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My old 1981 SCRAMBLER returns 25 years later

I've always like the half cab look on the seven, it's not a Scrambler, but definitely cool
 
Just added this pic to the first post of the thread. same spot at my dad's house.

what a difference 26 years makes.................the trees are so big


How it was when I had it


9/18/15

 
Got the rest of the bolts in the bulkhead this morning. Then decided I needed a grab handle to close the door. So I put the trim, striker covers, door panels, grab handles, and window cranks on.

 
Started working on bending the aluminum for the rear armor today

plan A....heat and bend around pipe


Plan B...........less heat and bend around pipe
Better, but not good



Plan C..........build a bend fixture like I heard about but never saw.


I heated the aluminum to remove the "temper" (mark it with a sharpie and heat it until it disappears)
put c-clamps on the top pipe and push it down. A press can be used, but this is way more controlled.



And dimensions if anyone wants to try it





And no the 6061 doesn't like to bend even when hot, you'd better have good c-clamps
 
I hope no one minds my opinion here but I am retired from the International Sheet Metal Workers Union after 35 years and I know a little bit about this. Aluminum is milled in different series, 3000 series, 4000 series 5000 series and 6000 series and more but these are the most popular. the lower the series the softer and easier it is to form. The most used series in shop fabrication use has been type 3003 which is very easy to bend or form without worrying about it cracking. You can have different degrees of success all the way up to 5000 series when forming aluminum. 5051 is what we normally consider marine aluminum (and some say aircraft) and it will form fine depending on how sharp a brake(bend) you need to make. If you take 6061 and try to brake it it's probably going to split into two pieces. Maybe twice in my 35 years did I ever heat a piece of 6061 to make a bend. If the 6061 is available to you or even free I can understand using it if it needs forming but if you have to go out and buy it I highly suggest using a lower series aluminum. If I ever decided to armor plate my jeep I would use a 5000 series material, it's still strong enough to take the abuse and yet soft enough to form it. I am in no way questioning anyone's method, just trying to add a little to the topic.
Jbeemer, I admire your ability and by looks of your shop I also believe you know what you're doing.
 
Opinions are always welcome. I would tend to agree on the 5000 series. We mainly have 6000 series in the shop at work, so I only paid for the pieces I used. We anneal and bend the 6000 series flats all the time..............we just don't have anything to bend the plate. Good part is 6000 is easily welded and super tuff.
 
Did a test fit on the drivers side armor.

so far, it's good





And I bent the tubes for the flares
 
I got the bottom stiffener welded and ground

The driver side flare isabout 1/3 welded and the armor is still flat

And the good part, I set it on the scale, 19 lbs
 
only 19 lbs :eek:. I can't believe it. At that rate do the front also. Looks sharp.:rolleyes:
 
Drivers side is all welded and ground.

did another test fit after work.....it stayed flat.........for the most part.

then I drilled the first 2 holes :fingerscrossed:

the rest of the drilling should be easy





waiting on the box of stainless hardware to show up.............I waited till the last minute to order it..........it didn't help, stainless is still expensive.
 
Been busy, but here are a couple updates.

Picked up a Warn 8274, more to come on that later :popcorn:


Rolled into the next digit on the odometer last week :headbang:



And picked up some wheeling tires

39.5x16.5x15 Pitbull Rockers
There are 5 of them and they are on six lug beadlocks, so I'll have to set up some 8 lug beadlocks.
They are a inch taller and have 1/2" wider tread than the Nitto's


If you put them on inside out the six lug wheel fits most of the way on :eek:

 
I also got back to the flare's and fenders.

Started to fit the front fenders.




The bottom will end up a couple inches in front of the tub, and the "excess" will get bent in for a flange to attach the inner fender. And there will be a flare to match the rear.

And it looks like I'm going to loose about 5lbs a side from the fiberglass and rubber flares.
 
The other thing I've been working on to keep my ADD going is the new to me tires.

Got the Pitbulls dismounted and ready for the new wheels.

Ordered 5 new 15"x10" Bart Super Trucker wheels to use for the beadlocks.



They were in the shop for at least 15 minutes before I took a grinder to one of them.


That 15 minutes was checking the caliper clearance


The Beadlocks are ordered from Jeep Armory in Cedar Springs, they should be done any day.
 
Back to the fenders

Tacked the top tube on the drivers side and started some cardboard mockup.

The sharpie lines are the proposed flare line


Gusset on the front will be something like this with holes to match the gussets on the shock mounts
 
Made a little progress on the front fenders last night and tonight after a great weekend in Traverse City with Val and NO KIDS :bacon:

got the gussets tacked in the front


started test fitting the flare tubes with some scrap tube, tape, and clamps.



And got the first piece of the inner fenders test fit
 
Did a little more on the fenders

The main part of the fenders and all welded and ground smooth. And the tube for the flares are welded on, just need to plate the flare.

May have to do a little press work, they started to move quite a bit...........and the flare has a lot of weld.

Then comes paint.





 
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