Meet Red, my 81 Restomod Build

Randyzzz

Blown Budget
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Redmond
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I forgot to mention what you use the leftover piece of DOM for. (I said 12" but only used 7") After I get everything assembled I will cut the 5" in half and drill it to 7/16" ID and use it to space the bolt through the hardtop. I think a spacer with a grade 8 bolt through it will be the strongest solution.
 

ag4ever

Average Nut
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Richmond
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TX
That is a top notch way to install shoulder belts to an ‘81 or early ‘82.

I just welded lug nuts to the front side of the roll bar. Figured it would be just as strong as the anchorage to the floor since the floors are just sheet metal. Hard part is finding a nut that is fine thread 7/16”, lug nuts are one of the easiest to source options.
 

Randyzzz

Blown Budget
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Redmond
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That is a top notch way to install shoulder belts to an ‘81 or early ‘82.

I just welded lug nuts to the front side of the roll bar. Figured it would be just as strong as the anchorage to the floor since the floors are just sheet metal. Hard part is finding a nut that is fine thread 7/16”, lug nuts are one of the easiest to source options.
Thank you! If there’s a way to overbuild something, I’ll figure it out. 🤔
 

Randyzzz

Blown Budget
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Redmond
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This old boy is exhausted! I finished the day yesterday by painting Rust Mort over all the surface rust on the bottom. Not much, but I don’t want any.
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It still wasn’t dry this morning, so I Tackled the crossmember modification. Nothing fancy here- cut a chunk out and weld in a piece of tube. Found a squatter had been using the old crossmember as a residence-
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I used a hole saw to create a new path for the filler neck, and welded in another piece of tube. It’s right below 2 of the roll bar bolts, but with the tube welded in it’s probably stronger than before. Next I welded in a 1”x3” rectangular tube. Ran it past the angle and plug welded the ends for extra support. Plenty of clearance for the pump now.

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By now the Rust Mort was dry, so with an assortment of wet towels and a spray bottle I removed any remaining acid. A3964469-A302-40D4-A0A7-3F19AD02F579.jpeg

Hit the new steel and any bare spots with epoxy. One more coat of epoxy tomorrow and it’s time for undercoat.
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At this point my painter stopped by and we discussed the job. Showed him a bunch of stuff I was concerned about, and his answers far surpassed my expectations. I’m thinking he’s treating this like a show vehicle! I’m going to have a busy weekend-I have to have everything at his shop Tuesday morning. I have it back in 2 weeks! I am beyond excited!
 
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jammer1

Scrambler Junkie
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Maple Hts.
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Oh
If you're not thinking of it I would hit the entire bottom with epoxy. Will seal old paint and new epoxy so hopefully no reactions from different chemicals. Also gives a good chemical bond to the bedliner. And last, if something damages the bedliner and water starts to work under the bedliner, it's good extra protection for the metal tub.
 

Randyzzz

Blown Budget
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Redmond
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If you're not thinking of it I would hit the entire bottom with epoxy. Will seal old paint and new epoxy so hopefully no reactions from different chemicals. Also gives a good chemical bond to the bedliner. And last, if something damages the bedliner and water starts to work under the bedliner, it's good extra protection for the metal tub.
I actually ended up painting the whole bottom. Looks pretty great as-is. But I’m still going to undercoat it, I was really impressed how they Resist-All held up on my 82. Even with winter driving!

I was also able to get the grille opened up for the bigger dual pass radiator, and welded up some popped welds and a couple cracks. I also welded up the mirror holes in the windshield hinges.

Tomorrow- undercoat. Then drill the door hinges for mirrors, strip the doors, drill the fenders for the flares, and cut the dash for two A/C vents.

Then- Paint!
 
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Randyzzz

Blown Budget
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Redmond
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Undercoated! Same stuff the dealer would have used. I really like how easy this stuff is to use! It’s Resist-All, and I used it under my 82. I was impressed at the protection, even after driving it in the snow with the de-icer. It held up great, and wasn’t a pain to work around.


