Meet Red, my 81 Restomod Build

[Randyzzz]

That looks sweet!!! You might consider putting some baffles behind the dash speakers, they'll help prevent the back wave from cancelling out some of the sound.

I have a set. Just figuring out clearances and the best way to install...

 

[Belizeit]

I have a set. Just figuring out clearances and the best way to install...

Can you share a picture of the baffles before installing please ? Thanks

 

[Randyzzz]

Can you share a picture of the baffles before installing please ? Thanks

Will do.

 

[Randyzzz]

Will do.

 

[Belizeit]

Thanks. Is that like a light foam ?

 

[Randyzzz]

Yes- it’s a lightweight but fairly sturdy foam. Not super stiff but resists tearing.

 

[Jeepskate]

View attachment 93395

Been using those since the late 80's - early 90's. I was a car audio junkie in an earlier chapter of my life.

 

[Randyzzz]

Been using those since the late 80's - early 90's. I was a car audio junkie in an earlier chapter of my life.

You and me both. I had a 78 King Cobra that had more speakers and amps than it did seats! I still remember the Sanyo Bi-amp speakers. One channel for each woofer, one channel for each tweeter set. It took a 4 channel amp to run 2 speakers. But it was loud! I have the hearing damage to prove it!

But my pride and joy stereo was in my 67 Bronco. I had a Panasonic car component system. Yes, it was huge. Hugely cool, that is!

 

[Randyzzz]

Back to the build. While waiting for parts to build all new brake hard lines, I got to work on the grille shell. Had to fit a trans cooler, A/C condenser, and a big radiator in there. Well, I’m 2/3 done. I built a bracket system that the cooler and condenser bolt to. The radiator mounts will get welded to the bottom bracket. Here’s the pics-

 

[Randyzzz]

And lower radiator mounts are done. I used a kit from one of the radiator suppliers and basically ended up chopping it to bits to make my own. I’ll see once it’s in if I need to add a bit of support to the outer corners- I did angle them in a few degrees to account fo flex. Here’s the pics. Here you can see how the condenser and trans cooler mount to the uprights.And with the radiator sitting in its home. I think this should do nicely. Tomorrow- upper mounts if all goes to plan.

 

[Randyzzz]

Hopefully there’s clearance for the fan. If not, it’s back to a mechanical fan, or change to a F-body water pump and drive setup. Cha-Ching...

 

[93_Fummins]

Hopefully there’s clearance for the fan. If not, it’s back to a mechanical fan, or change to a F-body water pump and drive setup. Cha-Ching...

You could probably nip off the threaded portion of the water pump to gain a smidge more clearance, assuming you never intend to run a mechanical fan.

 

[Randyzzz]

You could probably nip off the threaded portion of the water pump to gain a smidge more clearance, assuming you never intend to run a mechanical fan.

I had thought about that. I may cut my old one apart first. I’m not sure if that threaded portion is also the pulley hub that’s pressed on the shaft.

In doing a bit of research just now, it looks like I can run a Corvette pump with 1.5” spacers to get a flatter front on the water pump, instead of that huge bell. This gets me 1/2” more clearance. It also shoots the upper hose out the front, so that May create its own set of issues.

If all else fails, there’s aftermarket drive systems...but I’d rather not spend that huge chunk of change just to clear a fan!

 

[Randyzzz]

Well, I won’t say this sucks, but there’s probably no better adjective. Looks like I need a minimal body lift. I installed a fender to make sure the grille was in the right place, and to verify fan clearance.

Hmmmm......

The fender has a larger gap at the bottom with the top bolt snugged up. I checked frame to body level and they’re within .05 degree. I was using the old body bushings when I set everything up initially, and it’s come back to bite me. It’s not that big a deal really- I had to use a 3/8” spacer on Copper to get everything to clear. So I’m guessing somewhere between 3/8-1/2” should make everything right. This will give me better clearance for the radiator/frame mounts too- they only have 1/8” as it sits. I need to decide if I get a 1” mount kit and trim to fit, or simply add a spacer. The angel on my right shoulder favors the spacer, while the devil on my left shoulder wants to put the 1” body lift in and trade out the tires for some 33x10.50’s.


Also, the grille shell needs to come back about 3/8-1/2” too- and that’s definitely in water pump pulley territory. So I’ll be exploring front drives too.

Here’s pictures-Too wide gap at the bottom- front of fender too high.
And the grille sits too far forward as positioned Stacking of tolerances got me- my minimal clearance before is now gone But she sure is pretty!

 

[Kim Dawson]

Whatever makes it fit. I like using the 1" body lift. But you've got radiator related clearances that that won't fix. Those of us doing the LS swap will be interested in what you do to get the clearance needed at the radiator. Thanks for documenting this so well.

 

[Randyzzz]

Whatever makes it fit. I like using the 1" body lift. But you've got radiator related clearances that that won't fix. Those of us doing the LS swap will be interested in what you do to get the clearance needed at the radiator. Thanks for documenting this so well.

Thanks, Kim. As far as clearance at the radiator, it won’t help much but it will get the bump on the fan motor away from the water pump pulley. Plus I have to move the grille back a bit, so the lift helps there too. Looking back, I could have set the engine back another 3/4” but that wasn’t necessary using a pump driven fan. Even if I went back to the pump driven fan I still need the body lift for body alignment. So at this point there’s only one real question- 1” or 1/2” body lift. 1” would be a new body mount kit, and sell my new poly kit, or 1/2” through UHMW spacers like in Copper.

For the pump clearance it’s either a ‘Vette pump with 1.5” spacers- this gets about 5/8”, or a a complete F-body front drive system which gets 3/4”. First option is $200, second could be up to $1500.

I researched trimming the threaded part of the water pump- that’s a no-go as that’s what holds the pulley on.

 

[Randyzzz]

I think I’m going to start with the 1/2”. If that works, great. If not, then I’ll do the 1”.

 

[ag4ever]

For the pump clearance it’s either a ‘Vette pump with 1.5” spacers- this gets about 5/8”, or a a complete F-body front drive system which gets 3/4”. First option is $200, second could be up to $1500.

$1,300 for 1/8”?

 

[Randyzzz]

$1,300 for 1/8”?

Sounds pretty stupid when you put it that way...$1500 gets you a cool aftermarket setup that’s more for show cars.

I’m sure I could do a junkyard setup for a lot less.

 

[Randyzzz]

Well, 1/2” body lift , ‘Vette water pump, and 1.5” pump spacers in order. I’ll have my answers by the end of next week. Arrgh. I hate waiting!