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Looking for HD transmission mount now that D300 is clocked up - Recommendations?

tower210

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
City
Olathe
State
KS
As the title says; with my AX-15 to D300 clocked up to almost flat; it looks like I can save almost 3" of belly fat; and my OEM skid seems to have a bit of "wobble" with the current mount. Looking for something heavy duty.

These are the two I've found so far:

https://genright.com/products/universal-transmission-crossmember-kit.html

https://www.tmrcustoms.com/universal-transmission-transfer-case-crossmember-mount

I like the look of the 1st one a little better; but the price of the second one.

Any other reccomendations? Thoughts?
 

walkerhoundvm

Just trying to stay upright
Lifetime Member
City
Cave Creek
State
AZ
If you have time, I can check to see what my builder did this coming week. I had the traditional mount on it, but he picked something up and incorporated it into the skid plate. Probably towards the end of the week?
 

designerRob

CJ-8 Member
Silver Member
City
Allen Park
State
MI
Tower210, did you ever figure out what you wanted to do with the mount & skid plate?
 

tower210

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
City
Olathe
State
KS
No.....Still on my to-do list....I've been lazy this winter 8-)
 

tower210

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
City
Olathe
State
KS
The Barnes 4wd looks like a great deal....need to measure carefully........
 

CJ8Rockcrawler

The FABLED 8
Lifetime Member
City
Minneapolis
State
MN
I'm happy with it. I just needed to clearance the front lip a little to clear the exhaust and the front driveshaft. You may not have to do that depending on exhaust routing and amount of lift etc.
 

tower210

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
City
Olathe
State
KS
Can you snap pictures?

I don't think I can go flat (not that tucked) but I think 2" is too much; which one did you use?

I suppose I could go flat and put 1/2 or 1" spacers in on the frame mount..... The 2" may be closer than I think.....
 

designerRob

CJ-8 Member
Silver Member
City
Allen Park
State
MI
I'm happy with it. I just needed to clearance the front lip a little to clear the exhaust and the front driveshaft. You may not have to do that depending on exhaust routing and amount of lift etc.
What mount did you use? Pics would be cool. ?

The previous owner of my Jeep swapped in the ax15 but didn't clock up the tcase. I'll be looking to do something similar as you guys.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
This is what I did when I swapped in an AX15. I am using the Novak adapter/clocking ring between the AX15 and Dana 300. I was able to reuse the stock transmission mount, torque arm plate and bushing assembly, and only had to drill three holes in the OEM skid plate. Starts around post #1264:

https://www.cj-8.com/threads/anothe...trip-update-body-on-frame-again.24692/page-64

I am using the stock skid plate, with whatever drop it has built in. I did not want to make a "flat belly", I was worried about drive line angles and floor pan interference. I need to cut off the OEM skid plates "bulge", and I will gain a bunch of clearance :twocents:

Not sure if this is what y'all are looking for. It has held up fine for me for over 10,000 miles of on/off-road usage. I am running a 4.0. Best thing, all stock parts that did not cost me anything, and I only had to drill three holes in the skid plate.
 

tower210

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
City
Olathe
State
KS
This is what I did when I swapped in an AX15. I am using the Novak adapter/clocking ring between the AX15 and Dana 300. I was able to reuse the stock transmission mount, torque arm plate and bushing assembly, and only had to drill three holes in the OEM skid plate. Starts around post #1264:

https://www.cj-8.com/threads/anothe...trip-update-body-on-frame-again.24692/page-64

I am using the stock skid plate, with whatever drop it has built in. I did not want to make a "flat belly", I was worried about drive line angles and floor pan interference. I need to cut off the OEM skid plates "bulge", and I will gain a bunch of clearance :twocents:

Not sure if this is what y'all are looking for. It has held up fine for me for over 10,000 miles of on/off-road usage. I am running a 4.0. Best thing, all stock parts that did not cost me anything, and I only had to drill three holes in the skid plate.

I have RE-used my stock one similar to yours when I did the 4.0/AX-15 swap, but mine seems to have a bit of “bounce” or play in it - haven’t studied it well to determine where it’s coming from..... Are you just going to plasma out the “hump” and weld a flat piece in?
 

John N

Addicted....Ex-SOA VP
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Rockville
State
VA
I have RE-used my stock one similar to yours when I did the 4.0/AX-15 swap, but mine seems to have a bit of “bounce” or play in it - haven’t studied it well to determine where it’s coming from..... Are you just going to plasma out the “hump” and weld a flat piece in?
When I clocked my transfer case up halfway, I did cut the bulge off of the skid plate. I welded a piece of flat steel in its place and have run it that way for years. No problem and I gained some clearance.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
I have RE-used my stock one similar to yours when I did the 4.0/AX-15 swap, but mine seems to have a bit of “bounce” or play in it - haven’t studied it well to determine where it’s coming from..... Are you just going to plasma out the “hump” and weld a flat piece in?

Yes, that is on the to do list, cut the hump out and weld in some flat steel.

I am running polyurethane transmission and motor mounts, I can not find quality rubber mounts anymore that last more then a month or two. Especially on my tan Scrambler, 350/700R4, I would get a few weeks out of rubber transmission mounts :eek:

On the skid plate, a few years ago when I was working on Josh's tan 1981 Scrambler (factory 258/auto), I noticed that the OEM skid plate on it was almost entirely flat, no hump, kind of like a Dana 20 skid plate. If I could find one of these skid plates, I would just swap it on, no modifications necessary :thumbsup:
 

bigwalton

Alaskan Postal nutjob
FORUM MANAGER
SOA Member
City
Dexter
State
MI
I just pie cut the middle of the hump by eye and beat it flat before welding it back together. Cost me a little bit of grinding wheel, welding wire and gas. Ended up trimming a little off the end of the reworded hump for driveshaft clearance.

Easy to do until you source something else. :shrug:
 
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