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Randyzzz

Blown Budget
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Redmond
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Busted my butt working late these last few days, and as of last night I was close but not quite. Still had to get the radiator to fit, and figure out a door issue.
Luck was on my side, my painter texted me before I could text him. He needed an extra day. Whew!
Radiator fittment was no real issue. I had already trimmed the grille, I just needed to make a pocket for the radiator cap. CE6D996F-DD5E-429C-81C0-2C6AFFFB0E29.jpeg 2413305B-19AF-4D59-9FAF-6D5DA065D8F6.jpeg 81ECB469-1CE6-414C-85E7-ED54B86373E8.jpeg 2EAB0227-2D48-45BB-84AB-4A732E882366.jpeg
The door issue is a head-scratcher. The tiny arm that holds the guide for the U-shaped rod from the exterior handle to the latch is broken. It’s made out of the flimsiest steel I’ve ever seen. It’s attached in an unreachable position, between the outer door skin and the window run channel. I’m wondering if I really need it...the door worked fine without it. Can’t even get a really good picture-
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Randyzzz

Blown Budget
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Redmond
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So... I bent up a piece of scrap and welded on the spring clip. I’m guessing that’s why it’s riveted to something- spring steel doesn’t like getting hot.
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I scuffed the paint off the run (after making sure everything cleared) and tacked it in place. I think it will work just fine.

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It just had to work, not look good- obviously. I can see where the rod had been rubbing on the door so I’m glad I fixed it. Yep. This is one of those things that you find in your Jeep and think “What was the PO thinking?”
 
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don87401

Scrambler Junkie
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Farmington
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NM
Have you tried the head light buckets in the grill with the radiator yet. I'm my cj6 I shifted my AC condensor and radiator to one side. The A.C. condensor was in the way to put in the lights. My radiator cleared but had to move the A.C. back to center. By widening the hole it could happen to you. Hopefully your radiator is not too deep to miss the lights.
 

Randyzzz

Blown Budget
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Redmond
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Have you tried the head light buckets in the grill with the radiator yet. I'm my cj6 I shifted my AC condensor and radiator to one side. The A.C. condensor was in the way to put in the lights. My radiator cleared but had to move the A.C. back to center. By widening the hole it could happen to you. Hopefully your radiator is not too deep to miss the lights.
I did a quick fit up. It looks like they will slightly interfere with the headlamp buckets. There might be some trimming involved. I think standard bulbs will clear, plenty of room for A/C condenser and trans cooler. I’m considering LED headlamps, if I can find some that aren’t too funky looking. We shall see. I’ll make it work one way or another.
 

Randyzzz

Blown Budget
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Off to the body shop! 112C8898-4A03-4078-8BA9-94C36DBE415E.jpeg Next time I se her she will be sporting new clothes! CCDAC7AC-29FF-4839-B437-7F08FF45F3AE.jpeg Then I got a little tour and got to see what else they were working on and previous projects. Talk about impressive. If my paint turns out half as good as these, it should look amazing! 59641E68-9475-4D6E-B724-8F1ECD69268B.jpeg 63098E74-A522-490E-A17C-C9D411842704.jpeg 672E16E5-F137-43A7-82B1-68988D14E119.jpeg 092C56E8-1D64-4559-8786-3567DF0CBB60.jpeg
 

Randyzzz

Blown Budget
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Redmond
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Here we go again. Today was a bit frustrating, and looking back at Copper’s build I used the same description for what I was working on- the shifter setup. I mocked up the shifter and because of the different length of the 4L80E, I was able to hook it up direct. After way too long to get the angles and arm length right, it all works ok. Yes, just ok. The force required to get out of park is way too high. Thinking it might be the shorter shifter and the shorter arm, I grabbed another shifter like I used on Copper. Even with more mechanical advantage, the shift out of park is way too stiff, in my opinion. It’s hard to go from park to reverse- you go into neutral and then go back to reverse. So I pulled out the stops and built another bellcrank, copying Copper. Yep, same result. Unacceptable in my opinion. I called my trans guy, he said the park detent is pretty strong on a 4L80E, and you don’t notice it on the factory setup because of the longer shifter. Ugh. What are my choices now? I narrowed it down to .
Choice 1- B&M Hammer. I like the way it operates, but not much else. Not my style, and I’m guessing I still might have the same issue.
Choice 2- Gennie shifter. It’s a gated shifter , I can get a longer handle for more leverage, but I don’t know how to indicate the gears short of a high dollar add on. Actually, everything’s expensive on that one.
Choice 3- Winters shifter. Built like a tank, affordable, gates stop you in every gear. Just not as “polished” looking. If it had a sliding cover for that slot, I’d be all over it. And it fits in the blown budget, sorta.
Decisions, Decisions.
I had also thought of doing a column shifter- that’s not off the table yet either. So 4 choices?
 

John N

Addicted....Ex-SOA VP
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Rockville
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VA
#3...Winters is a great shifter. You could get the model that you can build into your console And make it a bit flashy.
 
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