Gr8Dain's 4.0/aw4 swap from a 97 XJ

[spankrjs]

Is any part of the Dana 300 shifter stuff contacting the transmission case

 

[Randyzzz]

First thing to do is measure the distance from the spacer outer flange to the end of the t/c input snout. Then run a straight edge across the trans, and using a thin rod measure the depth alongside the splined output into the trans. If there’s adequate clearance there perform a similar check except for the t/c bearing retainer vs trans end housing. Something will be off. I’m assuming you checked the depth of the t/c input compared to the length of the trans output already? You have to go by spline depth on the input as I don’t think they are cut all the way to the bottom.

Just did a little online research. Look like depending on the year of trans/transfer, you may need a 7/8”- 1” thick spacer.

 

[gr8dain]

I forget, were these together previously? Can you measure the shaft length and the female spline on the Tcase? Did you lubricate the seal?

They were not. I had the t-case attached to my T176 before. But not attached to this aw4.

I put some grease on the tranny output shaft this morning and mated them to see how far it slides. And found out that the input shaft is stopping at a plate inside the transmission. The depth to that plate is a smidge less than the length of the input shaft on the t-case. Short by about 3/4 inch. And if I cut down the input shaft, I think I will still need to trim down the output shaft as the distance is sticks out of the transmission is more than the depth of the t-case input shaft. So if I want to “cut” then I will need to cut both.

 

[gr8dain]

Just did a little online research. Look like depending on the year of trans/transfer, you may need a 7/8”- 1” thick spacer.

Yeah. I think 1”. I checked the depth of mine and it is 3/4”. So a 7/8” will still leave a small gap. I will look for a 1”.

 

[gr8dain]

Also, is it OK to weld in an O2 bung at the collector of the manifold?

 

[gr8dain]

Is any part of the Dana 300 shifter stuff contacting the transmission case

Nope

 

[gr8dain]

Just did a little online research. Look like depending on the year of trans/transfer, you may need a 7/8”- 1” thick spacer.

I just measured the distance from the t-case to the transmission. 1 and 1/4 inches. So the clocking ring I have is 3/4. Leaving 1/2” gap. So now to see if they make a 1 and 1/2” clocking ring.

 

[FLCJ8]

Yeah. I think 1”. I checked the depth of mine and it is 3/4”. So a 7/8” will still leave a small gap. I will look for a 1”.

Not trying to be a smarta$$, just may save you some searching...
If yours is 3/4" wouldn't 7/8" give you 1/8" clearance vs. 1/4" clearance of the 1"

 

[gr8dain]

Not trying to be a smarta$$, just may save you some searching...
If yours is 3/4" wouldn't 7/8" give you 1/8" clearance vs. 1/4" clearance of the 1"

I will take any assistance. Much appreciated. The way I see it, a 7/8 would cut down my gap by 1/8”. Right? Leaving me with 3/8” gap instead of the 1/2” I have now. I want 0” of gap, right?

 

[gr8dain]

I decided to mount the intake and exhaust manifolds. So I will just add the O2 bung to the pipe closer to the cat.

 

[tower210]

I thought this was gonna be a quick refresh?

:flame:

 

[Belizeit]

It always starts out like that. Then it starts with one small improvement and things escalate from there.

 

[Randyzzz]

I just measured the distance from the t-case to the transmission. 1 and 1/4 inches. So the clocking ring I have is 3/4. Leaving 1/2” gap. So now to see if they make a 1 and 1/2” clocking ring.

Just get another 3/4” ring and make sure to seal it all up.

 

[gr8dain]

Just get another 3/4” ring and make sure to seal it all up.

I was wondering if you can stack them like that.

 

[gr8dain]

Went to do a couple of other little things. Man it is much nicer to put stuff on a motor when it is in the garage and not in the Jeep. Added the starter. And went to put the alternator on, but I need a longer top bolt. So I will need to tun to the store. I also need to get bolts for the power steering pump.

 

[tower210]

I hear that superchargers are easier to put on out of the bay..... Just sayin'

 

[gr8dain]

I went to advance adapters website and they say a new thinner retaining ring is required. I guess that brings in the overall length of the input shaft? I will call on Monday and ask. Oh, and modification is still needed. Hmmmm

 

[FLCJ8]

I will take any assistance. Much appreciated. The way I see it, a 7/8 would cut down my gap by 1/8”. Right? Leaving me with 3/8” gap instead of the 1/2” I have now. I want 0” of gap, right?

Okay, I reread the original post I quoted and then went back to look at the pics you had previously posted...
I originally took it to mean you had a 3/4" gap, I see now you were referring to the thickness of the adapter you already had.
Sorry for the confusion. I feel like a complete idiot
Sounds like the call should be helpful.
Good luck, just a small stumble on the way to a great ending.

 

[Randyzzz]

I went to advance adapters website and they say a new thinner retaining ring is required. I guess that brings in the overall length of the input shaft? I will call on Monday and ask. Oh, and modification is still needed. Hmmmm

Hmm, don’t like losing the front seal but a sealed bearing isn’t a bad thing. Not quite as good as a splash lubricated bearing but almost. Probably a better solution than stacking spacers.

 

[gr8dain]

So I ordered the thinner retainer as well as a stock length input shaft. That should solve my problem the right way. Hope it comes soon and I have time to work on it and get the whole drivetrain installed.