosened the u bolts at the axle. Used a ratchet strap to pull the fronts together, then tightened everything down. I think that structurally the skid plate assembly allows flex and over time the frame rails develop a minor inward bow. I know there is no room but I think CJ frames should have had a fixed crossmember somewhere in the area of the firewall.
 
To answer your first question... for manual box you need a manual steering shaft... I know they had adapters in the 90's... for when you would up grade to a power setup and had a manual shaft... but not sure if that is the case in the opposite direction.

I get mainly 95% P/S Jeeps when I get them, so I am not sure if I have a manual shaft or not, but I will take a look.

cb

NOTE: I think I have 2 or 3 manual boxes, let me see if any of them have drop pitmans on them, if so, I will let you know (along with the shaft).
 
certifiablejeep said:
Yes, pitman arms are different between manual and power.
Back in the day they had 4" drop pitmans for both power/manual as they would ask you when ordering a lift kit.
As for them now?

Interwebs are great...

https://www.morris4x4center.com/pit...YyXzmTT0_QjAGED1Xx-3G-32FlrYUW9IaAiBsEALw_wcB

cb
Click to expand...


Thanks. I found the same on different sites but none listed anything less than 3.5" of lift. I grabbed one with the same amount of drop so I'll see if it works.
 
I checked for a shaft and all the ones I have are for power steering... both manual boxes I have are for regular springs... not a drop pitman... sorry.

cb
 
Have a manual pitman for stock and shaft. Sitting in my metal nunk pile waiting to go. Yours if you want.
 
Had you thought about an electric power steering pump? Not sure how much juice they draw and how it would ultimately affect your driving range.
 
Anyone have suggestions on how to force an “extendable” heavy duty steering shaft to extend the last 1.5 inches? I have gone the heat and BFH route. Starting to think I got a bum shaft. Here is the old next to the new.

5DC4E842-3D06-4CE3-A721-1DE0D5B4167E.jpeg
 
jpnmaine said:
Have a manual pitman for stock and shaft. Sitting in my metal nunk pile waiting to go. Yours if you want.
Click to expand...

just saw this, unfortunately I already grabbed replacements. Thanks anyway.
 
barrys said:
Had you thought about an electric power steering pump? Not sure how much juice they draw and how it would ultimately affect your driving range.
Click to expand...

I thought about this but wanted to keep it simple until I know this experiment actually works. If the manual steering is painful I might consider going back to power.
 
John N said:
Instead of trying to get a drop pitman arm, flip the tie rod and drag link on top of the steering knuckles.
Click to expand...

Hadn’t even thought of this. I grabbed a drop pitman, if it’s too much drop, I might do just this. I replaced all the components last year so, in theory, all should come apart easily.
 
timo439 said:
Anyone have suggestions on how to force an “extendable” heavy duty steering shaft to extend the last 1.5 inches? I have gone the heat and BFH route. Starting to think I got a bum shaft. Here is the old next to the new.

View attachment 89419
Click to expand...

did you melt the 2 plastic tabs out?
If so, they should come apart completely... I put one end in a vice and tap the other end and they come apart in 2 pieces.

cb
 
It’s been awhile since I’ve updated. Holidays got in the way and I’m still waiting on some significant parts (adapter plate, BMS, etc..). I have made progress removing all the original wiring, pulling the dash, replacing the behind the dash harness and also prepping the dash with the new radio and battery gauge.

I’ve also test fit the battery box (with a mock up) in place of the gas tank. The picture is a bit misleading as it’s not as high as it will fit. I expect 3 battery packs in the back.
 
I am working out battery placement and much of the decision is influenced by three factors (space, ideal weight distribution, factory weight distribution).

Each battery module weighs ~55lbs, a full tank of gas (19g's) weighs ~120lbs and I think the engine with associated parts weighs ~450lbs, the electric engine weights ~150lbs.

As I need 7 battery modules, my thought was 3 in place of the gas tank in back (165lbs) and 4 in place of the original engine (370lbs including engine). Alternatively, I could put 4 in back and 3 up front.

Questions:
1) Is my weight estimate for the original engine close?
2) Do you see much impact on stability in either scenario?
3) Should I have concerns hanging 165lbs vs 120lbs from the rear crossmembers?

Thanks for any and all feedback.
 
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